AR15

The Maxim Defense CQB Stock: Short and Sweet

The Maxim Defense CQB Stock is a strong, comfortable, durable and compact stock that is made for real-world use. The Maxim CQB Stock weighs in at just 18.59 oz and has a housing made of 7075 Aluminum Alloy where they’ve smartly placed QD mounts. When closed, the stock measures just 5.375″ and extends out to a full 10″, the same as a extended carbine stock.. It has two additional positions at 6.875″ and 8.375″.

You can set-up the stock with a myriad of buffer options to fit your rifle and tune it in. The stock is available in black and FDE.

The Maxim Defense CQB Stock isn’t built to be a safe queen, it’s made for real-world use. With the 4 available extension positions, you can dial in the stock for your body and function.

Installation was easier than expected. Just be sure to not launch your detent and spring for the rear take-down pin when you disassemble!

Once together, I was amazed by the compact size of this unit and the comfort of the adjustment points. I’m a tall fella at 6’6″ with gorilla arms and the Maxim Defense CQB Stock still adjusted out to fit me.

At the range, I had mentally prepared myself for failures on my short barrel suppressed work rifle using the generic buffer and spring and assumed I would have to contact Maxim for different variations of their product to dial it in. I was pleasantly surprised with it, not a single failure after about 200 rounds through it. Obviously it’s going to need some more put down range to put me at ease but I’m on the range next week for rifle training so we’ll push it then. The hex patterned and textured butt plate kept the stock welded in place while ringing my CTS Steel plates.

Overall opinion of this piece of equipment is that it is strong, quality craftsmanship that makes my rifle a better trunk monkey. I’m able to stow it in more compact spaces, deploy in the confines of the front seat of a patrol vehicle without smacking a windshield, and manipulate the rifle in the close quarter confines of the trashiest trailer house. Coupled with the Spikes Tactical Compressor upper, I’ll hopefully still be able to hear if I ever have to use it in the field without my hearing protection on.

Speaking of hearing protection – if you’re in a position to affect change within your agency, work towards getting suppressors on all department rifles. One incident in a confined space with the patrol rifle and you’re looking at a high likelihood of permanent hearing loss.

MSRP for the Maxim Defense CQB Stock is $395.00. Maxim Defense Industries offers a 30-day return policy.

If you’re looking for pistol or rifle training in SW Washington, come join us at Willapa Firearms Training.

Suppressing the AR-15: The Good and Bad

I pulled the trigger on my MK18 with a surefire suppressor mounted and looked back at Jason, an active duty military police officer, “That’s actually still kind of loud” he exclaimed while replacing his Peltor headset onto his ears. And it was. An AR-15 chambered in 5.56 is never particularly quiet due to a variety of factors. However, if you are considering a suppressor for your AR-15 we should be candid about what it entails and what to look for.

There are three main sound sources made by an AR-15 when a round is discharged; the muzzle blast, the sound of the supersonic slug breaking the sound barrier and the mechanical noise of the weapon cycling after each shot. A suppressor aims to quiet the sound of the muzzle blast by trapping the expanding gasses from the end of the muzzle and allowing them to cool and decelerate in a series of chambers. In this way, the decibel level is reduced. However, regardless of this the 5.56×45 is a loud round even when suppressed because the round is breaking the sound barrier which creates a sonic boom.

So how quiet can you expect your AR-15 to be with a suppressor? It’s a hard question to answer and depends on barrel length, ammunition and the suppressor being used. In general, a 16 inch AR-15 firing standard M193 produces a decibel level of around 167 dB give or take depending on environmental conditions. Averaging out a couple of the leading suppressors in the industry you see an average noise level of around 136 db with a suppressor attached. Which is a significant reduction. For comparison’s sake an unsuppressed 22lr rifle typically falls in the 130 dB range.

An AR-15 can be made quieter by firing sub-sonic ammunition however, the AR-15 will not cycle properly. There are several great calibers out there available for the AR-15 platform that allows the use of sub-sonic ammunition along with reliable functioning. Many choose to stick with 5.56×45 for ammo availability, familiarity and commonality among several other weapons that they may own. For the purpose of this article, we will primarily concern ourselves with suppressing the AR-15 in 5.56.

