Hunting

How to Survive Anything: Dealing with predators in the wild

If you’re stuck in the wilderness for an extended period of time, there’s a chance you may find yourself sharing your new home with a fair number of predators. Most predators don’t want anything to do with you: you don’t look or smell delicious, you’re much bigger than most prey, and for all they know, you could be a predator that sees them as a snack.

That can be both a benefit and a problem — it means predators will likely do their best to stay out of your way, but it also means one may feel threatened or even cornered if you catch it by surprise — and that’s a very dangerous situation to be in.

Stack the deck in favor of avoiding predators altogether by:

Keep food smells away from your camp. Don’t eat in your shelter or leave scraps of food around where you sleep. Clean your kills at least a hundred yards from camp and near a water source.
Make noise as you travel. It not only makes you sound big, it provides forewarning of your approach so predators can leave the area.
Never run when you come across a predator – it’ll incite them to chase you. You’re better off making yourself seem as large as you can and using slow, deliberate movements to back away while keeping your eye on the animal without making eye contact.
If attacked by a bear, tuck your chin and protect your head in the fetal position. Play dead until the bear loses interest.

How to Survive Anything: The survival rule of 3’s

The Rule of 3s is a long-standing saying that isn’t really meant to be a “rule,” so much as a guideline. Because your body and circumstances are both different from anyone else’s, how long you’ll last without access to shelter, food, or water will vary greatly from other people that find themselves in tough situations. Your physical health, level of hydration, environment, and countless other variables will all affect how long you can go without basic provisions.

With that in mind, the Rule of 3s is still a great tool for establishing your survival plan and prioritizing your tasks, so let’s break the rule down:

You can survive:

3 minutes without air or in icy water
3 hours without shelter in harsh environments
3 days without water
3 weeks without food

Now, your environment may dictate that you prioritize shelter over water (in extreme cold or heat, for instance) but in environments where the weather is fine and temperatures stay moderate, you can place your focus on water first or in equal measure.

While these may not be hard and fast rules like the name suggests, they are guidelines that it pays to keep in mind whenever you’re in a survival situation.

How to Survive Anything: How to signal SOS for help

Morse code may not be used all that frequently in today’s era of Snapchat filters and Twitter outrages, but learning these three letters can still save your life.

S-O-S isn’t actually an acronym for anything, despite what your Sailor grandfather may have told you — it’s really just the letter designations for the string of dots and dashes that are universally recognized as a distress signal.

To broadcast SOS audibly (on a radio, using a whistle, or just banging rocks together) bang or beep three times in quick succession, three slow bangs or beeps, and then three more quick ones. In written form, it’d sound like beep-beep-beep…beep—beep—beep…beep-beep-beep.

To convey the same message using a signal mirror or light source, simply flick the light at those same intervals.

How to Survive Anything: Situational awareness (and how to beat normalcy bias)

For a defensive minded person, potential threats to the well-being of you and your family are always near the forefront of your mind. Whether you’re walking down a dimly lit New York City alleyway or trudging up the steep and well-worn mountain path behind your wooded home, there are dangers to consider and mitigate if you want to ensure a long and fruitful life — and it’s this mindset that prompts many to carry their own iteration of the common Everyday Carry (EDC) loadouts. A concealed pistol, a good quality pocket knife, a flashlight, and for those who tend to be particularly well prepared, a tourniquet are all fairly common things to find in the day pack of a guy like me, but in the grand scope of survival, none of the stuff I have strapped to my waist or stashed in a backpack in my trunk matter nearly as much as the simple matter of objective observational awareness.

Life or death situations are tricky — particularly because you very rarely know you’re going to be in one until you’re already right in the thick of it. In those moments, split second decisions can mean the difference between life or death but most people aren’t mentally prepared to make those sorts of decisions because of a simple mental crutch we big-brained monkeys tend to cling to called normalcy bias.

What is normalcy bias?

Put simply, normalcy bias is our natural inclination to assume the best about a threatening situation because the breadth of your experience tells you that things will turn out fine. Leading a predominately safe life (as most of us do here in the United States) establishes a mental norm within our minds, leading many to underestimate the severity of a situation or the likelihood of a negative outcome. Normalcy bias doesn’t manifest in a slow rejection of the situation at hand, but as a delay in your processing of what’s going on around you. In the moment, with a threat approaching, many hush away their gut instincts, dismissing their concerns as paranoia: after all, what are the chances that the threatening looking character ten feet back and closing is actually a bad guy? What is the likelihood that the bag that kid left in the street is actually a bomb? That car can’t really be trying to run over pedestrians… can it?

