Precision Rifle Shooting

Sniper’s Choice | Bolt-action vs. Semi-auto precision rifles

Bolt-action vs. Semi-auto

There is an ongoing debate as to whether someone should purchase a semi-automatic rifle or a bolt-action rifle for long-range precision shooting. There are a few key variances in both which make them very different, and probably contribute to the wide divergence in opinion. Typically, the bolt-action precision rifle is considered more accurate than a semi automatic. However, this depends on numerous factors with regard to both firearm and ammunition, and modern semi-automatic rifles can be exceptionally accurate when designed with long-ranging shooting in mind. Some of the factors that precision shooters take into consideration when accuracy is discussed between the two platforms are:

Recoil
Gas release
Moving components

Recoil

The bolt-action rifle, when fired, has only one stage of recoil, this being recoil to the rear—into the shooter’s shoulder pocket. The semi-auto precision rifle, when fired, has three stages of recoil: One being to the rear as the bullet exits the muzzle, another to the rear as the bolt slams into the buffer, and the final stage as the bolt slams forward, picking up an additional cartridge. Because the bolt-action rifle has only a single stage of recoil to the rear, some shooters find they can “drive the rifle” in a superior manner to semi-automatic rifles.

Gas release

When a cartridge is fired inside the chamber of a bolt-action rifle, the force from the burning charge and expanding gases propels the bullet down the barrel. However, some of the energy is transferred to the shooter through its normal recoil. In a semi-automatic rifle, some of the energy used to propel the bullet down the barrel is used to cycle the action.

Moving components

The moving components of the two rifle platforms must also be considered. Typically, precision-rifle shooters prefer the bolt rifle simply due to its lack of moving components, and by extension, simplicity and reliability. Taking a look at the bolt rifle, the only moving part is the bolt, which is manually operated by the shooter. Once the bolt is locked, the entire rifle is merely one solid component, thus making it easier to control through recoil and avoiding bullet-impact deviation downrange due to shooter-induced movement.

The semi-automatic precision rifle will always have a moving part in some section of the rifle, this usually being in the upper and lower receiver. If you’ve ever looked through the scope while in the prone position, you may have noticed that the slightest movement with your firing or support hand causes the upper receiver to shift slightly left or right, or in some cases, up or down. This slight shift/movement within the scope may be caused by a number of factors: shooter flinch, undue sympathetic squeeze as the rifle is firing, etc.

As the shooter begins to fire or begins to perceive recoil, the shooter may cause the upper and lower receiver to shift where the two components meet, thus causing a change in desired point of impact when the rifle is fired. To the untrained or novice shooter, this may seem like a “sloppy gun,” or a rifle that is unable to achieve 1MOA.

Malfunctions

Semi automatic

As with any semi-automatic rifle or handgun, we can find an array of weapon-induced or shooter-induced malfunctions. Some of the malfunctions I have commonly seen within the semi-automatic family of precision rifles include the following:

Stovepipe: A stovepipe occurs when the casing that has been ejected is caught in the ejection port by the slide. This could be due to unburned powder, obstructions of various sorts that are placed near the ejection port not allowing the complete ejection of the spent casing, and poor-quality ammo.
Failure to extract: This results when the cartridge case remains in the chamber of the rifle. While the bolt and bolt carrier could move rearward only a short distance, more commonly the bolt and bolt carrier recoil fully to the rear, leaving the cartridge case in the chamber. A live round is then forced into the base of the cartridge case as the bolt returns in the next feed cycle. This malfunction is also one of the hardest to clear. A failure to extract could be caused by short-recoil cycles brought on by a fouled or corroded rifle chamber. A damaged extractor or a weak or broken extractor spring can also cause this malfunction.
Failure to eject: Here, a malfunction occurs when the cartridge is not ejected through the ejection port and either remains partly in the chamber or becomes jammed in the upper receiver as the bolt closes. This could be a result of carbon or fouling on the ejector spring or extractor, or from short recoil. Short recoil is usually due to a buildup of fouling in the carrier mechanism or gas tube. Resistance caused by a carbon-coated or corroded chamber can impede the extraction, and the subsequent ejection, of a cartridge.