Chasing Those Decibels

Some try to buy suppressors based soley on the decibel level produced. However, there are several other things to consider when it comes to sound. Tone is the relative pitch and strength of the sound that the suppressor produces. I’ve found that tone can make a suppressor with a higher decibel level sound quieter. The Surefire SOCOM556 RC gives on average a decibel level of 139 dB. This is louder than many competitors on the market however I’ve found the tone to be deep and pleasing. If you have the chance listen to different suppressors at local matches or shoots. If this is not possible, try searching on many of the dedicated suppressor forums that dot the internet. Many people will be able to comment on the tone of a certain suppressor and whether they like it or not. Understand that it is the internet however.

Daniel Defense MK18 with Surefire SOCOM556-RC suppressor mounted.

Length and Weight

Size matters. Add a 6-inch suppressor to the end of your 16-inch barrel and you now have a 20 inch plus barrel. Although these suppressors typically weigh in at 1 pound, it is a pound at the very end of your rifle and that weight will quickly add up. The shorter your suppressor becomes the less effective it becomes at sound suppression. The lighter it becomes the less it can handle heat. There are trade-offs to made everywhere. You need to determine what type of shooting you’re going to be doing and precisely what you need from your suppressor.

Gas blowback

A suppressor traps a lot of gas. It also increases the dwell time at your gas port. All of this leads to an excess amount of gas coming your way and exiting around the charging handle to sting your eyes. There are several fixes available. An adjustable gas block will allow you to adjust the amount of gas being tapped off from the barrel thus eliminating much of the excess gas. Gemtech makes a suppressed bolt carrier group which can vent the excess gas out the side of the carrier. Finally, there is charging handles that are made to deal with excess gas from suppressors or conversely you can use Permatex RTV (a silicon sealant) to close the gap between the charging handle and the upper receiver to disallow the excess gas from reaching your face. Some suppressor manufacturers add an expansion chamber or an internal venting system to help reduce back pressure and when used in combination with the above products can make for a pleasurable shooting experience.

Them suppressors get hot

Each successive shot is going to raise the temperature of the suppressor fairly quickly. There are a variety of factors that come into play but some information puts that number at around 7-10 degrees Fahrenheit each round fired. A 30 round magazine would then increase the temperature by over 240 degrees Fahrenheit. Suppressors can get hot enough during a course of fire that if you transition to your sidearm and let your rifle hang down and it touches your pants, it could burn a hole straight through them. Many companies tell you to limit your strings of fire. If my memory serves me correct several different suppressor manuals state that strings of fire of over 90 rounds should not be attempted. If you use a suppressor, I’d recommend a good pair of heat resistant gloves. If your aim is long-range shooting be aware that as the suppressor gets hot those waves of heat will rise and could distort the view of your target through the optic. This can be mitigated to some extent by the use of a suppressor cover.

A good mount is vital. Also, automotive anti-seize on the threads helps quite a bit as well.

Mount it

One of the often overlooked aspects of a suppressor is the mount. Why is a mount important? It could be the difference between a good day of shooting or a terrible day in which a poorly aligned suppressor leads to a 5.56 slug striking a suppressor baffle or the endcap of the silencer. It could also be the difference between your suppressor freezing hard to your muzzle device or coming off easily. There are many mounting options out there. Make sure you do your research and pick one which has a reputation for strength and ease of use. A quick word of advice, no matter how good the mount is I would advise putting a small amount of automotive anti-seize lubricant on the threads or lock up location.

Increased bolt carrier velocity

If you don’t manage your excess gas you’re going to have an increase in the velocity of the bolt carrier group. Many individuals control this by added a heavier buffer to their rifle in order to slow it down. A popular option is to utilize the Vltor A5 recoil system which in a nutshell uses a rifle length spring along with a special buffer. On most rifles, the standard weight buffer (A5H0) will work fine, although you can toy with a slightly heavier buffer in order to fine tune your rifle. On over-gassed rifles, such as the Daniel Defense Mk18, I’ve opted for a specialty heavyweight 6.8 oz buffer to calm the vicious speed that occurs when a suppressor is mounted to an already over-gassed system.

What good is my suppressor then?

Almost complete reduction of flash for night shooting. If you’ve ever had the opportunity to fire a rifle at night you can appreciate the amount of flash that is made. A suppressor (depending on make and model) will eliminate most of that. This makes shooting with night vision goggles an absolute pleasure as they are not getting washed out constantly by the muzzle blast. It obviously has it’s uses in a tactical environment as well. An enemy unable to pinpoint your location due to the reduced flash could, in some cases, be the difference between life and death.

Further, a suppressor helps reduce felt recoil due to the added weight at the muzzle as well as the reduction in speed of the propellant gasses. I’ve also found that the quiet report and lack of muzzle flash aids in rapid strings of fire or target transition. On average my timed drills are somewhat faster than without a suppressor even though my rifle weighs more and feels unwieldy.

