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The Romeo5XDR – Budget Blasting Red Dot

SIG went from being well known for producing fantastic metal frame pistols to being well known for making everything. This includes rifles, suppressors, and even optics. Today we are looking at their budget-friendly Romeo5 red dot, specifically the Romeo5XDR model. The Romeo5XDR is the most robust and durable Romeo5 that’s outfitted with superior water protection and higher grade shock protection. The DR stands for dual reticle, and the Romeo5 serves up two separate reticles. 

The Romeo5XDR – Dual Reticle Design 

The first is a 2 MOA red dot. It’s straightforward and is the industry standard. The second reticle is a 65 MOA circle with a 2 MOA dot. The dual design allows you to pick and choose your reticle. The 2 MOA is a bit simpler with a less obscure sight picture, and it tends to be kinder on battery life. The 65 MOA reticle is much more versatile and eye-catching at the cost of decreased battery life. 

The 65 MOA circle and dot reticle allow for engaging finding capabilities. At one hundred yards, the 65 MOA ring is the average size of a normal man. If an average-sized man fills the reticle, then he is roughly 100 yards away. If he fills from the bottom of the reticle to the middle dot, then he is 200 yards away. It’s handy but can be a bit tricky to use. 

The 65 MOA ring is also more prominent, more comfortable to see, and faster to find and get on target. The bigger reticle is easier to track between targets and can be used at any range. The 65 MOA reticle is perfect for that fast, close-range shooting, and the smaller 2 MOA dot in the center is better purposed for longer range shooting. The Romeo5XDR is one helluva versatile optic. 

In practice, I can ring steel at 15 yards with blistering speed, and when I fall back to 100 yards, I can do the same with precision and confidence. Both the dot and circle options are crystal clear and extremely crisp. They outperform every other budget red dot I’ve shot with. 

Class and Glass 

The Romeo5XDR presents the user with crystal clear glass with a slight blue tint to it. The blue tint is normal in these optics, and it’s from obscuring. The view through the lens is clear and can be used with a magnifier without any clarity issues. Cheap red dots often look okay as red dots, but troublesome and poorly made glass shows it’s weakness under a magnifier. 

The Romeo5XDR runs off of a single AAA battery and lasts up to 50K hours. I can say after several years of use, and I’m still on the battery that was included with the optic. The optic is equipped with SIG’s MOTAC system. MOTAC stands for motion-activated, and this acts to help preserve the battery for stone heads like me who forget to turn their optic’s off when they put them away. When the optic is left undisturbed for a period of time, it shuts off automatically. 

When the optic senses motion, it activates and returns the last setting the user set. The Romeo5XDR is a very modern choice that goes above and beyond your normal budget red dot. The glass packs some unbeatable features for a budget red dot, and the Romeo5XDR is a true performer, and it does so above and beyond its price tag. 

 

3 home defense firearms that’ll make you prepared like John Wick

You roll to your side to take a quick glimpse of the clock: it’s 3 AM. You’ve been awake for the past 2 hours, trying to go back to sleep. You couldn’t. Something’s off…you can just feel it.

“Ah, it must be paranoia,” you think. When you’re about to close your eyes, you suddenly hear a loud shatter downstairs. You get up. And then, your front door slowly creaks open, bringing a chill down your spine. “Oh shi—” you panicky think before cutting yourself off. You know what this is:

A home invasion.

Your heart starts pounding as you quickly try to find your .30-06 hunting rifle with scope. Beads of sweat roll down your face as your hands begin to shake uncontrollably. You realized that your hunting rifle is downstairs. And then, suddenly out of the shadows, a dark hooded figure emerges. What do you think will happen next?

You’ll either lose your life or your precious valuables. Why? Because you weren’t adequately prepared for a home invasion. How do you prevent that from happening? By getting prepared. And one of the first steps in being prepared is getting yourself a SOLID home defense weapon. That’s why I wrote this article — to show you my top 3 favorite home defense firearms, starting with my first recommendation…

 

  • Remington 870 (Shotgun)

Mitch Barrie on Flickr

 

Pros: Flexible ammunition types, insanely powerful

Cons: Heavier and harder to carry (compared to pistols), requires two hands to shoot, low ammunition capacity (compared to rifles)

Why use a Shotgun for Home Defense?

Because they’re scary as hell. If ANY intruder hears a sound of a shotgun, they’ll most likely bolt for the door… and will never step foot on your property again. But that’s not the only reason you should invest in a shotgun. Shotguns are also extremely versatile. Meaning, there is a wide variety of ammo available like:

  • Slugs
  • Buck Shot
  • Bird Shot

In other words: Shotguns are multi-purpose. They can be used for hunting and target shooting as well as home defense. And that’s not all. Shotguns are incredibly reliable. (More specifically, pump shotguns). They are very easy to use and won’t fail on you — even with minimal maintenance. The best part? Shotguns are pretty darn cheap. In fact, a brand new Remington 870 only costs $300. And if you really look, you could get yourself a used one for less than $150.