Double feed: This malfunction occurs when a round is in the chamber and a second round attempts to feed into the chamber. This results in a true jam. On most semi-automatic weapons, the slide has a limited motion and the magazine will not eject by pressing the magazine release.
Failure to feed, chamber, or lock: A malfunction can occur when loading the rifle or during the cycle of operation. Once the magazine has been loaded into the rifle, the forward movement of the bolt carrier group could lack enough force (generated by the expansion of the action spring) to feed, chamber, or lock the bolt. Some of the causes could be the result of the following:

Excess accumulation of dirt or fouling in and around the bolt and bolt carrier.

Defective magazine (dented, bulged, or a weak magazine spring).

Improperly loaded magazine.

Defective round (projectile forced back into the cartridge case, which could result in a stubbed round or the base of the previous cartridge could be separated, leaving the remainder in the chamber).

Damaged or broken action spring.

Exterior accumulation of dirt in the lower-receiver extension.

Fouled gas tube resulting in short recoil.

A magazine resting on the ground or pushed forward could cause an improper lock.

Failure to fire: This malfunction occurs when a cartridge fails to fire despite being chambered, the trigger pulled, and the sear releasing the hammer. This occurs when the firing pin fails to strike the primer with enough force, or when the ammunition is defective. Probable causes of this malfunction include excessive carbon buildup on the firing pin, thus restricting the full forward travel of the pin, or a defective or worn firing pin. Proper inspection of the ammunition could reveal a shallow indentation or no mark on the primer, indicating a firing-pin malfunction. Cartridges that show an indentation on the primer but did not fire may indicate faulty ammunition.

Bolt action

One major benefit of having a bolt-action rifle is the lack of malfunctions they produce. Here are a some of the most common bolt-action malfunctions that I have seen over time, both shooter induced and weapon induced.

Falling firing pin: A falling firing pin occurs when the shooter closes the bolt too fast or too hard. The firing pin will not stay in the rear position, but will instead “fall forward” and move into the fired position. When this occurs, the shooter is not able to fire the rifle. The most common causes are a lack of maintenance on the bolt, dirt or buildup on the bolt face, etc.

Failure to fire: Failure to fire in a bolt gun occurs in the same manner as in the semi-automatic.

Failure to feed: A failure to feed occurs in the same manner as the semi-automatic. The problem usually occurs when the shooter bolt overrides the cartridge in the internal or external magazine.

Performance in the field

Although one rifle platform may surpass the other in certain applications or instances, we must also understand that a given platform is only a tool for a certain task, and may not be applicable in every situation. Let’s take a look at each platform’s advantages and disadvantages by discussing different situations/environments.

Multiple engagements

Precision shooters may find themselves in a multiple-target engagement situation not only in combat (defensive or offensive), but in a timed competitive event as well. As we all know, holdovers and holdunders will greatly increase our speed at getting rounds on target, but when time matters the most, the semi-automatic rifle will by far surpass the bolt rifle. The amount of time it takes to run the bolt, acquire the target, and get a proper trigger squeeze on target is greater than that of the semi, as the shooter only has to transition through targets and apply a proper trigger squeeze while utilizing the trigger reset.

Use in urban and woodland environments

In regards to the use of a precision rifle in an urban environment, speed, accuracy, and possible presentation of multiple targets plays a big role in the choosing the superior platform. While the bolt rifle may have the greater advantage in accuracy, which is commonly needed when engaging partially obscured targets at various ranges, it may lack the speed needed to engage multiple targets.