Finally and perhaps most importantly, when a suppressor is paired with ear pro you protect your hearing even better. Hearing damage is cumulative gentlemen, and investing in a suppressor when you’re younger could perhaps help mitigate hearing damage later in life. For those who already engage in shouting matches due to loss of hearing, a suppressor could help preserve what you have left.

What motivates many to buy a suppressor is the combination of noise reduction, muzzle flash reduction, recoil reduction and protection of their hearing long-term. There are drawbacks when suppressing the AR-15 however I strongly feel that the pros outweigh the cons. A suppressor is an investment. Buy once, cry once has never been truer.

How To Choose A Rifle Scope: The only guide you’ll need to read

Finding the right scope is like running through a maze, you don’t know WHERE you’re going. Couple that with the countless landmines of confusing technical jargon, specs, acronyms — and you might be in the maze for LIFE.

Not good.

That’s why I wrote this article — to help serve as a guide through the scope maze. In fact: This will be the LAST guide you’ll ever have to read to find the right scope…for YOU.

Let’s dig in!

Magnification

This is the part 99% of people screw up on. They either buy TOO much magnification or too little — ESPECIALLY when buying the best AR-15 rifle scope. Rest assured — you won’t make that mistake after reading this. So, let’s first start off by defining magnification.

Magnification is how much closer you can see the target than a naked eye.

For example, if the magnification is 2X that means you can see TWO TIMES closer than the naked eye. Easy enough?

So…

How Do You Find Magnification?

It’s usually the first number (or range of numbers) on a scope. For example: if a scope says 3×32… then the first number (‘3’) is the magnification. However, if it says 2-7×32… then the first range of numbers (2-7) is the magnification. In other words: you can choose a magnification between 2-7X. Because of this, there are actually two scope types:

Fixed power scope
Variable power scope.

Fixed power scope means there’s only 1 magnification (Ex: 3X), while variable allows you to choose from a range of magnifications (Ex: 2-7X).

Easy, right? But…which should you choose?

Fixed Power vs Variable Power

That depends on your use. If you require more than one magnification, then go for the variable. However, fixed power scopes are faster, higher quality, and cost less. So, keep that in mind when you’re choosing your scope. Don’t worry about making a decision now — we’ll touch on that in just a bit. But for now, let’s answer the lingering question that we left unanswered:

**How Much Magnification Do You Need?**

This is HIGHLY dependent on your rifle usage. If you use your rifle primarily for small game or homestead defense (>100 yards), then go for a magnification between 1 – 4x. Pro Tip: Go for a fixed power scope. It’ll make your short-range encounters faster.

However, if you use your rifle primarily for hunting large game in forests or mountains (>200 yards), then go for a magnification between 5 – 8x. Or, if you’re a sniper that hunts in fields or deserts (200+ yards), then go for a magnification between 9 – 12x. Simple enough, right? Now that you have your magnification, the next thing to find is the right…

Objective Lens

The objective lens is the lens at the end of the scope. The size of the objective lens is usually found at the END of the numbers (or after the x). For example: 3x32 means it has a 32mm objective lens. What about if it’s a variable scope? Same thing.

For example: 2-7x35 means it has a 35mm objective lens.

Understood? Cool. So…

WHY Is Objective Lens Important?

In layman’s terms: The more objective lens you have, the clearer and brighter your scope will look. However, it does come at a costly price. Larger objective lenses mean smaller scope rings, a heavier scope, and it may even give away your position due to the reflection of sunlight off the lens. So be careful.

With that said…

How Much Objective Lens Do You Need?

If you hunt in close range (>100 yards) with low recoil, go for 28mm & under.

If you hunt in medium to long range (150+ yards) with medium recoil, go for 30-44mm. (Also great for low-light hunters.)

And finally, if you’re solely a long range shooter, then go for 50mm & up objective lens.

With your magnification and objective lens in hand, now it’s time to talk…

Rifle Scope Lens Coatings

This is usually the second feature advertised. It may come packaged in fancy names, however ALL rifle coats fall under one of these criteria:

Coated: They cover at least one surface of the scope in one layer. The budget man’s package.
Fully-Coated: They cover ALL external glass surfaces in a single layer. The standard package.
Multicoated: They cover at least one surface in several layers. The upgraded package.
Fully Multicoated: They pamper ALL your scope’s external glass surfaces in several layers. The luxury package.

Which Rifle Coat Should You Choose?