That momentary unwillingness to accept the likelihood that your life is in danger is often the last thing that goes through a victim’s mind just before the worst happens — “I never thought this would happen to me.”

How do you overcome it?

Combating normalcy bias is one of the few tactical skill sets you can practice by yourself, inside your head, with no gear or equipment. The secret isn’t to live in a constant state of paranoia, but rather to legitimate practice maintaining an objective mindset when assessing the threats around you. If you have a bad feeling about a situation, don’t dismiss it as nonsense, engage with it. If you notice something out of the ordinary, chastise yourself for not keeping your distance, rather than for allowing your concerns to get the best of you.

It’s not a coincidence that many veterans learn to shy away from crowds and choose seats that allow them to keep an eye on the crowd: it’s not because they expect something bad to happen, it’s because they’ve seen bad things happen, and accept that they can. For many who have lived their entire lives within the relative safety and comfort of the American way of life, it can be harder to embrace this mindset. After all, if a you’ve never seen a gunman open fire on a crowd, it can be difficult to assume that’s what’s about to happen right before your eyes, even as the killing begins. That split second of hesitation keeps you, and those with you, in the line of fire, prevents you from responding with appropriate force when possible, and, chances are, may cost you your life.

In the moments before an attack, all you have to go on are your instincts and suspicions. Focus on managing them without disregarding them. (Image courtesy of MaxPixel)

And when I say, “split second,” I really mean it. National statistics show that the average time a police officer has to mentally justify the use of their weapon is just .21 seconds in simple scenarios and .87 seconds in more complex ones. On average, it takes about 1.19 seconds to draw a firearm from an open carry, friction retention holster, and longer from a concealed one. In total, we’re talking about a gun fight lasting between 2-3 seconds in close quarters — leaving very little room for complacency born out of assumptions.

Actively combating normalcy bias in your everyday life can mitigate the effects of our inclination to assume things are fine — demand a level of attentiveness in yourself until it becomes second nature. Trust your gut and act before something bad happens. It may be inconvenient to get the hell out of the mall when you spot someone looking nervous and fumbling with what could be a weapon inside their backpack… but inconvenienced beats dead any day. When armed, being aware of a possible threat and mentally preparing to draw your weapon if necessary can mean drawing and using the weapon quicker than you would if taken by surprise.

Don’t approach possible threats in a constant state of paranoia, but rather approach daily life like you might when merging on a congested highway: stay alert and be prepared to react.

Because you’ve only got to be wrong once to lose your life.

How to Survive Anything: Boiling water to make it potable

These days, it’s not unusual to carry a LifeStraw or other lightweight filtration method (like this one from LifeSaver) – but if you find yourself in a survival situation without your kit, good drinking water becomes no less important. In the absence of of water purification tablets or filtration systems, you can boil your water until it’s (more or less) safe to drink.

Try to draw your water from a moving source (no stagnant water) and make sure to remove any debris from it. Bring the water to a rolling boil in a metal pot and keep it there for at least 60 seconds (except for at altitudes about 2,000 meters, then boil for 3 minutes).

Let the water cool, and have a drink — it’s as simple as that.

How To Choose A Rifle Scope: The only guide you’ll need to read

Finding the right scope is like running through a maze, you don’t know WHERE you’re going. Couple that with the countless landmines of confusing technical jargon, specs, acronyms — and you might be in the maze for LIFE.

Not good.

That’s why I wrote this article — to help serve as a guide through the scope maze. In fact: This will be the LAST guide you’ll ever have to read to find the right scope…for YOU.

Let’s dig in!

Magnification

This is the part 99% of people screw up on. They either buy TOO much magnification or too little — ESPECIALLY when buying the best AR-15 rifle scope. Rest assured — you won’t make that mistake after reading this. So, let’s first start off by defining magnification.

Magnification is how much closer you can see the target than a naked eye.

For example, if the magnification is 2X that means you can see TWO TIMES closer than the naked eye. Easy enough?