The semi-automatic rifle, while being superior in speed and engaging multiple targets, may lack the accuracy needed to engage small, partially obscured targets. This is usually due to the shooter not properly driving the rifle while in various alternate shooting positions, but it’s a consideration, notwithstanding.

Aerial platforms

As difficult in nature as aerial shooting can be, the amount of rounds used to engage a target while the shooter is airborne are typically more than three, due to the lack of a stable platform, the amount of time the shooter is actually on or able to engage the target, and proper lead needed to engage the target. This being the case, the semi-automatic rifle surpasses the bolt-action.

*Featured image courtesy of DVIDS

First look at the CMMG Endeavour 300 6.5 Creedmoor

First look at the CMMG Endeavour 300 chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor

Winter is breaking and soon we’ll be back into the long shooting season. In anticipation of clear skies and light winds, CMMG has sent out their Endeavour 300 MK3 chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. The recent rebranding of the company’s rifle lines has the rifle’s line-up and series denoting the intended role/function of the rifle. For example, the Endeavor line are the long range rifles. Within the Endeavour, the 100 series has a shorter, lighter barrel than the 300 series, which sports not only a longer barrel, but a precision rifle stock (among other upgrades). Clearly, the 100 would be better suited for most hunting applications, while the 300 would likely dominate at a long range precision shooting match.

While I’m going to need some serious range time to wring this rifle out, here’s my quick take on it.

Rex Nanorum

@Rexnanorum

Acceptable Accuracy: Long-range rifle shooting with Ryan Cleckner

If an expert with a ton of precision long range rifle shooting experience (let’s say a former 3rd BN, 75th Ranger Regiment sniper), could give you one little tip that had the possibility to quickly improve your accuracy at long range, would you be interested? I’m not talking about a magic word, but rather a resetting of your mental focus point to get you hits within the defined level of acceptable accuracy.

Good thing we have just such an expert around in Ryan Cleckner. Ryan is not only a former Ranger sniper team leader, but also a best-selling author and shooting instructor. His 2016 book, Long Range Shooting Handbook: A Beginner’s Guide To Precision Rifle Shooting is still #1 in Amazon’s Firearms Weapons and Warfare History category. He also has a number of instructional videos on YouTube, published with the National Shooting Sports Foundation.

In this most recent video, Ryan covers his one small recommended adjustment shooters should be making to their expectations of acceptable accuracy. Check out the video, give this tip a try next time you’re banging steel at 500+ yards. Let me know how it works for you!

Rex Nanorum

@Rexnanorum

AMTAC Shooting: Getting into precision rifle shooting

*Editors note: Photos and article have been shared with the permission of AMTAC Shooting.

This is a primer for guys that are interested in getting into precision rifle shooting. For the sake of this article, I am going to define precision rifle shooting as anything over 600 yards.

We will look at the options for all price ranges from $1,000-$10,000+. First off, don’t go broke buying gear. Regular training and quality instruction are more important than high-end equipment.

I am going to break this down into 6 categories:

1. caliber
2. rifle
3. scope
4. rings
5. ammunition
6. supporting equipment (spotting scope, range finder, etc…)

Calibers

1) 7.62/ 308 Winchester

Every American man should own a 7.62/ 308 Winchester. It is not the best in any one area, but it does well at everything. Quality ammunition and inexpensive ammunition are both easy to find. It has relatively mild recoil and if you do not abuse it the barrel can last for 3000-5000 rounds. Realistic, repeatable engagement distances are going to be 800-1000 yards depending on the gun/ load/ shooter/ conditions. Have guys made further shots than I am listing here? Absolutely, but I am talking about something that is commonly repeatable.

2) 6.5 Creedmoor or a 260 Remington

If you already own a rifle in 308, or you are putting together a rifle specifically to be able to shoot distance, I would recommend a 6.5 Creedmoor or a 260 Remington. Both of these calibers are great, the 260 Remington will give you a little bit more case capacity which can result in a little higher velocities if you are a reloader, but ammo availability is not as good. The 6.5 Creedmoor will generally run a little slower than the 260 Remington, but quality ammo is widely available and is priced almost the same as 308 match ammo. With both of these cartridges, you will be able to engage significantly further than the 308 Win. and with less recoil.