Most scopes today are fully multi-coated. In fact: Over 90% of the scopes I’ve reviewed on my site so far are fully multi-coated. And if it’s not fully multi-coated, don’t sweat it — coats don’t make up for poor glass quality. However, something you DO have to sweat is…

Scope Reticles

The reticle is the crosshair (or the aiming point) you see. This will either make shooting easier or harder.

Here’s the best reticle to choose based on your use:

Duplex

If you’re a hunter or target shooter, go for a Duplex. It’s the simplest and fastest reticle to use.

Mildot

If what you’re shooting is a life and death situation (like the Military), go for a Mildot. It helps estimate target’s distance.

BDC

This is for the long-range shooter. Sure, it takes longer to use, however it helps adjust for bullet drop. Insanely useful for long distance shots.

But which to choose? If you hypothetically put a gun to my head (please don’t) and said: “Choose a reticle or die!” I’d honestly go for the Duplex. It’s easy, fast, and it plain up WORKS. But don’t take my word for it. Instead, test all these reticles and see which one you like best. The best reticle is the one YOU prefer.

With that said, it’s time to talk…

Focal Planes

This is the most common scope question I get asked: “Should I choose the First Focal Plane or Second Focal Plane?”

Here’s the straight up answer: go for second focal plane. Here’s why: For most general situations, the second focal plane works better. It’s cheaper and doesn’t obscure your view while the first focal plane does. That said, should you ever go with first focal plane? In only one condition: If you’re a long-range shooter (10X+ magnification).

The reason? It’s more accurate as the reticle size adjusts as you move up in magnification. Yet for most general situations, go for a second focal plane. It won’t disappoint. Once you’ve got your focal plane selected, it’s now time to discuss adjustment systems…

Minute of Angle (MOA) vs Milradian (MRAD)

To be completely honest, this part doesn’t matter much, but I’ll cover it anyway. So, which adjustment system is better: MOA vs MRAD? The straight up answer? Neither.

In fact, they operate interchangeably like miles per hour and kilometers per hour. Just choose an adjustment system your hunting buddies use. If you don’t know what your buddies use, just opt-in for MOA. It’s easier and more popular. Simple.

Let’s move onto…

Parallax

Parallax is bad. It happens when your scope’s reticle kind of bobs around with your head movement. Not good. If left unchecked, it can lead to bluriness, fuzziness, and missed shots. You want as LITTLE of parallax as possible for maximum accuracy.

The good news? There’s a way to…

Kill Parallax

This is dependent on the scope (and cheekweld). Scopes usually correct parallax in one of three ways:

Factory-Set. Parallax adjustment is built-in the scope by the manufacturer. This will be advertised.
Adjustable Objective (AO). This corrects parallax through a ring on the objective lens.
Third Turret. Move this knob to correct the parallax.

With that said, which option is best? They all do their job. Obviously the factory-set will be the easiest, but don’t worry about it too much. Only look at parallax adjustment as a tiebreaker between scopes. Speaking of tiebreakers, there’s one core feature that breaks all ties…

Windage and Elevation Turrets

This is by FAR the most important part. Actually, if these knobs (turrets) don’t work, you WON’T be able to zero your scope properly. In other words: You won’t be able to shoot JACK–So it matters. Here’s what you’ve got to know about windage and elevation:

First, make sure the turrets produce a loud “click” sound when they adjust. That way you know when you’ve adjusted. This is usually mentioned in the reviews.

Second, make sure the turrets are reliable. Don’t listen to the advertisers. Instead, read what people say about the turrets’ reliability.

Once you’ve done that, you’ll have found reliable windage and elevation turrets. Now, it’s time for the last important feature…

Eye Relief

Do this part wrong and you’ll look like Mad Eye Moody from Harry Potter. Do you want to look like him? I hope not. (If you do, you’ve got bigger problems than scopes).

Here’s how to save your eye (and comfort) from pain with proper eye relief. Let’s start off by defining eye relief: Eye relief is the distance between your eye and the lens you look through (ocular lens). If your weapon is higher recoil, you’ll need more eye relief. And vice versa for lower recoil.

In short: Aim for at least 3.5 – 4 inches of solid eye relief. Simple enough. With that, you now know EXACTLY what makes a good scope. But the million dollar question remains…

How Much Should You Spend On A Scope?

Here’s the ugly truth: It depends. You can be spending anywhere from $50 up to $1,000+. There’s really no ‘optimal’ amount to spend on a scope. Why? It’s HIGHLY dependent on your rifle, caliber, and usage. But you now know what makes the very best scope. The next part is easy:

Find The Scope That Calls Out To You

Yes, it’s true… you’re going to have to do a BIT of Googling before finding the right scope for you. That’s part of the process. Alternatively, if you’re having trouble finding the right scope for your rifle, visit my site: Scopes Field.

