Rifle

The Maxim Defense CQB Stock: Short and Sweet

The Maxim Defense CQB Stock is a strong, comfortable, durable and compact stock that is made for real-world use. The Maxim CQB Stock weighs in at just 18.59 oz and has a housing made of 7075 Aluminum Alloy where they’ve smartly placed QD mounts. When closed, the stock measures just 5.375″ and extends out to a full 10″, the same as a extended carbine stock.. It has two additional positions at 6.875″ and 8.375″.

You can set-up the stock with a myriad of buffer options to fit your rifle and tune it in. The stock is available in black and FDE.

The Maxim Defense CQB Stock isn’t built to be a safe queen, it’s made for real-world use. With the 4 available extension positions, you can dial in the stock for your body and function.

Installation was easier than expected. Just be sure to not launch your detent and spring for the rear take-down pin when you disassemble!

Once together, I was amazed by the compact size of this unit and the comfort of the adjustment points. I’m a tall fella at 6’6″ with gorilla arms and the Maxim Defense CQB Stock still adjusted out to fit me.

At the range, I had mentally prepared myself for failures on my short barrel suppressed work rifle using the generic buffer and spring and assumed I would have to contact Maxim for different variations of their product to dial it in. I was pleasantly surprised with it, not a single failure after about 200 rounds through it. Obviously it’s going to need some more put down range to put me at ease but I’m on the range next week for rifle training so we’ll push it then. The hex patterned and textured butt plate kept the stock welded in place while ringing my CTS Steel plates.

Overall opinion of this piece of equipment is that it is strong, quality craftsmanship that makes my rifle a better trunk monkey. I’m able to stow it in more compact spaces, deploy in the confines of the front seat of a patrol vehicle without smacking a windshield, and manipulate the rifle in the close quarter confines of the trashiest trailer house. Coupled with the Spikes Tactical Compressor upper, I’ll hopefully still be able to hear if I ever have to use it in the field without my hearing protection on.

Speaking of hearing protection – if you’re in a position to affect change within your agency, work towards getting suppressors on all department rifles. One incident in a confined space with the patrol rifle and you’re looking at a high likelihood of permanent hearing loss.

MSRP for the Maxim Defense CQB Stock is $395.00. Maxim Defense Industries offers a 30-day return policy.

If you’re looking for pistol or rifle training in SW Washington, come join us at Willapa Firearms Training.

Suppressing the AR-15: The Good and Bad

I pulled the trigger on my MK18 with a surefire suppressor mounted and looked back at Jason, an active duty military police officer, “That’s actually still kind of loud” he exclaimed while replacing his Peltor headset onto his ears. And it was. An AR-15 chambered in 5.56 is never particularly quiet due to a variety of factors. However, if you are considering a suppressor for your AR-15 we should be candid about what it entails and what to look for.

There are three main sound sources made by an AR-15 when a round is discharged; the muzzle blast, the sound of the supersonic slug breaking the sound barrier and the mechanical noise of the weapon cycling after each shot. A suppressor aims to quiet the sound of the muzzle blast by trapping the expanding gasses from the end of the muzzle and allowing them to cool and decelerate in a series of chambers. In this way, the decibel level is reduced. However, regardless of this the 5.56×45 is a loud round even when suppressed because the round is breaking the sound barrier which creates a sonic boom.

So how quiet can you expect your AR-15 to be with a suppressor? It’s a hard question to answer and depends on barrel length, ammunition and the suppressor being used. In general, a 16 inch AR-15 firing standard M193 produces a decibel level of around 167 dB give or take depending on environmental conditions. Averaging out a couple of the leading suppressors in the industry you see an average noise level of around 136 db with a suppressor attached. Which is a significant reduction. For comparison’s sake an unsuppressed 22lr rifle typically falls in the 130 dB range.

An AR-15 can be made quieter by firing sub-sonic ammunition however, the AR-15 will not cycle properly. There are several great calibers out there available for the AR-15 platform that allows the use of sub-sonic ammunition along with reliable functioning. Many choose to stick with 5.56×45 for ammo availability, familiarity and commonality among several other weapons that they may own. For the purpose of this article, we will primarily concern ourselves with suppressing the AR-15 in 5.56.

Chasing Those Decibels

Some try to buy suppressors based soley on the decibel level produced. However, there are several other things to consider when it comes to sound. Tone is the relative pitch and strength of the sound that the suppressor produces. I’ve found that tone can make a suppressor with a higher decibel level sound quieter. The Surefire SOCOM556 RC gives on average a decibel level of 139 dB. This is louder than many competitors on the market however I’ve found the tone to be deep and pleasing. If you have the chance listen to different suppressors at local matches or shoots. If this is not possible, try searching on many of the dedicated suppressor forums that dot the internet. Many people will be able to comment on the tone of a certain suppressor and whether they like it or not. Understand that it is the internet however.