Recommended Accessories: 

  • Shotgun Sling: Makes extra ammo easily-accessible.
  • Red Dot Sight: Allows for rapid target acquisition. The FastFire 3 from Burris is SOLID.
  • WeaponLight: Flashlights and lasers are a must for shotguns.

 

  • Glock 23 (Pistol)

WikiMedia Commons

 

Pros: Easy to carry, lightweight (and compact), requires only one hand to shoot

Cons: Low ammunition capacity (compared to rifles)

Why use a Pistol for Home Defense?

The fact is this: Handguns are some of the best firearms for home defense. They’re also my personal favorite. Here’s why… Accessibility. I carry my Glock 23 almost EVERYWHERE I go. It’s small, compact, light and fairly easy to use. That said, you’d be able to move quicker and quieter through your home. Bruce Willis in Die Hard would probably agree with me. Another reason for acquiring a pistol is because they rarely run into jamming issues, easy-to-clean, and just straight up reliable.

Look: Just do yourself a favor and get a handgun (if you don’t have one already). It’ll protect you everywhere — inside AND outside of your home.

Recommended Accessories: 

  • Grip: Upgrade your stock grip with a grip from a reputable manufacturer for an improved grip quality.
  • Light/Laser: Will help with accuracy and seeing in low-light conditions.
  • Holster: A must if you conceal carry. Feel free to read my top 3 essential firearm accessories.

 

 

  • AR-15 (Rifle)

Pixabay

 

Pros: Higher ammunition capacity, powerful, long-distance shots

Cons: Heavier and harder to carry (compared to pistols), requires two hands to operate

Why use a Rifle for Home Defense?

If you want to be a badass like John Wick, use an AR-15. The reason? It’s INSANELY versatile. The AR-15 can be used for home defense, target shooting, and even deer hunting. How is that possible? The AR-15 is chambered in a 5.56 cartridge and could also shoot a .223 — allowing for a flexible platform. And get this: An AR-15 is actually EASIER to shoot than a shotgun or pistol due to the low recoil and accuracy. If that wasn’t enough for you, the AR-15 also holds a larger total capacity of ammunition. In other words: you can easily take on multi-person home invasion.

Let me make it simple: I highly recommend owning an AR-15. It’s just… awesome. I’m not the only person who thinks so. In fact, the AR-15 is the most popular rifle in America.

Recommended Accessories: 

  • Rifle Scope/Red Dot Sight: Read this article on how to choose a rifle scope.
  • Front Hand Grip: Allows for MUCH better grip.
  • Flashlight: Great for low light environments.

Which Firearm Should I buy For Home Defense – Pistol, Rifle Or Shotgun?

It depends on your environment. Want something lightweight and easily accessible? Get a handgun. Live in a rural area and have a lot of distance? Invest in a rifle. However, if you live in a more densely-packed area, go with a shotgun. Also, don’t forget to check your local laws to see which firearm is legal. But most importantly: whatever firearm you choose, make sure to commit to training and practice. As long as you head to the gun range a couple of times per year, you should be golden. With that said…

Now Its Your Turn

These are my top 3 favorite firearms for home defense. Sure, there are hundreds of guns out there you can choose from but these were my top 3 favorites. That said, I’d like to hear from you:  What firearm do you use (or plan on using) for home defense? Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

 

Author Bio:

Richard Douglas is a scopes expert with over 10 years of hands-on experience and has been featured on Burris Optics, War History Online and more. No wonder his friends call him the “James Bond of Scopes.” Richard now spends most of his time reviewing scopes and sharing his exclusive findings on his blog, Scopes Field.

 

Feature image courtesy of Pixabay

What’s the best Home-Defense carbine for the new gun owner?

Let’s face it, there are more than enough articles detailing rifle setup or reviews of home defense carbines With the ever-growing list of friends, family, and acquaintances that have little to no shooting experience, they tend to ask the same typical questions:

“What’s the best rifle I can buy?”

“Can’t I just go cheap?”

“I know what you’re saying, but I really like that tiny Sig P290. Can’t I just go with that? A rifle seems like a bit much”

“Can’t I just build it? It looks easy on YouTube.”

“Can you show me how to set it up?”

“I don’t know about LMT, I’ve heard Rock Rivers’ are just as good on this blog.”

I’ve seen varying reactions from the staff at your average gun shop. Some people are helpful, some get annoyed, others exploit a new buyer for the sake of an easy sale, and the absolute worst is the staff member who seizes the opportunity to belittle you. While some folks come to me lacking maturity in their line of questioning, I always provide the best and simplest advice I can give. There’s nothing to lose here, and if someone decides to bet their life on your recommendation, I really hope you gave them a real answer based upon a combination of real experience and some research. This article is my recommendation to a new buyer interested in protecting their home. With that, I’m keeping much of the information in this article basic.