3) 300 Winmag or 300 Norma

If you want to reliably shoot further than the 6.5 Creedmoor or 260 Remington, or if you want to be able to have your rifle do double duty as an elk/ moose gun, you can look at the 300 Winmag or the 300 Norma. The Winmag has been the standard in military circles for years. With either of these calibers, you are pushing between a 190 gr. and a 230 gr. bullet and you can do some pretty amazing things.

Rifles

In the rifle category, there have been a ton of advancements. Recently I had students shooting beyond 1500 yards with rifle/ optic setups that were under $2000. This would have been unheard of 15 years ago. One of the first decisions you need to make is whether you want a chassis or a more traditionally stocked rifle. I personally prefer the look of a more traditional Manners or McMillan fiber glass stock, however, the more I am doing different non-standard shooting positions the more I appreciate a chassis rifle. With a chassis gun you can do all of the positional shooting that you can do with an AR without cranking on your barrel.

Wrapping the sling around a tree to build a stable firing position with a custom chassis rifle

This is not meant to be an extensive review of each rifle, merely a starting point to guide you in the right direction. Here are some options:

Ruger Precision Rifle

Ruger changed the paradigm of what to expect in a production rifle when they came out with the Ruger Precision Rifle. Both the 308 Win. or the 6.5 Creedmoor are among the calibers available. It is a chassis gun, has a folding stock, a decent trigger, 20 MOA base, AR style safety and uses either SR pattern or AI style magazines. Solid rifle.

Remington Model 700

The Remington 700 or its clones have probably been the most popular precision rifles to date. Almost every bolt gun I own is a model 700. Models worth considering include the 700 SPS Tactical, the 700 Magpul and the 700 PCR. These models 700s are available in 308 with some of them also available in 6.5 Creedmoor and 260 Rem.

Bergara

Bergara is a newer entry into the US market, but has some strong contenders in the precision rifle category. The B-14 HMR, B-14BMP and the Premier Series rifles are all worth looking into.

Savage

Savage has been building very accurate rifles for many years. Check out their 10 Savage Ashbury Precision rifle (around $1000). It is a fairly lightweight chassis rifle available in both 308 Win. and 6.5 Creedmoor.

Tikka

The Tikka T3X also looks like a great little chassis rifle. Tikka has one of the strongest reputations for accuracy in the market. The downside of this rifle is going to be the price point (around $1800) and their use of a proprietary magazine.

Custom Precision Rifles

Another option is a custom or semi-custom rifle. This is what my 260 bolt gun looks like. I started with a 26-inch Proof Research carbon wrapped barrel in 260. I sent the barrel off to Jon Beagle of jbeaglerifles.com. Jon trued a Remington model 700 action, cut the chamber into the barrel, threaded the muzzle and barreled the action for me. From there I installed a 20 MOA Picatinny base, Jewell trigger and dropped the barreled action into a XLR Evolution chassis. I finished it with a Area 419 Hellfire muzzle brake.

Scopes

This is another area where the technology is advancing very quickly. Scopes are better and more affordable now than they have ever been. That being said they are still painfully expensive. First off, I have used Leopold, Nightforce and Vortex professionally. They all make good scopes. The majority of scopes that I now own and teach with are all Vortex scopes so that is going to be what I am most familiar with now. There are a couple of key things to look for in a scope:

1. First, the amount of magnification and whether the optic is a fixed power or variable power. Going through sniper school, all we had were Leopold fixed 10 power scopes. We were regularly shooting past 1000 yards with that setup. Now we have had some significant innovations since that time and while it was possible to make shots at distance with a fixed 10 power scope, it is a lot easier to do it with a 4.5-27. It is also a lot easier to self-spot after a miss. So I recommend a variable power scope in the 5-25 ish range.