Daniel Defense MK18 with Surefire SOCOM556-RC suppressor mounted.

Length and Weight

Size matters. Add a 6-inch suppressor to the end of your 16-inch barrel and you now have a 20 inch plus barrel. Although these suppressors typically weigh in at 1 pound, it is a pound at the very end of your rifle and that weight will quickly add up. The shorter your suppressor becomes the less effective it becomes at sound suppression. The lighter it becomes the less it can handle heat. There are trade-offs to made everywhere. You need to determine what type of shooting you’re going to be doing and precisely what you need from your suppressor.

Gas blowback

A suppressor traps a lot of gas. It also increases the dwell time at your gas port. All of this leads to an excess amount of gas coming your way and exiting around the charging handle to sting your eyes. There are several fixes available. An adjustable gas block will allow you to adjust the amount of gas being tapped off from the barrel thus eliminating much of the excess gas. Gemtech makes a suppressed bolt carrier group which can vent the excess gas out the side of the carrier. Finally, there is charging handles that are made to deal with excess gas from suppressors or conversely you can use Permatex RTV (a silicon sealant) to close the gap between the charging handle and the upper receiver to disallow the excess gas from reaching your face. Some suppressor manufacturers add an expansion chamber or an internal venting system to help reduce back pressure and when used in combination with the above products can make for a pleasurable shooting experience.

Them suppressors get hot

Each successive shot is going to raise the temperature of the suppressor fairly quickly. There are a variety of factors that come into play but some information puts that number at around 7-10 degrees Fahrenheit each round fired. A 30 round magazine would then increase the temperature by over 240 degrees Fahrenheit. Suppressors can get hot enough during a course of fire that if you transition to your sidearm and let your rifle hang down and it touches your pants, it could burn a hole straight through them. Many companies tell you to limit your strings of fire. If my memory serves me correct several different suppressor manuals state that strings of fire of over 90 rounds should not be attempted. If you use a suppressor, I’d recommend a good pair of heat resistant gloves. If your aim is long-range shooting be aware that as the suppressor gets hot those waves of heat will rise and could distort the view of your target through the optic. This can be mitigated to some extent by the use of a suppressor cover.

A good mount is vital. Also, automotive anti-seize on the threads helps quite a bit as well.

Mount it

One of the often overlooked aspects of a suppressor is the mount. Why is a mount important? It could be the difference between a good day of shooting or a terrible day in which a poorly aligned suppressor leads to a 5.56 slug striking a suppressor baffle or the endcap of the silencer. It could also be the difference between your suppressor freezing hard to your muzzle device or coming off easily. There are many mounting options out there. Make sure you do your research and pick one which has a reputation for strength and ease of use. A quick word of advice, no matter how good the mount is I would advise putting a small amount of automotive anti-seize lubricant on the threads or lock up location.

Increased bolt carrier velocity

If you don’t manage your excess gas you’re going to have an increase in the velocity of the bolt carrier group. Many individuals control this by added a heavier buffer to their rifle in order to slow it down. A popular option is to utilize the Vltor A5 recoil system which in a nutshell uses a rifle length spring along with a special buffer. On most rifles, the standard weight buffer (A5H0) will work fine, although you can toy with a slightly heavier buffer in order to fine tune your rifle. On over-gassed rifles, such as the Daniel Defense Mk18, I’ve opted for a specialty heavyweight 6.8 oz buffer to calm the vicious speed that occurs when a suppressor is mounted to an already over-gassed system.

What good is my suppressor then?

Almost complete reduction of flash for night shooting. If you’ve ever had the opportunity to fire a rifle at night you can appreciate the amount of flash that is made. A suppressor (depending on make and model) will eliminate most of that. This makes shooting with night vision goggles an absolute pleasure as they are not getting washed out constantly by the muzzle blast. It obviously has it’s uses in a tactical environment as well. An enemy unable to pinpoint your location due to the reduced flash could, in some cases, be the difference between life and death.

Further, a suppressor helps reduce felt recoil due to the added weight at the muzzle as well as the reduction in speed of the propellant gasses. I’ve also found that the quiet report and lack of muzzle flash aids in rapid strings of fire or target transition. On average my timed drills are somewhat faster than without a suppressor even though my rifle weighs more and feels unwieldy.

Finally and perhaps most importantly, when a suppressor is paired with ear pro you protect your hearing even better. Hearing damage is cumulative gentlemen, and investing in a suppressor when you’re younger could perhaps help mitigate hearing damage later in life. For those who already engage in shouting matches due to loss of hearing, a suppressor could help preserve what you have left.