When writing this article, I chose two carbine length multipurpose rifles, tailored slightly towards close quarters battle (CQB). The first question is “why carbine length? Don’t we have better options with respect to short barreled rifles (SBR) and AR pistols?” Yes, there are better options, but I have no desire to deal with SBR laws when traveling across state lines. I have even less of a desire to deal with how the BATF chooses to interpret the legality of an AR pistol on any random day of the week. Furthermore, a 16-inch barreled AR-15 will handle a close quarters fight just fine. You may be hesitant as a new shooter to approach the concept of an AR-15 style rifle over a pistol, so let’s assess the “why” — My main driving factors for choosing an AR-15 style rifle are: high-capacity, maneuverability, dependability, and accuracy.

Now, let’s get into the weapons. I chose two different models from two different manufacturers.

Rifle1: Daniel Defense M4 V11 in 5.56mm with 16inch barrel (Pictured on Top)

Rifle2: BCM RECCE 16 in 5.56mm with 16inch barrel (Pictured Below)

Here’s why I chose these manufacturers, quality parts, quality labor, quality control. Take whatever stance you want, but Daniel Defense and Bravo Company Manufacturing are known for this. Am I saying you’ll never get a bad gun off the line? Nope. I’m saying that you are far more likely to get a dependable weapon out of the box. If there is a defect, both companies take their customer service seriously, and will make it right.

All those points aside, if you decide to make a rifle your duty or home protection weapon, and it has yet to be fired, you’re a moron. Never bet on an unproven piece of life saving gear. Do not get caught up in the “it’s mil spec so it’s basically the same” mindset. That “mil spec means it’s good to go” argument is the equivalent of saying, “to build a house all you need is a roof.” The extra steps these companies take before shipping a weapon are leaps and bounds above other manufacturers, and that is why I chose them.

Now, there are plenty of other manufacturers that make quality AR platforms such as LMT, Colt, Triarc Systems, LWRC, LaRue Tactical, Knights Armament Co, etc. and they are top notch. Even during my service in the military I bet my life on Colt for years, so please do not think I am stating these other manufacturers are unworthy for duty or home defense. On the other hand, if you are considering building a rifle (I recommend that for more experienced individuals), do not make your first home defense rifle a build. I’ve seen it all when it comes to builds. Build your first and make sure it runs — Clint Smith would agree with me. With that noted, let’s move on.

Weapons System Overview:

Rifle1: Daniel Defense M4 V11 in 5.56mm.

Barrel- Cold Hammer Forged, government profile 1:7 twist, Chrome Moly Vanadium Steel

Rail- Keymod 15inch

Gas system- Mid-Length

Gas block- Low profile pinned

Muzzle Device- Daniel Defense Flash Suppressor

Rifle2: BCM RECCE 16 in 5.56mm.

Barrel- Cold Hammer Forged, government profile 1:7 twist, MIL-B-11595E Chrome Moly Steel

Rail- Keymod 15inch

Gas system- Mid-Length

Gas block- Low profile dimpled with set screws

Muzzle Device- BCM Mod 0 Compensator

I can get into further detail, but I’m not a damn brochure, look the rest up yourself.

The barrel- Both rifles are government profile and cold hammer forged, a solid decision with respect to durability. There are some who would urge you to seek lightweight barrels, but I like versatility. There are also days where training is high round count and long in duration; I have no interest in sacrificing accuracy, or increasing the level of heat on my handguard if that can be mitigated with a slightly heavier barrel. In fact, I am also a big fan of the heavier SOCOM profile barrels as they handle a higher volume of fire. Bottom line, I like a workhorse that I can depend on.

Moving onto gas systems- I’m a pretty big proponent of the mid-length gas system on a 16 inch barrel. It allows greater dwell time and creates a far smoother recoil impulse than a carbine length gas system. During training sessions, I believe you’ll find recoil management a tad more manageable than a “snappy” carbine length system during a rapid string of fire.

Gas blocks- Pinned or dimpled with set screws? Honestly, if done right it doesn’t matter. However, if done wrong the weapon won’t run. This is an area where a quality manufacturer is important. Over the years, I have had plenty of friends shoot their personal weapons in a course side by side with me, and some lesser manufacturers have been known to cut corners in this area. I’ve seen some of those guns run like sewing machines, then one day, not function…. All due to poor gas block installation or cheap materials.

Muzzle device- The muzzle device in both systems work just fine, but they are nothing to write home about. The Daniel Defense Flash suppressor works as intended, it dissipates muzzle flash, and helps direct recoil where it needs to go. The BCM Mod 0 Compensator does neither task very well. It does an okay job of flash suppression, and an okay job of compensation. If you are thinking of installing a large muzzle brake on your home protection weapon to aid in recoil management, don’t. The muzzle flash, combined with the deafening noise will be a less than pleasant experience should you have to fight with your rifle indoors.