I’ve actually reviewed (and hand-tested) scopes for almost EVERY major rifle and calibers (like the Mini 14). So if you’re having problems finding a good rifle scope, then feel free to stop by for some tips.

And there you go! You’re now fully armed with EVERYTHING you need to know about choosing a rifle scope. Now go out there and buy yourself a great scope!

Feature image: U.S. Marine Corps photo by Lance Cpl. Alexis B. Betances

Author Bio:

Richard Douglas is a scopes expert with over 10 years of hands-on experience and has been featured on Burris Optics, War History Online and more. No wonder his friends call him the “James Bond of Scopes.” Richard now spends most of his time reviewing scopes and sharing his exclusive findings on his blog, Scopes Field.

How to paint your AR-15/M4 Rifle

In the following video, I take a quick moment to discuss some of the finer points of painting a rifle. Materials needed, patterns and color are all discussed while I demonstrate how I paint my rifles.

Adaptive Tactical’s EX Performance Adjustable Stocks – Not Just for AR’s

The EX Performance Stock is a Perfect Pairing on the VR80

I love my VR80 shotgun but I didn’t love the OEM stock and handle. Adaptive Tactical provided me a solution that was more than just aesthetics.

EX Performance Adjustable Stock

The EX Performance Adjustable Stock from Adaptive Tactical comes with a non-slip vented rubber recoil pad that takes the oomph out of the 12-gauge round. The rubber recoil pad decreases felt recoil and reduces shooter fatigue.

The rapid adjustment lever is easy to reach and comes with a QD and standard swivel attachments.

Easy to Install

The stock was super easy to install after removing the grip and OEM stock off of the VR80. I removed the cover off of the butt pad, removed the retention screw, unscrewed the grip, and slid the original stock and grip off of the VR80.

MIL-SPEC

The Adaptive Tactical stock is compatible with MIL-SPEC extension tubes like that used on the VR80. I simply lifted the lever and slid it on. It was really that easy to install.

Make Sure You Get A Grip

Be sure to have a new pistol grip to install on the VR80 when you go to the Adaptive Tactical EX Performance Adjustable Stock as it will no longer be the unibrow version anymore.

The Adaptive Tactical Stock is 7.25” in length, 2” in width, and 5.25” tall.

Made in the USA

Adaptive Tactical EX Performance Stocks are made in the USA and are rugged, adjustable, and decreases felt recoil!

While the EX Performance Stock is marketed for AR15/AR10 rifles it also works perfectly on the VR80!

If you haven’t seen our review of the VR80 from Rock Island Armory, check it out!

Check out these great deals on Adaptive Tactical gear:

V-TAB from Fast Acquisition: Accuracy Through Design

The V-TAB or Vertical Tactical Adjustable Buttstock from Fast Acquisition is a design concept to help the rifle shooter obtain a proper cheek weld when shooting. I’m surprised somebody hasn’t thought to build this product already!

When working with newer rifle shooters on the AR-15 style platform that have some experience on hunting style rifles, they often struggle with placement of the buttstock. Down in the pocket of the arm isn’t always the best place for that beautiful black rifle. With the V-TAB from Fast Acquisition, that new (or stubborn seasoned shooter) will be obtaining a proper cheek weld and placing the stock in the pocket for shooting due to its quick vertical adjustments.

The V-TAB M in the up for prone or bench rest shooting position

The V-TAB adjusts vertically in seconds with no tools. Once installed using the original or aftermarket buttpad, you are able to adjust up and down in seven different positions to accommodate standing, kneeling, benchrest, or prone stances and have the best sight to eye alignment possible. Click here to watch a video of the V-TAB in use.

The VTAB is machined from tough Delrin adding hardly any weight (6.7 oz.) to your build and increases the length of your buttpad by only 1.5″.

If you’re looking to bring accuracy to the next level of your black rifle build, you should consider adding the V-TAB from Fast Acquisition and “bring the gun-sight to your eye, not your eye to the gunsight.”

The V-TAB M in the center configuration adds minimal weight and length but maximum adjustment

The V-TAB fits on Magpul MOE 310 + 400, CTR, STR, ACS, ACS-L UBR and they are working on new designs everyday to add to the line up. Model shown is the V-TAB-M with an MSRP of $69.95, click here to buy now.