What motivates many to buy a suppressor is the combination of noise reduction, muzzle flash reduction, recoil reduction and protection of their hearing long-term. There are drawbacks when suppressing the AR-15 however I strongly feel that the pros outweigh the cons. A suppressor is an investment. Buy once, cry once has never been truer.

The Soviets and the 5.45×39: Imitation is the Sincerest Form of Flattery

The lineage of the 5.45 x 39mm rifle round that is commonly found in the AK-74 rifles all around the world can in a weird way trace its lineage back to the 5.56 x 45mm that NATO and the United States Military uses. Way back in the 1950’s what was then known as the Soviet Union had a fairly extensive network of spies and moles in almost every aspect of American society. In the years since the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991 the full extent of the espionage rings are just coming to light. It was through one of these networks that the Soviets learned of the United States development of a new main battle rifle to replace the short-lived Springfield M-14. This new rifle which became the Armalite/Colt M-16 as we know was chambered in the newly developed 5.56 x 45mm cartridge. This apparently made the Soviet Union paranoid that they were missing out as they watched their chief rival adopt an ideology of soldiers carrying smaller, lighter rifles that shot a smaller lighter bullet. This fact also let people carry more rounds per person into combat, and the Soviets were not about to take that fact lying down.

The Process of Design

Over the next decade the Soviets built teams of engineers to try to design a Soviet designed round that would replicate the 5.56 x 45mm in terms of accuracy and ballistics yet still use the AK-47 as its weapons platform. In 1967 the Soviet Union finally came up with a test design and the first 5.45 x 39mm cartridge using the newly devised lacquer coated steel cased ammunition was approved for testing. A few years later the team led by renowned Soviet weapons designer V.M. Sabelnikov had the now infamous and banned from importation “Standard” 5.45 x 39mm cartridge known as 7n6 approved for mass production by the Kremlin.

During this process the new rifle chambered in the 5.45 x 39mm operated and looked almost identical to the standard issue AK-47 which was formally adopted in 1947. So in typical drab plain Soviet fashion for the time the new rifle adopted in 1974 would be known as the AK-74. While not overly original or complicated, the Soviet numbering system was simple and easy to follow. The engineering team behind the AK-74 and 7n6 cartridge didn’t just sit back and rest, they went to work on developing a full complement of other times of ammunition for the newly minted AK-74 rifle. In short time the various design teams had successfully developed tracer rounds (7T3), training rounds (7×4), as well as a reduced velocity rounds (7U1) and blank rounds (7×3).

Misconceptions Confusing the 5.45 and the 7.62

Many people aren’t aware of the differences between the 5.45 x 39mm and the 7.62 x 39mm aside from bullet diameter. I have heard people say that they already own an AK in 7.62 x 39mm and getting one in 5.45 x 39 would make them confuse their ammunition and magazines. As you can see from the above picture, if you have an AK74 rifle you won’t be putting 7.62 x 39mm ammunition into your magazine on accident. Even if you tried on purpose to get one in I think the rules of physics and geometry would stop you.

There is also a common misconception that you can no longer get 5.45 x 39mm ammunition in the United States since the April 7th 2014 ruling from the Bureau of Alcohol Tobacco & Firearms. This is false, the ruling that confuses everyone revolves around the surplus 7n6 / 52.9 grain ammunition that was incredibly cheap and available in the United States. The free market economy has stepped up many manufacturers are producing and importing ample supplies of the round. European companies like Wolf, Tula, Silver Bear, and Barnaul continue to import several varieties and domestic production is ramping up as Hornady is continuing to develop loads in 5.45 x 39 using their V-Max projectiles up to 60 grains.

The 5.45 x 39mm is unknown by some in the firearms community, and until recently it I was aware of the cartridge but never fired any weapon chambered in it. Unfortunately this is the issue that many people have to overcome, or get past their anti-Soviet weapon bias. Over the last few decades we have been taught that any Russian designed firearm was crude and inaccurate. This myth may have truths when the guns are built in hodge podge back alley shops in the Khyber Pass, but not the case with weapons that use quality materials and are properly built.

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery

When you look at the 5.45 x 39mm and it’s ballistics it really begins to show that the old Soviet Union thought that Eugene Stoner, Earle Harvey and friends were onto something special when they began to tweek the old .222 Remington cartridge, either that or what their spies reported scared them to death. The 5.45 x 39mm generally uses a 52.9 grain bullet that travels at almost 2900 ft per second, which is slightly slower and smaller than the XM193 55 grain 5.45 x45 mm cartridge. The smaller and slower round in many cases depending on the exact bullet composition and atmospheric conditions will stay neck and neck with the 5.56 x45 mm in terms of velocity and bullet drop.