Regarding Rails- both work fine, Keymod or MLOK, I really don’t care. It does not impact my ability to shoot well, and the systems are durable. If I were to pick from the two manufacturers, I prefer the BCM rail system. It’s lighter, and the lockup is simplistic but tough. For you gear-nazis, MLOK accessories will have greater longevity with respect to accessory availability, and it is a more durable system than keymod.

Last, but not least, Bolt Carrier Groups (BCGs)- There’s a ton of options out there, so I’ll say it like this, get yourself a full auto BCG. The AR-15 was designed to run with the full auto BCG. There are better options, but a Mil-spec, carpenter 158 steel, high pressure tested, magnetic particle inspected, heat treated and shot peened, with properly torqued and staked gas key screws are essential to reliable operation. The Daniel Defense and BCM BCGs are a fantastic example of a perfectly executed Mil-spec BCG; however, the BCM BCG has become the “gold standard” throughout the shooting community. You would not be wrong with either choice.

Rifle Setups:

Rifle1- Daniel Defense M4 V11 (Pictured on Top)

Optic- EOTECH EXPS 3-2 (Tan)

Iron Sights- Daniel Defense fixed iron sights

Foregrip- Strike Industries SI LINK angled foregrip

Light Source- Arisaka Defense 300 series with Surefire SR07 pressure switch

Buttstock- BCM Gunfighter SOPMOD Stock

Other- Magpul PMAG Coupler

 

Rifle2: BCM RECCE 16 (Pictured Below)

Optic- Trijicon MRO

Iron Sights- Daniel Defense fixed iron sights

Foregrip- Strike Industries SI LINK angled foregrip

Light Source- Arisaka Defense 300 series with Surefire SR07 pressure switch

Buttstock- BCM Gunfighter SOPMOD Stock

Other- Magpul PMAG Coupler

Kit for your setup are where some folks tend to skimp once they purchase a quality rifle, sometimes…. They skimp even if their rifle is garbage. But here’s the takeaway, positive target ID, a fast-reliable optic, and a weapon that feels instinctive to operate are just as important. If it looks cool, but works sometimes, or is not user-friendly, move on.

Optics: The EOTECH EXPS series- are great close quarters optics, practically parallax free (not totally), large window that promotes situational awareness, and ideal donut style reticle make it a force to be reckoned with. Now, I am fully prepared for all my EOTECH haters to crawl out from the rock they are hiding under screaming things like “thermal drift!” In my experience, all the EXPS models I’ve run work great. Even the one I used during my time in Special Operations through parachuting, climbing, rucking, FAST roping, and extended shooting sessions during extreme cold weather (the polar vortex of 2015), I’ve had no issues. My biggest complaint is battery life, 1000 Hours. You do not want to be in a position where you go to turn on your optic in the middle of the night only to see a big fat nothing. I always play it safe and change my batteries every 3 months.

Moving on to the Trijicon MRO- the thing is bomb proof, parallax is a bit rough on this optic, but I haven’t found that to be an issue. In stark contrast, the battery life is amazing at a whopping 5 years in constant on. What is very hard to beat, is the price. If you wait for an online sale, you can roll out the door with one for approximately $375.

Iron sights- It’s like this, yea, it’s more money to spend; on the other hand, batteries and electronics fail. Iron sights are a constant you can count on, so buy them. Light Source- Arisaka Defense makes solid kit, and the 300 series are cost effective and reliable. They are also relatively small, light-weight, and take up very little real-estate on your rail system. Add a surefire pressure switch and you’re in business.

Flashlights are a non-negotiable item, if you can’t identify what’s in front of you, you are combat ineffective. BCM Gunfighter SOPMOD stock- Highly durable (I’ve drop tested their stocks before at 20+FT…. they hold up), with a fantastic cheek-weld. The BCM SOPMOD stock makes reflexive shooting just a tad more instinctive. Strike Industries Angled foregrip- I just like them, no other reason, find what works for you. Their slim profile allows me to get a solid grip around the rail system, and the forward notch aids the shooter in keeping the rifle pinned to your shoulder with ease. Lastly, the Magpul PMAG coupler- “What’s better than one thirty round magazine?” Two thirty round magazines mounted side-by-side. I can’t predict the future, but 60 rounds of 5.56mm in your home defense rifle should be more than enough to end most engagements. I’m not saying 60 rounds are all you’ll ever need, but I am saying that the odds are in your favor.