2. Next, the type of reticle and the type of adjustment units. The two common adjustment units are minute of angle (abbreviated as MOA) and milliradian (also known as Mil or MRAD). If you lived on an island and never trained with anyone else it wouldn’t matter which unit you picked. But you don’t live on an island and the vast majority of scope/ binocular/ spotting scope reticles are in Mils, so you should buy something in Mils. It is vitally important that you and your shooting buddy are speaking the same language. Using the same units of measure makes this communication easier. Now that we have agreed that you should buy a Mil scope, make sure that your reticle is also in Mils. I prefer a drop down reticle, it should have numbered full Mil hash marks, half Mil hash marks in between and .2 MRAD wind dots moving away laterally from the center. Almost every major scope manufacturer has their own version and there are a couple of versions that transcend brands. Popular reticles include the Tremor 2/3, Horus H59 and the Vortex EBR-2C.

3. Next in the long list of options is a first or second focal plane scope. In a first focal plane scope (some companies call them front focal plane or FFP), the units of measure in your scope are true regardless of your level of magnification. In a second focal plane scope (abbreviated as SFP), your units of measure are only true at a certain magnification. To keep this easy, if you can swing it financially, any scope that has a higher than 6 power magnification should be a first focal plane scope.

Here are some scope examples:

Budget Scope

Let’s start with the budget scope. This is not even close to the best scope, but when guys ask me about getting into a rifle that will shoot 1000 yards for bottom dollar, this is the recommendation. Bushnell Elite LRS 10×40 This is a fixed 10 power scope with a basic Mil-dot reticle. Unfortunately, this scope has MOA adjustments and a Mil reticle, so it is not as user-friendly, but it tracks well, holds up to recoil, and is relatively inexpensive ($240).

Midrange Scopes

Next we will look at some midrange scopes (around $1000). At this price point it is going to be hard to beat the Vortex PST 2 line. The PST 2 5-25 mrad with the EBR-2C reticle would be my first choice in this category. You get decent glass, a solid drop down reticle (has illumination), side adjustable for parallax and zero stops. Other option in this category would include the Leopold VX-3i LRP 6.5-20 FFP with the CCH reticle or the Nightforce SHV 4-14 FFP with the Mil R reticle.

High End Scopes

High-end glass ($2000 and up). All of these scopes are FFP scopes. The top overall pick is the Vortex Razor HD 2 4.5-27 mrad with the EBR-2C reticle. Very clear glass, built solidly (also heavy enough to use as a club if your rifle quits on you). All of my serious distance guns have this scope on it. They run around $2500.

Next would be the Nightforce ATACR 5-25 F1 with the Tremor 3 reticle. Simply put this is an amazing scope. Street price is around $3400.

The top one on the Leopold side is going to be the Mark 8 3.5-25 with the Tremor 3 reticle. Another solid scope coming in at around $4000.

Scope Rings

Quality scope rings are a must. If you have a nice rifle and a good piece of glass and the two are not held together securely you will have nothing but frustration. The current top mount that I am aware of is the Spuhr mount. This is a one piece mount with a built-in level and you can get it with or without a cant (for a distance gun I recommend the model with a 6 Mil/20.6 MOA can’t). Of course, all of this greatness in scope rings does not come cheap, they retail for just over $400.

The more reasonably priced and absolutely solid rings are going to be the Vortex Precision Matched Rings or the Nightforce Rings. I have used both of these and setups and they are solid. They will set you back between $120-180.

Ammunition

If you are going to be shooting past 600 yards it is important to have ammo that is optimized for that task. There are two overarching categories here, factory ammunition and hand loads. If you know what you are doing, you can absolutely make ammunition that is every bit as good if not better than factory ammo. If you want to go down the handloading road I recommend finding a mentor that can guide you through the process. The other category is factory ammunition. Fortunately, there is a wider variety of quality factory ammunition than there ever has been. A lot of people get very fixated on velocity when shooting distance and while velocity is very important, matching the ammunition to your particular firearm is far more important. The right ammo is going to depend on what the intended purpose of your gun is and also the individual firearm itself.