The final form of imitation that the Soviets went after was the creation of higher capacity magazines. When the AK-74 first arrived on the scene it fielded a 30 round magazine like its big brother the AK-47. This was quickly upped to a 45 round magazine that was issued to troops depending on their roles and responsibilities. Keep in mind this was decades before Mag Pul decided to make a 60 round AR-15 magazine, for once the Soviets were trend setters. In 1979 the Soviet Union with its fresh supplies of AK-74’s and other weapons chambered in 5.45 x 39mm invaded Afghanistan and the real world tests of the rifle and cartridge began on a massive scale.

5.45 x 39 in the 21st Century

The 5.45 x 39mm and rifles chambered in it haven’t been around nearly as long as the venerable AK-47, but it is replacing the older rifles as they wear out. The former Soviet Bloc and Russia have fully transitioned over to the 5.45×39 cartridge, those that haven’t will most likely adopt the 5.56 x 45mm because of NATO requirements. The AK-74 rifle and the 5.45 x 39mm round continue to evolve just like the M16 and the 5.56 x 45mm. Weapons designers continue to look for materials, and ways to make bullets more environmentally friendly as well as more lethal. In this writers opinion its a very strange dance to make something more eco-friendly yet is designed to put people in the dirt, it’s a very Ying -Yang / Circle of Life type of thing.

The curiosity I had about the AK-74 and the 5.45 x 39mm is what prompted my in the name of scientific endeavors to secure a Russian Saiga project and a healthy amount of ammunition. Our testing that will begin after 1 September will be to put the two rifles and two rounds side by side and have a variety of shooters try them. The purpose of the test will be to try them at two relatively short ranges 50 & 100 meters and see what our panel of non professional shooters think. Many people report that shooting the 5.45 is more pleasant than a 5.56. It might be the slightly slower velocity will result in less felt recoil, thereby making inexperienced shooters feel more comfortable and increasing their accuracy.

The secondary goal of this testing is to get the Saiga into as many different shooters hands as I can so that we can spread the word of the 5.45 mm to the masses. It’s like a gun lovers good deed for humanity. In all seriousness I feel that as a gun owner and as a professional that its part of my responsibility to let people shoot most of the guns I own if they haven’t ever seen whatever I happen to have that day at the range. If it’s my MP5 , or a new CZ-P10C, it doesn’t matter. It’s all about letting people experience different types of firearms. (Stepping off my soapbox).

Many people think that smaller rifles shooting and intermediate sized round and primarily engaging targets 300 meters and closer is useless. In the ever-changing world of International Police Actions, small-scale limited warfare and anti terror operations these types of rounds and guns are finding new life.

All you have to do is look closely at any video from the wars in the Crimea, Syria or any other conflict zone and you can see the AK-74 is just as valuable a tool as the AK-47 that it replaced. In closing we want to know what you think of the 5.45 x 39 or the AK-74. How many of you own them or use them regularly at the range ? Tell us your stories.

How to Build an AR-15: A Beginner’s Guide

You do not always have to go to a gun store to purchase an AR-15. Surprised? I know I was when I first ventured into the hobby of building custom AR-15s. Some of you may not know, but building your own AR-15 is actually quite simple. However, if you do not know anything about the process, or where to start, you have come to the right place. I am going to start this “How to Build an AR-15” series off with a list of frequently asked questions that I receive from individuals starting out with the hobby and possibly wanting to build their first AR-15.

WARNING! Building AR rifles is highly addictive. Once you start this process, you will find excuses to build .308 ARs, AR pistols and long range precision rifles. You have been warned.

Building an AR-15 FAQ

Q: Are there any rules or laws for building my own AR-15?
A: Only the same ones that apply to purchasing a factory assembled AR-15 in your state.

Q: Do I need to register my AR-15?
A: There is currently no Federal firearms registry, but you’ll need to verify the registry laws by state (e.g., New York does require registry of “assault rifles,” including standard AR-15 rifles).

My AR-15 - thearmsguide.com — Me smiling after taking some of the first shots with the first AR-15 that I built for myself. Photo of me courtesy of paul-vincent.com

Q: Do I need to be licensed or be a gunsmith to build my own AR-15?
A: Not unless you’re milling the lower receiver yourself.

Q: How many AR-15s can I build?
A: As many as you would like to—whichever comes first.

Q: If I build an AR-15 for myself, can I then sell it?
A: The same laws for private sales of firearms apply to selling AR-15 rifles. Check your state laws.