Lastly, all the top-notch gear in the world does not make an effective combat shooter. I know plenty of businessmen that own expensive firearms they don’t know how to run. If you plan to invest in a home defense weapon, then plan to invest regular money in constant training. You owe it to everyone as a responsible gun owner, you owe it to your family, the innocent neighbors across the street, and most of all, yourself. Even if you’re not a combat shooter, you need to train like one. The whole reason you are making this purchase is if something “might” happen. Well, if something “might” happen, then training is the other 50% percent of that dangerous hypothetical.

 About the Author: Jonathan Fietkau is a former SOTACC from 1st Battalion, 5th Special Forces Group, and a graduate of the Special Forces Advanced Urban Combat Course (SFAUCC). He is a combat veteran of Iraq, and other theaters of operation, with previous service in the 101st and 82nd Airborne Divisions.

How To Choose A Rifle Scope: The only guide you’ll need to read

Finding the right scope is like running through a maze, you don’t know WHERE you’re going. Couple that with the countless landmines of confusing technical jargon, specs, acronyms — and you might be in the maze for LIFE.

Not good.

That’s why I wrote this article — to help serve as a guide through the scope maze. In fact: This will be the LAST guide you’ll ever have to read to find the right scope…for YOU.

Let’s dig in!

Magnification

This is the part 99% of people screw up on. They either buy TOO much magnification or too little — ESPECIALLY when buying the best AR-15 rifle scope. Rest assured — you won’t make that mistake after reading this. So, let’s first start off by defining magnification.

Magnification is how much closer you can see the target than a naked eye.

For example, if the magnification is 2X that means you can see TWO TIMES closer than the naked eye. Easy enough?

So…

How Do You Find Magnification?

It’s usually the first number (or range of numbers) on a scope. For example: if a scope says 3×32… then the first number (‘3’) is the magnification. However, if it says 2-7×32… then the first range of numbers (2-7) is the magnification. In other words: you can choose a magnification between 2-7X. Because of this, there are actually two scope types:

  • Fixed power scope
  • Variable power scope.

Fixed power scope means there’s only 1 magnification (Ex: 3X), while variable allows you to choose from a range of magnifications (Ex: 2-7X).

Easy, right? But…which should you choose?

Fixed Power vs Variable Power

That depends on your use. If you require more than one magnification, then go for the variable. However, fixed power scopes are faster, higher quality, and cost less. So, keep that in mind when you’re choosing your scope. Don’t worry about making a decision now — we’ll touch on that in just a bit. But for now, let’s answer the lingering question that we left unanswered:

How Much Magnification Do You Need?

This is HIGHLY dependent on your rifle usage. If you use your rifle primarily for small game or homestead defense (>100 yards), then go for a magnification between 1 – 4x. Pro Tip: Go for a fixed power scope. It’ll make your short-range encounters faster.

However, if you use your rifle primarily for hunting large game in forests or mountains (>200 yards), then go for a magnification between 5 – 8x. Or, if you’re a sniper that hunts in fields or deserts (200+ yards), then go for a magnification between 9 – 12x. Simple enough, right? Now that you have your magnification, the next thing to find is the right…

Objective Lens

The objective lens is the lens at the end of the scope. The size of the objective lens is usually found at the END of the numbers (or after the x). For example: 3x32 means it has a 32mm objective lens. What about if it’s a variable scope? Same thing.

For example: 2-7x35 means it has a 35mm objective lens.

Understood? Cool.  So…

WHY Is Objective Lens Important?

In layman’s terms: The more objective lens you have, the clearer and brighter your scope will look. However, it does come at a costly price. Larger objective lenses mean smaller scope rings, a heavier scope, and it may even give away your position due to the reflection of sunlight off the lens. So be careful.

With that said…

How Much Objective Lens Do You Need?

If you hunt in close range (>100 yards) with low recoil, go for 28mm & under.

If you hunt in medium to long range (150+ yards) with medium recoil, go for 30-44mm. (Also great for low-light hunters.)

And finally, if you’re solely a long range shooter, then go for 50mm & up objective lens.

With your magnification and objective lens in hand, now it’s time to talk…

Rifle Scope Lens Coatings

This is usually the second feature advertised. It may come packaged in fancy names, however ALL rifle coats fall under one of these criteria:

  1. Coated: They cover at least one surface of the scope in one layer. The budget man’s package.
  2. Fully-Coated: They cover ALL external glass surfaces in a single layer. The standard package.
  3. Multicoated: They cover at least one surface in several layers. The upgraded package.
  4. Fully Multicoated: They pamper ALL your scope’s external glass surfaces in several layers. The luxury package.

Which Rifle Coat Should You Choose?

Most scopes today are fully multi-coated. In fact: Over 90% of the scopes I’ve reviewed on my site so far are fully multi-coated. And if it’s not fully multi-coated, don’t sweat it — coats don’t make up for poor glass quality. However, something you DO have to sweat is…

Scope Reticles

The reticle is the crosshair (or the aiming point) you see. This will either make shooting easier or harder.