So…

How Do You Find Magnification?

It’s usually the first number (or range of numbers) on a scope. For example: if a scope says 3×32… then the first number (‘3’) is the magnification. However, if it says 2-7×32… then the first range of numbers (2-7) is the magnification. In other words: you can choose a magnification between 2-7X. Because of this, there are actually two scope types:

Fixed power scope
Variable power scope.

Fixed power scope means there’s only 1 magnification (Ex: 3X), while variable allows you to choose from a range of magnifications (Ex: 2-7X).

Easy, right? But…which should you choose?

Fixed Power vs Variable Power

That depends on your use. If you require more than one magnification, then go for the variable. However, fixed power scopes are faster, higher quality, and cost less. So, keep that in mind when you’re choosing your scope. Don’t worry about making a decision now — we’ll touch on that in just a bit. But for now, let’s answer the lingering question that we left unanswered:

**How Much Magnification Do You Need?**

This is HIGHLY dependent on your rifle usage. If you use your rifle primarily for small game or homestead defense (>100 yards), then go for a magnification between 1 – 4x. Pro Tip: Go for a fixed power scope. It’ll make your short-range encounters faster.

However, if you use your rifle primarily for hunting large game in forests or mountains (>200 yards), then go for a magnification between 5 – 8x. Or, if you’re a sniper that hunts in fields or deserts (200+ yards), then go for a magnification between 9 – 12x. Simple enough, right? Now that you have your magnification, the next thing to find is the right…

Objective Lens

The objective lens is the lens at the end of the scope. The size of the objective lens is usually found at the END of the numbers (or after the x). For example: 3x32 means it has a 32mm objective lens. What about if it’s a variable scope? Same thing.

For example: 2-7x35 means it has a 35mm objective lens.

Understood? Cool. So…

WHY Is Objective Lens Important?

In layman’s terms: The more objective lens you have, the clearer and brighter your scope will look. However, it does come at a costly price. Larger objective lenses mean smaller scope rings, a heavier scope, and it may even give away your position due to the reflection of sunlight off the lens. So be careful.

With that said…

How Much Objective Lens Do You Need?

If you hunt in close range (>100 yards) with low recoil, go for 28mm & under.

If you hunt in medium to long range (150+ yards) with medium recoil, go for 30-44mm. (Also great for low-light hunters.)

And finally, if you’re solely a long range shooter, then go for 50mm & up objective lens.

With your magnification and objective lens in hand, now it’s time to talk…

Rifle Scope Lens Coatings

This is usually the second feature advertised. It may come packaged in fancy names, however ALL rifle coats fall under one of these criteria:

Coated: They cover at least one surface of the scope in one layer. The budget man’s package.
Fully-Coated: They cover ALL external glass surfaces in a single layer. The standard package.
Multicoated: They cover at least one surface in several layers. The upgraded package.
Fully Multicoated: They pamper ALL your scope’s external glass surfaces in several layers. The luxury package.

Which Rifle Coat Should You Choose?

Most scopes today are fully multi-coated. In fact: Over 90% of the scopes I’ve reviewed on my site so far are fully multi-coated. And if it’s not fully multi-coated, don’t sweat it — coats don’t make up for poor glass quality. However, something you DO have to sweat is…

Scope Reticles

The reticle is the crosshair (or the aiming point) you see. This will either make shooting easier or harder.

Here’s the best reticle to choose based on your use:

Duplex

If you’re a hunter or target shooter, go for a Duplex. It’s the simplest and fastest reticle to use.

Mildot

If what you’re shooting is a life and death situation (like the Military), go for a Mildot. It helps estimate target’s distance.

BDC

This is for the long-range shooter. Sure, it takes longer to use, however it helps adjust for bullet drop. Insanely useful for long distance shots.

But which to choose? If you hypothetically put a gun to my head (please don’t) and said: “Choose a reticle or die!” I’d honestly go for the Duplex. It’s easy, fast, and it plain up WORKS. But don’t take my word for it. Instead, test all these reticles and see which one you like best. The best reticle is the one YOU prefer.

With that said, it’s time to talk…

Focal Planes

This is the most common scope question I get asked: “Should I choose the First Focal Plane or Second Focal Plane?”