Q: How do I buy a “stripped” or “blank” AR-15 lower receiver?
A: You will need to find a dealer that sells AR-15 lower receivers. Said dealer can be local to you, or online.

Q: Can I buy all the parts online and have them shipped to my home?
A: This is a long one, so get comfortable. Yes and no. All of the components for your AR-15 build can be shipped directly to you at your home except the lower receiver.

The AR-15 lower receiver is the only component that is considered the “gun”. Therefore, when purchasing a lower receiver for your AR-15 build, you will have to go through the same channels as when purchasing a firearm in your state.

For example, in my state of Minnesota, if I order a stripped AR-15 lower receiver online, I will have to provide the seller with a copy of an FFL (Federal Firearms License) and the address to aforementioned FFL. In other words, I just have to call my local gun shop and ask them to fax a copy of their FFL to the seller. The seller will then collect money from me for the receiver, and then ship it to my local gun shop. When the gun shop calls me to tell me that my lower receiver has arrived, I will go there and fill out the ATF form to make sure I can legally own a firearm, pay a transfer fee (this fee is usually less than $30), and take my new AR-15 lower receiver home (thankfully, Minnesota has no waiting period for long gun purchases).

If I decide not to order online, and I know of a gun shop that stocks lower receivers nearby, I can just go purchase it directly from that store, and then fill out the necessary ATF form, just as I would for purchasing any other kind of firearm.

Q: What parts make up an AR-15 that I would have to purchase to build one?
A: There are a variety of different types of AR-15 builds, so this list will not work for all builds. However, I put together a list of components for building a typical M-4 style AR-15 with a stripped lower receiver, and stripped upper receiver:

AR-15 lower receiver.
AR-15 upper receiver.
Lower receiver parts kit.
Upper receiver parts kit.
Lower receiver extension (aka: the buffer tube).
Buffer.
Buffer spring.
Barrel & gas block/gas system (a carbine length gas system would be typical for this build).
Handguards (length will depend on what length gas system you chose on your barrel: carbine, mid-length, or rifle).
Bolt carrier group (carrier, bolt, firing pin, cam, extractor, ejector and spring).
Collapsible (or fixed, if you prefer) buttstock.
At least one magazine (be sure to check your state laws for magazine capacity limits).

Q: What is the difference between a forged lower receiver and a billet lower receiver?
A: With a forged lower receiver, the metal is “smashed” into the desired form while it is red hot. This compresses the metal and makes it very strong.

Billet lower receivers are machined from a single block of metal and tend to have a more custom, aesthetically pleasing appearance to some. It also tends to have the trigger guard built in, meaning it is not removable. They also tend to cost considerably more than a forged lower. Billet lowers may not have quite the tolerance that forged lowers, but by no means are they to be considered “weak.”

MEGA Billet Lower - thearmsguide.com — This is an example of a billet AR-15 lower receiver. Image courtesy of megaarms.com

MEGA Forged Lower - thearmsguide.com — This is an example of a forged AR-15 lower receiver. Image courtesy of megaarms.com

Q: How do I know which lower receiver to purchase? What “brands” are good?
A: There are a tremendous amount of different lowers out on the market, but not every lower is made by the company that has its name on the side. You would be surprised at how many lowers from different companies actually come from probably less than a dozen machine shops.

At present, this is the list of which manufacturers produce lowers for which companies:

Lewis Machine & Tool

LMT
Lauer
DS Arms
PWA
Eagle
Armalite
Knights Armament
Barrett

Continental Machine Tool

Stag
Rock River Arms
High Standard
Noveske
Century (New)
Global Tactical
CLE
S&W
MGI
Wilson Tactical
Grenadier Precision
Colt

LAR Manufacturing

LAR
Bushmaster
Ameetec
DPMS
CMMG
Double Star
Fulton Armory
Spike’s Tactical

JVP

Double Star
LRB
Charles Daly

Mega Machine Shop

Mega
GSE
Dalphon
POF
Alexander Arms

Olympic

Olympic
SGW
Tromix
Palmetto
Dalphon
Frankford
Century (Old)

Sun Devil

Sun Devil forged billet receivers

Superior

Superior Arms
Lauer (New)

Aero Precision

Aero Precision

Considering that almost all AR-15 lower receivers are made to a very specific tolerance, based on military specifications (mil-spec), my advice is to choose whichever AR-15 lower receiver that has a roll-mark (or logo) that you think is “coolest” or is most appealing to you personally.

Q: Some barrels say they are chambered in 5.56 and some say they are chambered in .223. What is the difference?
A: Basically, the rule of thumb is this: a rifle chambered for 5.56 can shoot both 5.56 and .223 ammunition. A rifle chambered for .223 can only shoot .223 and not 5.56. For the full story on 5.56 vs. .223, check out this article by Destinee.