Here’s the best reticle to choose based on your use:

Duplex

If you’re a hunter or target shooter, go for a Duplex. It’s the simplest and fastest reticle to use.

Mildot

If what you’re shooting is a life and death situation (like the Military), go for a Mildot. It helps estimate target’s distance.

BDC

This is for the long-range shooter. Sure, it takes longer to use, however it helps adjust for bullet drop. Insanely useful for long distance shots.

But which to choose? If you hypothetically put a gun to my head (please don’t) and said: “Choose a reticle or die!” I’d honestly go for the Duplex. It’s easy, fast, and it plain up WORKS. But don’t take my word for it. Instead, test all these reticles and see which one you like best. The best reticle is the one YOU prefer.

With that said, it’s time to talk…

Focal Planes

This is the most common scope question I get asked: “Should I choose the First Focal Plane or Second Focal Plane?”

Here’s the straight up answer: go for second focal plane. Here’s why: For most general situations, the second focal plane works better. It’s cheaper and doesn’t obscure your view while the first focal plane does. That said, should you ever go with first focal plane? In only one condition: If you’re a long-range shooter (10X+ magnification).

The reason? It’s more accurate as the reticle size adjusts as you move up in magnification. Yet for most general situations, go for a second focal plane. It won’t disappoint. Once you’ve got your focal plane selected, it’s now time to discuss adjustment systems…

Minute of Angle (MOA) vs Milradian (MRAD)

To be completely honest, this part doesn’t matter much, but I’ll cover it anyway. So, which adjustment system is better: MOA vs MRAD? The straight up answer? Neither.

In fact, they operate interchangeably like miles per hour and kilometers per hour. Just choose an adjustment system your hunting buddies use. If you don’t know what your buddies use, just opt-in for MOA. It’s easier and more popular. Simple.

Let’s move onto…

Parallax

Parallax is bad. It happens when your scope’s reticle kind of bobs around with your head movement. Not good. If left unchecked, it can lead to bluriness, fuzziness, and missed shots. You want as LITTLE of parallax as possible for maximum accuracy.

The good news? There’s a way to…

Kill Parallax

This is dependent on the scope (and cheekweld). Scopes usually correct parallax in one of three ways:

  1. Factory-Set. Parallax adjustment is built-in the scope by the manufacturer. This will be advertised.
  2. Adjustable Objective (AO). This corrects parallax through a ring on the objective lens.
  3. Third Turret. Move this knob to correct the parallax.

With that said, which option is best? They all do their job. Obviously the factory-set will be the easiest, but don’t worry about it too much. Only look at parallax adjustment as a tiebreaker between scopes. Speaking of tiebreakers, there’s one core feature that breaks all ties…

Windage and Elevation Turrets

This is by FAR the most important part. Actually, if these knobs (turrets) don’t work, you WON’T be able to zero your scope properly. In other words: You won’t be able to shoot JACK–So it matters. Here’s what you’ve got to know about windage and elevation:

First, make sure the turrets produce a loud “click” sound when they adjust. That way you know when you’ve adjusted. This is usually mentioned in the reviews.

Second, make sure the turrets are reliable. Don’t listen to the advertisers. Instead, read what people say about the turrets’ reliability.

Once you’ve done that, you’ll have found reliable windage and elevation turrets. Now, it’s time for the last important feature…

Eye Relief 

Do this part wrong and you’ll look like Mad Eye Moody from Harry Potter. Do you want to look like him? I hope not.  (If you do, you’ve got bigger problems than scopes).

Here’s how to save your eye (and comfort) from pain with proper eye relief. Let’s start off by defining eye relief: Eye relief is the distance between your eye and the lens you look through (ocular lens). If your weapon is higher recoil, you’ll need more eye relief. And vice versa for lower recoil.

In short: Aim for at least 3.5 – 4 inches of solid eye relief. Simple enough. With that, you now know EXACTLY what makes a good scope. But the million dollar question remains…

How Much Should You Spend On A Scope?

Here’s the ugly truth: It depends. You can be spending anywhere from $50 up to $1,000+. There’s really no ‘optimal’ amount to spend on a scope. Why? It’s HIGHLY dependent on your rifle, caliber, and usage. But you now know what makes the very best scope. The next part is easy:

Find The Scope That Calls Out To You 

Yes, it’s true… you’re going to have to do a BIT of Googling before finding the right scope for you. That’s part of the process. Alternatively, if you’re having trouble finding the right scope for your rifle, visit my site: Scopes Field.

I’ve actually reviewed (and hand-tested) scopes for almost EVERY major rifle and calibers (like the Mini 14). So if you’re having problems finding a good rifle scope, then feel free to stop by for some tips.