This is how I would go about trying to determine which factory load is right for you. Buy one box of inexpensive ammo. Use this to get a rough zero and break your rifle in. Then do a very short cleaning of the barrel, shoot three more of the inexpensive rounds and then start your accuracy testing. Shoot a minimum of two five shot groups with each ammo type. Go with the ammo that shoots the best group. If multiple loads are very close, go with the one that has the highest Ballistic Coefficient (BC) bullet, the lowest extreme spread in velocity and the highest overall velocity. In factory ammo, I shoot Black Hills ammunition. There are a lot of companies that make quality ammo, but I have repeatedly relied on Black Hills ammo when my life was on the line overseas, so I know that their quality is second to none. For some basic guidelines, here is a list of the different calibers and ammo types that I use:

308 Win. – Black Hills 175 gr. TMK
260 Rem. – Black Hills 140 gr. ELD in my gas gun and a 140 gr. Berger Hybrid hand load in my bolt gun
5.56 – Black Hills 77 gr. SMK or 77 gr. TMK. If your gun likes both the same, shoot the TMK’s, they have a better BC

Black Hills factory ammo, left to right: 308 175 gr. SMK, 308 175 gr. TMK, 260 Rem. 140 gr. ELD, 5.56 77 gr. SMK, 5.56 77 gr. TMK

Supporting Equipment

This category includes: spotting scopes, rangefinders, binoculars, ballistic calculators, weather stations and chronographs. Here is the list of what I have used or am currently using.

Range finders: In order to hit something at distance you have to know how far away your target is. The Vortex Fury binos/ range finder is my current favorite, the Sig Kilo 2200 MR is also a solid option. When my rangefinder will not give me a reading I use the LeaNav mapping app to determine my range.

Spotting Scope: I have a small Vortex 11-33 spotting scope. I honestly don’t use it that often though because it does not have a gridded reticle. I find that I do my best spotting with my Razor HD with the EBR-2C reticle.

Binoculars: I am currently using both the Vortex Viper HD 10×50 and the Fury HD range finding binos. Both are solid choices. In the past I have also used Swarovski and Steiner binoculars.

Weather station and ballistic software: Kestrel 5700 with the Applied Ballistics software is the only way to go if you want both atmospheric conditions and a ballistic computer (around $600). If you don’t want to spend that kind of money and your life does not depend on making the shot, buy the Applied Ballistics app ($30).

Chronograph: I am currently using the Magnetospeed V3. It is very accurate and is not affected by light conditions. Another chrono that I have not used, but have heard very good things about is the Labradar Ballistic Velocity Doppler Radar Chronograph.

In summary, knowledge and training are far more important than having the latest and greatest gear. Hopefully, this will clarify the things that are worth spending money on versus the things that are not worth spending money on.

Now get out there and start training.

Accuracy Begins with Stability: Skyline Precision Bipod

Accuracy Begins with Stability: Warne’s Skyline Precision Bipod

The Warne Skyline Precision Bipod provides a strong stable platform for your rifle. Designed to attach to your Picatinny rail, the Skyline bipod allows the shooter to make smooth one-handed cant and panning adjustments on uneven terrain or less than ideal positions.

The Warne Skyline Precision Bipod has been developed to offer the perfect work surface on which to shoot. It is adjustable with one hand from the prone shooting position, panning movement can be disabled, allowing only cant.

The bipod is a critical piece of gear. It provides stability, adjustability, and most importantly, consistency to your rifle shooting. Recoil generates tremendous forces and your bipod takes a lot more abuse than you might realize. The Skyline bipod has a weight of 19 oz.; made from 6061 T6 & 7075 T6 aircraft-grade aluminum with steel components in high stress and hard use areas.