Q: What does barrel twist mean? 1:7 and 1:9? Ratio? What?
A: Confused? Yeah, this one is kind of technical but I will keep it simple. When choosing a barrel twist ratio, you will want to choose one that best matches the type of ammo you would normally be shooting. What the ratio means, such as 1:7 for example, is that when the bullet travels down the barrel, it will make one complete spin (via the rifling) every seven inches.

AR-15 1:7 vs 1:9 Ratio - thearmsguide.com — (Fig. 1a)This is great information about shooting 1:7 vs. 1:9 twist ratios at long distances through your AR-15.

This is one of the most hotly debated topics about AR-15 rifles. Personally, I chose to go with 1:7 because it gives me the option of shooting the heavier rounds. Because 55gr .223/5.56 is the most common bullet weight available (that’s the weight used in XM193 military ball 5.56×45 ammo), and the most frequently fired, you would be fine with either 1:7 or 1:9. I have also been told by reputable sources in law enforcement that 1:9 is recommended for plinking, and 1:7 for hunting and home defense.

To break it down, 1:7 will do just fine with shooting lighter and heavier rounds. 1:9, on the other hand, will handle lighter rounds better, and will not do so well with anything heavy at long distances. (Fig. 1a)

Carbine vs Mid-Length vs Rifle AR-15 - thearmsguide.com — A comparison photo of different length gas systems, barrels and rail systems for an AR-15. Image courtesy of laruetactical.com

Q: What does carbine, mid-length and rifle length mean when choosing a barrel?
A: It simply means where the gas port in the barrel is placed. It is also sometimes referred to as the “gas-system”. Carbine and mid-length gas systems tend to be on barrels of 16-18 inches and shorter, while barrels with a length of 20 inches and longer will have a rifle length gas system.

It is important to know what length gas system your barrel has because the gas tube you purchase will need to be the right length in order to fit properly. For example, you cannot fit a carbine length gas tube onto a barrel with a rifle length gas system. The gas tube will be too short.

Q: I am ready to build my AR-15 lower receiver but I do not know the steps. How do I do it?
A: Great question. In the following posts in this “How to Build an AR-15” series, I will go over how to build your AR-15 (starting with building your lower receiver, and moving from there to the AR-15 upper), what tools you will need, and I’ll offer some helpful tips along the way. Stay tuned.

Sniper’s Choice | Bolt-action vs. Semi-auto precision rifles

Bolt-action vs. Semi-auto

There is an ongoing debate as to whether someone should purchase a semi-automatic rifle or a bolt-action rifle for long-range precision shooting. There are a few key variances in both which make them very different, and probably contribute to the wide divergence in opinion. Typically, the bolt-action precision rifle is considered more accurate than a semi automatic. However, this depends on numerous factors with regard to both firearm and ammunition, and modern semi-automatic rifles can be exceptionally accurate when designed with long-ranging shooting in mind. Some of the factors that precision shooters take into consideration when accuracy is discussed between the two platforms are:

Recoil
Gas release
Moving components

Recoil

The bolt-action rifle, when fired, has only one stage of recoil, this being recoil to the rear—into the shooter’s shoulder pocket. The semi-auto precision rifle, when fired, has three stages of recoil: One being to the rear as the bullet exits the muzzle, another to the rear as the bolt slams into the buffer, and the final stage as the bolt slams forward, picking up an additional cartridge. Because the bolt-action rifle has only a single stage of recoil to the rear, some shooters find they can “drive the rifle” in a superior manner to semi-automatic rifles.

Gas release

When a cartridge is fired inside the chamber of a bolt-action rifle, the force from the burning charge and expanding gases propels the bullet down the barrel. However, some of the energy is transferred to the shooter through its normal recoil. In a semi-automatic rifle, some of the energy used to propel the bullet down the barrel is used to cycle the action.

Moving components

The moving components of the two rifle platforms must also be considered. Typically, precision-rifle shooters prefer the bolt rifle simply due to its lack of moving components, and by extension, simplicity and reliability. Taking a look at the bolt rifle, the only moving part is the bolt, which is manually operated by the shooter. Once the bolt is locked, the entire rifle is merely one solid component, thus making it easier to control through recoil and avoiding bullet-impact deviation downrange due to shooter-induced movement.

The semi-automatic precision rifle will always have a moving part in some section of the rifle, this usually being in the upper and lower receiver. If you’ve ever looked through the scope while in the prone position, you may have noticed that the slightest movement with your firing or support hand causes the upper receiver to shift slightly left or right, or in some cases, up or down. This slight shift/movement within the scope may be caused by a number of factors: shooter flinch, undue sympathetic squeeze as the rifle is firing, etc.