And there you go! You’re now fully armed with EVERYTHING you need to know about choosing a rifle scope. Now go out there and buy yourself a great scope!

 

Feature image: U.S. Marine Corps photo by Lance Cpl. Alexis B. Betances

 

Author Bio:

Richard Douglas is a scopes expert with over 10 years of hands-on experience and has been featured on Burris Optics, War History Online and more. No wonder his friends call him the “James Bond of Scopes.” Richard now spends most of his time reviewing scopes and sharing his exclusive findings on his blog, Scopes Field.

Choosing between the AR-15 and the AK-47

The debate between AK-47s and AR-15s is perhaps a bit more civil than the digital spats between the likes of Glock fanboys and 1911 historians in your Facebook newsfeed, but there are certainly some similarities. Arguments about stopping power, reliability, and accuracy get touted about by both sides in such generalized and exaggerated ways that one could be forgiven for thinking no AK platform in the world has ever malfunctioned and every AR-15 is a sniper rifle. Of course, the fact of the matter is, both platforms are made by a variety of manufacturers and in a variety of different set ups; some more reliable, more accurate, or more affordable than others.

I’ve gone on record in the past as saying the warring factions of the firearm world, like the automotive one, miss the forest for the trees when ranting at one another in forums and on Twitter. There are lots of great, budget friendly 1911 platforms available out there, and there are lots of solid shooting Glocks out there too. There’s nothing wrong with having a preference, but in our modern upvote/downvote culture, we seem to think liking one thing means having to hate the other… as though the solid reliability of your Glock in some way diminishes the accuracy of its competition in the 1911 camp. In truth, they can both be great guns, and if you’re not able to see that… you may be being guided by the team dynamic, rather than the facts.

I bought my AR-15 years ago at Wal-Mart along with a six pack of beer and a few hundred rounds of ammunition. At the time, it bore a striking resemblance the rifle my father carried in Vietnam, but there was no denying the familiar comfort that set in as a slung it over my shoulder and found my hands settling on the pistol grip in the same way I spent so many hours standing around in uniform. It was like visiting my old home town and finding everything just where it had been.

To this day, I still get that same sense of coming home when I hang that rifle over my shoulders. It’s changed a bit since that day years ago, and now looks and acts a lot more like the rifle Uncle Sam loaned me. Each time I remove it from the safe and do my usual tinkering or maintenance, I feel a connection to a younger me – one that saw a rifle as a companion as much as a tool.

Still seems like a totally normal way to spend an afternoon to me.

My AK-47, however, was the product of a chance meeting and a good deal. I had fired a few AK-47 platforms before, but not extensively, and in contrast to the AR I bought years ago, it was my unfamiliarity, rather than history with the platform, that prompted me to buy it. I looked forward to the challenge of learning how it functions, how to care for it, and of course, how to mess with it until it was uniquely my own. A new project, I told myself, and nothing more.

I was wrong. I love the damn thing.

While I left to serve in the Marine Corps, my older brother continued working in racing, eventually finding himself behind the wheel in a number of races before starting his own business. His budgets are bigger and interests are different, but his approach to cars is very much like my approach to guns: tailor each to a purpose, and you could always use one more. I spent some time driving and then shooting with him recently, and I realized that the AK and AR platforms are similar to two of his cars: the Dodge Charger Hellcat and the Dodge Viper SRT-10.

At first glance, I don’t see why you’d need both. At 505 and 707 horsepower respectively, they’re both scary fast, plenty loud, draw a crowd and rarely turn up on the losing side of a race. To the uninitiated, one certainly seems enough… but when you look more closely, you see that each is designed for variations within that “go fast” purpose. The Viper will tear the Hellcat to pieces in the twisties, the Hellcat will roar to victory in a drag race.

Cars: a much more expensive hobby.

It’s all about picking the right tool for the job, but if the job is just going out to have some fun, it’s all about picking the one that best suits your preferences.

My AR-15 feels like a precision weapon. It’s crisp, light enough, it talks to me through its behavior and, if I’m honest, occasionally gets in moods. The rifle exudes the confidence we’ve developed together: I know I can hit a target at 500 yards with iron sights with my AR because I’ve done it plenty of times. It’s hard not to develop an attachment to something like that.

In contrast to the AR, my American made RAS-47 feels like a tractor. It clunks and clinks as it releases rounds with little more recoil, but a noticeable difference in tone from the barrel, as it’s simple mechanics lumber away inside the pressed steel body. When I run and gun with the AR, I feel like a precision instrument. When I do the same with the AK, I feel like I’m throwing hammers at the target – and I freakin’ love it.

These two rifles, while similar in purpose, vary widely when it comes to execution. The AR, like a Viper, gives you a sense of confidence and poise. The AK, like a Hellcat, gives you this sense of primordial power: like that concrete wall doesn’t mean shit to me, I’ll just go straight through it.