You need the bipod to be tall enough to fit your type of shooting while adapting to unique positions you may encounter with a little extra height. Skyline has a minimum height of 6.9″ and extends to 9.5″ in half inch increments. The Skyline bipod has the ability to change the feet out without the use of tools. For recoil management some people like more aggressive feet.

Warne has been widely recognized in the bipod sector for a long time, and the Warne Skyline Precision Bipods is verification of their incredible endeavors to offer you some of the finest bipods on the market.

Patent Pending Design
Quickly attaches to any Picatinny/Weaver Type Rail
One Hand adjustability
5 Position Leg Rotation: 0°, 45°, 90°, 45°, 0°
Leg Extension Min Height 6.9”/Max Height 9.1”
22° Total Cant/44° Total Pan
Weighs 19 oz
Arca Swiss Rail version coming soon
Designed and MADE IN USA

Available accessories include:

Spike Feet
Claw Feet
3 inch Leg Extension
Sling Swivel Accessory Rail

You can get your very own Warne Skyline Precision Bipod HERE for $303.99.

About Warne:

Warne Scope Mounts has been supplying world class Made in the USA optic mounts to the shooting industry since 1991. A leading innovator and manufacturer of scope mounting systems, WARNE is positioned to supply its branded products worldwide through distribution and dealerships, as well as servicing the industry as a major OEM supplier. WARNE – Confidence in Every Shot!

Featured Image by Mark Miller

CMMG Rifle, Mk3 with Nikon BLACK FX1000 6-24×50SF Long Range Rifle Scope, SIG SAUER Elite Performance Ammunition 6.5 Creedmoor 140 gr OTM Match and Slumberjack’s Deadfall 65 Pack in Perception DST (Disruptive Shadow Technology) camouflage pattern.

The Truth About Gun Tests: The Accuracy of Modern Firearms

Gun tests are everywhere. It seems that for every make and model there is a report of amazing results, especially if it’s in a pay-for-play magazine or on a pay-for-play YouTube channel. Countering those claims are often dozens of e-experts who claim the most terrible experiences ever not recorded. The truth is they could very likely all be true. No matter who you are, what your background or experience the fact is that most modern firearms and ammunition are likely more accurate than you are. Our ability to control variables is what can make or brake our range visit.

Having tested over 100 firearms in the past year and nearly 100 different loads of ammunition we at GBGuns got a little complacent and it showed in our results. Wanting to see if the American Tactical Onmi Maxx Hybrid was accurate we set out to the range with three different types of ammunition. What made the Onmi Maxx interesting is that both the upper and lower are made of polymer. ATI recognized the potential positives and negative in this design and so wisely reinforced select areas with either thicker polymer or steel reinforcement. This ideally eliminates the weak points of other polymer AR-15s. Our question was will the polymer flex to the point of sacrificing accuracy?

What kind of accuracy can be expected from a budget AR with a 16″ barrel? I’d argue excellent accuracy, but the shooter, ammo, and conditions have to do their part. Sometimes that’s easier said than done. High-end triggers and rests can help by eliminating some of the human error, but only if the shooter is capable of taking advantage of them. Match ammo can also make a small difference. Several small factors all combine to make or break your shot. This is why the Ransom Rest and test barrels exist, but we find them to not represent practical accuracy. What you see below are the results of an imperfect test.

The moral of the story is that we will try again. There are good range days and bad range days. That video was filmed on a bad range day. Part of the joy of shooting is the satisfaction that comes from perfectly executed self discipline. When we fail it makes for good training. Recognize your shortcomings and give it another go. After all, reported accuracy makes no difference to you if you can’t preform well enough to utilize it. We will revisit this test in the future and try to give this rifle and the Wolf, Fiocchi, and Ted Nugent ammunition better representation.