As the shooter begins to fire or begins to perceive recoil, the shooter may cause the upper and lower receiver to shift where the two components meet, thus causing a change in desired point of impact when the rifle is fired. To the untrained or novice shooter, this may seem like a “sloppy gun,” or a rifle that is unable to achieve 1MOA.

Malfunctions

Semi automatic

As with any semi-automatic rifle or handgun, we can find an array of weapon-induced or shooter-induced malfunctions. Some of the malfunctions I have commonly seen within the semi-automatic family of precision rifles include the following:

Stovepipe: A stovepipe occurs when the casing that has been ejected is caught in the ejection port by the slide. This could be due to unburned powder, obstructions of various sorts that are placed near the ejection port not allowing the complete ejection of the spent casing, and poor-quality ammo.
Failure to extract: This results when the cartridge case remains in the chamber of the rifle. While the bolt and bolt carrier could move rearward only a short distance, more commonly the bolt and bolt carrier recoil fully to the rear, leaving the cartridge case in the chamber. A live round is then forced into the base of the cartridge case as the bolt returns in the next feed cycle. This malfunction is also one of the hardest to clear. A failure to extract could be caused by short-recoil cycles brought on by a fouled or corroded rifle chamber. A damaged extractor or a weak or broken extractor spring can also cause this malfunction.
Failure to eject: Here, a malfunction occurs when the cartridge is not ejected through the ejection port and either remains partly in the chamber or becomes jammed in the upper receiver as the bolt closes. This could be a result of carbon or fouling on the ejector spring or extractor, or from short recoil. Short recoil is usually due to a buildup of fouling in the carrier mechanism or gas tube. Resistance caused by a carbon-coated or corroded chamber can impede the extraction, and the subsequent ejection, of a cartridge.

Double feed: This malfunction occurs when a round is in the chamber and a second round attempts to feed into the chamber. This results in a true jam. On most semi-automatic weapons, the slide has a limited motion and the magazine will not eject by pressing the magazine release.
Failure to feed, chamber, or lock: A malfunction can occur when loading the rifle or during the cycle of operation. Once the magazine has been loaded into the rifle, the forward movement of the bolt carrier group could lack enough force (generated by the expansion of the action spring) to feed, chamber, or lock the bolt. Some of the causes could be the result of the following:

Excess accumulation of dirt or fouling in and around the bolt and bolt carrier.

Defective magazine (dented, bulged, or a weak magazine spring).

Improperly loaded magazine.

Defective round (projectile forced back into the cartridge case, which could result in a stubbed round or the base of the previous cartridge could be separated, leaving the remainder in the chamber).

Damaged or broken action spring.

Exterior accumulation of dirt in the lower-receiver extension.

Fouled gas tube resulting in short recoil.

A magazine resting on the ground or pushed forward could cause an improper lock.

Failure to fire: This malfunction occurs when a cartridge fails to fire despite being chambered, the trigger pulled, and the sear releasing the hammer. This occurs when the firing pin fails to strike the primer with enough force, or when the ammunition is defective. Probable causes of this malfunction include excessive carbon buildup on the firing pin, thus restricting the full forward travel of the pin, or a defective or worn firing pin. Proper inspection of the ammunition could reveal a shallow indentation or no mark on the primer, indicating a firing-pin malfunction. Cartridges that show an indentation on the primer but did not fire may indicate faulty ammunition.

Bolt action

One major benefit of having a bolt-action rifle is the lack of malfunctions they produce. Here are a some of the most common bolt-action malfunctions that I have seen over time, both shooter induced and weapon induced.

Falling firing pin: A falling firing pin occurs when the shooter closes the bolt too fast or too hard. The firing pin will not stay in the rear position, but will instead “fall forward” and move into the fired position. When this occurs, the shooter is not able to fire the rifle. The most common causes are a lack of maintenance on the bolt, dirt or buildup on the bolt face, etc.

Failure to fire: Failure to fire in a bolt gun occurs in the same manner as in the semi-automatic.

Failure to feed: A failure to feed occurs in the same manner as the semi-automatic. The problem usually occurs when the shooter bolt overrides the cartridge in the internal or external magazine.

Performance in the field

Although one rifle platform may surpass the other in certain applications or instances, we must also understand that a given platform is only a tool for a certain task, and may not be applicable in every situation. Let’s take a look at each platform’s advantages and disadvantages by discussing different situations/environments.