One could argue that there are distinct advantages to each platform, and by and large, there are – but with so much variety on the market, your reliability and accuracy (often the two biggest talking points involved in this debate) are really just a matter of your budget. Both platforms are capable of being incredibly accurate as well as reliable.

Picking a favorite, then, really comes down to shooter’s preference. Some will be drawn to the comfort of the familiar, others will succumb to the allure of simplicity and cheap ammo… but the fact of the matter is, neither is a bad choice.

My recommendation? Get them both if you can. You never know when you might be in the mood to throw some hammers..

 

Images courtesy of the author

What the Hell is the Driveway Special AR?

Recently, if you follow the #IGMilitia hashtag or really any of the gun tags, you may have started seeing the hashtag “#DrivewaySpecial.” If you are like me this raised your curiosity, so I dove into it. The Driveway Special is a very specific AR 15 build. I found a short video by Ash Hess, a retired US Army Senior NCO, Knight Armament employee, and a Pro Shooter. He’s also a regular on my favorite Gun Podcast, “the ModCast” by Primary and Secondary. It was on their podcast the Driveway Special was more or less invented. Like the Roland Special, the Driveway Special is a very specific type of gun with a specific purpose.

The Driveway Special is designed to be the rifle you grab and run down the end of the driveway to meet the threat. This could be a civil war, an alien invasion, or even an active shooter event like the Sutherland Springs shooting. A man literally grabbed his AR and ran down his driveway. A Driveway Special is a tool designed for whatever is coming. It’s designed to be a grab and go gun that will last you a near lifetime and that’s a big reason why it’s such a specific type of gun with specific parts. It’s also designed to be versatile and for a variety of purposes.

Photo By Ash Hess

This includes up close and personal shooting, as well as moderate to even slightly extended ranges. It needs to be able to clear rooms and fire across the street and down an alley. That’s a tough combo, but let’s look at what Mr. Hess has prescribed for a Driveway Special.

The Driveway Special – Broken Down

The most important part of the gun is the upper. To be a true Driveway Special needs to be a Knight Armament upper receiver with an 11.5-inch barrel, something like the SR 15 CQB Mod 2 with the MLOK system if you want to be modern. The SR 16 is also an awesome option, but those can be harder to find. The reason is because Knights makes absolutely fantastic guns and parts for guns. The Knight’s barrels and bolts are seeing 20,000 rounds before they fail. The Driveway Special is a go to war gun in a situation where you aren’t attached to a massive logistics apparatus. According to Ash, the gun should last your whole life, and even into your children’s life.

11.5 inches is a sweet spot in many ways. It works well for those standard urban engagement distances. It’s more comfortable than short barrels in terms of concussion and flash, but its also easier to utilize in close quarter’s use. Mr. Hess has reached out to 600 yards with one, though he even says the ballistics aren’t great at that range.

The gun can be an SBR or a Pistol with a brace. Lots of braces are out there and I’d stick with either a Gear Head Works V2 or an SBA3 brace. Both are adjustable, modern, and well made. If you go SBR any carbine stock will work, that’s personal preference.

What About the Rest of It?

I mean if you are going with a KAC upper there is no excuse to go with a cheap lower, but Mr. Hess has no exact recommendation for a lower. A quality lower will likely give you longer lasting performance. A better finish, as well as more in spec holes and slots. The lower could even be something you make with an 80 lower jig and some imagination, but you better be good at it.

You’ll also want quality internals, and a LAW folding adapter is also suggested. This allows you to fold the stock on the rifle, however, with a folded stock it will not be functional without a special bolt. This is suggested, but not a requirement.

Photo by Ash Hess

The optic will be a low powered variable optic or an LPVO. Preferably in the 1 to 6 range. This gives you a ton of versatility. The LPVO gives you both close and long-range performance, plus the reticle will be etched. An etched reticle doesn’t need illumination. Should things go wrong or the batteries die, the etched reticle is still effective and efficient.

Next, you’ll need a light. The particular model doesn’t matter, but you want a quality light. Streamlight and Surefire are the two big dogs in the light world. A white weapon light is a must-have when it comes to fighting rifles. You need to be able to see to hit your target should lights get low.

Photo by Ash Hess

Additionally, a suppressor is a good tool to have if you can. It will just reduce your sound signature but will reduce flash and even recoil from the short 11.5-inch barrel. If a suppressor isn’t possible then a good flash hider, or even a linear comp may be a solid choice to reduce flash and make it easy for you to shoot hard and fast.

The Driveway Special is an interesting idea. It’s a go to war gun that will last the entirety of that war, or alien invasion, or zombie apocalypse. Ash Hess, and the Primary and Secondary crew know their stuff and this is just one more interesting concept they’ve put out. Let us know what you think below.

All Photos Provided by Ash Hess and used with Permission. 

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