Here’s the straight up answer: go for second focal plane. Here’s why: For most general situations, the second focal plane works better. It’s cheaper and doesn’t obscure your view while the first focal plane does. That said, should you ever go with first focal plane? In only one condition: If you’re a long-range shooter (10X+ magnification).

The reason? It’s more accurate as the reticle size adjusts as you move up in magnification. Yet for most general situations, go for a second focal plane. It won’t disappoint. Once you’ve got your focal plane selected, it’s now time to discuss adjustment systems…

Minute of Angle (MOA) vs Milradian (MRAD)

To be completely honest, this part doesn’t matter much, but I’ll cover it anyway. So, which adjustment system is better: MOA vs MRAD? The straight up answer? Neither.

In fact, they operate interchangeably like miles per hour and kilometers per hour. Just choose an adjustment system your hunting buddies use. If you don’t know what your buddies use, just opt-in for MOA. It’s easier and more popular. Simple.

Let’s move onto…

Parallax

Parallax is bad. It happens when your scope’s reticle kind of bobs around with your head movement. Not good. If left unchecked, it can lead to bluriness, fuzziness, and missed shots. You want as LITTLE of parallax as possible for maximum accuracy.

The good news? There’s a way to…

Kill Parallax

This is dependent on the scope (and cheekweld). Scopes usually correct parallax in one of three ways:

Factory-Set. Parallax adjustment is built-in the scope by the manufacturer. This will be advertised.
Adjustable Objective (AO). This corrects parallax through a ring on the objective lens.
Third Turret. Move this knob to correct the parallax.

With that said, which option is best? They all do their job. Obviously the factory-set will be the easiest, but don’t worry about it too much. Only look at parallax adjustment as a tiebreaker between scopes. Speaking of tiebreakers, there’s one core feature that breaks all ties…

Windage and Elevation Turrets

This is by FAR the most important part. Actually, if these knobs (turrets) don’t work, you WON’T be able to zero your scope properly. In other words: You won’t be able to shoot JACK–So it matters. Here’s what you’ve got to know about windage and elevation:

First, make sure the turrets produce a loud “click” sound when they adjust. That way you know when you’ve adjusted. This is usually mentioned in the reviews.

Second, make sure the turrets are reliable. Don’t listen to the advertisers. Instead, read what people say about the turrets’ reliability.

Once you’ve done that, you’ll have found reliable windage and elevation turrets. Now, it’s time for the last important feature…

Eye Relief

Do this part wrong and you’ll look like Mad Eye Moody from Harry Potter. Do you want to look like him? I hope not. (If you do, you’ve got bigger problems than scopes).

Here’s how to save your eye (and comfort) from pain with proper eye relief. Let’s start off by defining eye relief: Eye relief is the distance between your eye and the lens you look through (ocular lens). If your weapon is higher recoil, you’ll need more eye relief. And vice versa for lower recoil.

In short: Aim for at least 3.5 – 4 inches of solid eye relief. Simple enough. With that, you now know EXACTLY what makes a good scope. But the million dollar question remains…

How Much Should You Spend On A Scope?

Here’s the ugly truth: It depends. You can be spending anywhere from $50 up to $1,000+. There’s really no ‘optimal’ amount to spend on a scope. Why? It’s HIGHLY dependent on your rifle, caliber, and usage. But you now know what makes the very best scope. The next part is easy:

Find The Scope That Calls Out To You

Yes, it’s true… you’re going to have to do a BIT of Googling before finding the right scope for you. That’s part of the process. Alternatively, if you’re having trouble finding the right scope for your rifle, visit my site: Scopes Field.

I’ve actually reviewed (and hand-tested) scopes for almost EVERY major rifle and calibers (like the Mini 14). So if you’re having problems finding a good rifle scope, then feel free to stop by for some tips.

And there you go! You’re now fully armed with EVERYTHING you need to know about choosing a rifle scope. Now go out there and buy yourself a great scope!

Feature image: U.S. Marine Corps photo by Lance Cpl. Alexis B. Betances

Author Bio:

Richard Douglas is a scopes expert with over 10 years of hands-on experience and has been featured on Burris Optics, War History Online and more. No wonder his friends call him the “James Bond of Scopes.” Richard now spends most of his time reviewing scopes and sharing his exclusive findings on his blog, Scopes Field.