Multiple engagements

Precision shooters may find themselves in a multiple-target engagement situation not only in combat (defensive or offensive), but in a timed competitive event as well. As we all know, holdovers and holdunders will greatly increase our speed at getting rounds on target, but when time matters the most, the semi-automatic rifle will by far surpass the bolt rifle. The amount of time it takes to run the bolt, acquire the target, and get a proper trigger squeeze on target is greater than that of the semi, as the shooter only has to transition through targets and apply a proper trigger squeeze while utilizing the trigger reset.

Use in urban and woodland environments

In regards to the use of a precision rifle in an urban environment, speed, accuracy, and possible presentation of multiple targets plays a big role in the choosing the superior platform. While the bolt rifle may have the greater advantage in accuracy, which is commonly needed when engaging partially obscured targets at various ranges, it may lack the speed needed to engage multiple targets.

The semi-automatic rifle, while being superior in speed and engaging multiple targets, may lack the accuracy needed to engage small, partially obscured targets. This is usually due to the shooter not properly driving the rifle while in various alternate shooting positions, but it’s a consideration, notwithstanding.

Aerial platforms

As difficult in nature as aerial shooting can be, the amount of rounds used to engage a target while the shooter is airborne are typically more than three, due to the lack of a stable platform, the amount of time the shooter is actually on or able to engage the target, and proper lead needed to engage the target. This being the case, the semi-automatic rifle surpasses the bolt-action.

*Featured image courtesy of DVIDS

The Heckler & Koch MP7: Compact and lightweight Personal Defense Weapon

The MP7 is extremely compact, lightweight, can be used in very confined spaces, and is practically recoil-free. It can be carried continuously, making it the ideal personal weapon for the soldier of today. Those who carry it will be suitably armed for the broadest range of operations. – Heckler & Koch

In 1989, NATO published a set of requirements that requested a new type of firearm with rounds capable of penetrating body armor. Called the Personal Defense weapon, or PDW, it was meant to replace weapons, such as pistols and submachine guns, whose caliber was found wanting against ballistic protection. Several companies went on to design PDWs, with the most successful, if not the most visible version, coming from German arms company Heckler & Koch.

Designated the MP7, it was first displayed in 1999, with H&K officially beginning production of the weapon in 2000. The MP7 is a compact firearm that uses polymers extensively in its construction, and a short 7.1 inch barrel that helps keep the weight at 4.1 pounds. For ease of carry, a sliding stock provides a length of 25.1 inches extended and 16.3 inches closed. Iron sights for back up compliment mounting rails for sights, lights and lasers, etc., atop the length of the receiver and both sides of the forearm. A front grip that folds under the forearm is also standard.

Internally, its operation is based on the short stroke piston design of the G36 assault rifle, another H&K offering, and helps ensure that the round, which is unique to this weapon, functions reliably. And it is this round which may be the most intriguing part of the MP7.

Featuring a cartridge that measures a diminutive 4.6x30mm, first impressions might lead one to dismiss it as insufficient. Nonetheless, looks can be deceiving, and in this case keep in mind it is meant to defeat body armor. In this role, it is successful.

There are three types of rounds in widespread use. All feature specially designed penetration abilities, which range from the standard DM11, a 31 grain copper plated solid steel AP projectile; the DM21, a 46 grain steel jacketed lead core FMJ round; to the improved DM31 grain copper washed steel jacketed solid steel AP round. These can penetrate several layers of woven Kevlar fabric, with the DM11 traveling at a muzzle velocity of 2,362 fps able to pass through 20 layers backed by a 1.6mm titanium plate at 200 meters.

The cartridge fits in box magazines that come in 20, 30 or 40 round sizes. The 20 round is the same size of a 15 round 9mm magazine and the 40 is the same size of a 30 round 9mm. These insert into the pistol grip of the weapon and are reminiscent of the famous Uzi SMG.

Events after September 11, 2001 sent the MP7 into the field and it became an instant hit. Through the years, numerous worldwide Special Forces and police units adopted it, one of the most famous being the U.S Navy’s DEVGRU, better known as Seal Team 6. The weapon has seen use in Iraq, Afghanistan, and likely numerous classified operations during the War on Terror.

In 2003, H&K improved upon the design and a new version appeared called the MP7A1. This is the variant produced today, and features a redesigned pistol grip, stock and integral trigger safety like those found on Glock pistols.

As of 2014, military and police units of 17 nations employ the MP7 and MP7A1. Without a doubt, it is one of the most popular PDWs in the world today, with its closest competitor being the Fabrique National P90 in 5.7x28mm. FN’s PDW holds the lead in adoptions due in part to a 10 year head start in production. Regardless of this, it is not unreasonable to expect H&K’s weapon to close the gap in the coming years.

For more information

*Photos courtesy of Heckler & Koch

*Originally published on Special Operations.com