AK47

How to field strip and clean an AK series rifle

A well made AK variant can be incredibly reliable and accurate believe it or not. It still requires routine maintenance to stay at this level of overall quality though. Sure, you can neglect the rifle or run it dry (unlubricated) but it’s not the most ideal state of operation; for any weapon system for that matter. Basic cleaning of an AK is extremely quick and easy though, it can be done with a rag and some solution alone but of course utilizing proper cleaning equipment is ideal. So for this process I will discuss the field expedient steps for cleaning it in an undesirable environment. This process will not cover all the different AK based designs and their minute mechanical differences, however it will apply to the most common variants.

Before you can clean anything, we need to break the rifle down first. Before doing any disassembly we should remove the magazine and make sure that the rifle is unloaded. After this has been accomplished, we start by removing the dust cover. To do this, push the button on the rear of the dust cover forward and lift up the cover with the other hand; It should pop right off, but some can be snug or loose depending on wear. With the dust cover removed we are going to remove the spring/buffer assembly by pushing that same button forward until the entire rod/spring pops out of its fixture in the rear trunnion.

Next we remove the bolt carrier group/op-rod assembly, make sure the hammer is down and take the safety off. Then pull the BCG to the rear of the receiver and slide it up through the opening at the rear trunnion; it should lift out easily because of tension from the hammer underneath it. the bolt should twist out of the carrier in a clockwise motion with little effort.

After we set that aside, we need to remove the gas-tube contained within the top portion of the handguard. This can be achieved by flipping a small lever on the right side of the rear-sight block. By pushing the lever up into a point of alignment, the gas tube will lift up and out but, again, some variants may be a tighter fit than others.

Ok, we are ready to do a basic clean or field expedient cleaning of the rifle. So essentially we are going to use a rag and cleaning/lubricating solution (or not if you don’t have any on you) to wipe down everything. While it’s important to do your best to remove as much carbon, dirt, or grim as possible, the purpose of a field clean is to make sure the AK will function acceptably so it’s okay if it’s not perfectly clean after we’re done.

Start by wiping down the bolt carrier group. Ensure to make a pass at all the nooks and crannies, especially the surfaces where the bolt rotates and the bolt-face. Then wipe down the piston head on the op-rod; take note here because a lot of the carbon found here will be caked on, so don’t worry too much unless you’re doing a full cleaning. Next give the spring/buffer a few passes with the rag. Next wipe out the gas-tube as best you can but it usually doesn’t get too bad. Finally, the internal components should be wiped down along with the receiver walls/rails. If it’s possible, use the AK’s cleaning rod (if it has one it will be under the barrel, running parallel to it) to punch the bore and barrel with some cloth soaked in cleaning solution.

Now that everything has been quickly scrubbed/wiped down with the rag and cleaning/lubricating solution, we can re-assemble the rifle if we are only doing some quick maintenance/cleaning. This whole process can be relevant during a trip to the range, in a training/field exercise, or being in an operational environment. By maintaining a minimal level of maintenance like this, the AK weapons platform will serve you well, provided it is of quality to begin with.

*Originally published on NEWSREP and written by Kurt T

How To Choose A Rifle Scope: The only guide you’ll need to read

Finding the right scope is like running through a maze, you don’t know WHERE you’re going. Couple that with the countless landmines of confusing technical jargon, specs, acronyms — and you might be in the maze for LIFE.

Not good.

That’s why I wrote this article — to help serve as a guide through the scope maze. In fact: This will be the LAST guide you’ll ever have to read to find the right scope…for YOU.

Let’s dig in!

Magnification

This is the part 99% of people screw up on. They either buy TOO much magnification or too little — ESPECIALLY when buying the best AR-15 rifle scope. Rest assured — you won’t make that mistake after reading this. So, let’s first start off by defining magnification.

Magnification is how much closer you can see the target than a naked eye.

For example, if the magnification is 2X that means you can see TWO TIMES closer than the naked eye. Easy enough?

So…

How Do You Find Magnification?

It’s usually the first number (or range of numbers) on a scope. For example: if a scope says 3×32… then the first number (‘3’) is the magnification. However, if it says 2-7×32… then the first range of numbers (2-7) is the magnification. In other words: you can choose a magnification between 2-7X. Because of this, there are actually two scope types:

Fixed power scope
Variable power scope.

Fixed power scope means there’s only 1 magnification (Ex: 3X), while variable allows you to choose from a range of magnifications (Ex: 2-7X).

Easy, right? But…which should you choose?

Fixed Power vs Variable Power

That depends on your use. If you require more than one magnification, then go for the variable. However, fixed power scopes are faster, higher quality, and cost less. So, keep that in mind when you’re choosing your scope. Don’t worry about making a decision now — we’ll touch on that in just a bit. But for now, let’s answer the lingering question that we left unanswered:

**How Much Magnification Do You Need?**

This is HIGHLY dependent on your rifle usage. If you use your rifle primarily for small game or homestead defense (>100 yards), then go for a magnification between 1 – 4x. Pro Tip: Go for a fixed power scope. It’ll make your short-range encounters faster.

However, if you use your rifle primarily for hunting large game in forests or mountains (>200 yards), then go for a magnification between 5 – 8x. Or, if you’re a sniper that hunts in fields or deserts (200+ yards), then go for a magnification between 9 – 12x. Simple enough, right? Now that you have your magnification, the next thing to find is the right…

Objective Lens

The objective lens is the lens at the end of the scope. The size of the objective lens is usually found at the END of the numbers (or after the x). For example: 3x32 means it has a 32mm objective lens. What about if it’s a variable scope? Same thing.

For example: 2-7x35 means it has a 35mm objective lens.

Understood? Cool. So…

WHY Is Objective Lens Important?

In layman’s terms: The more objective lens you have, the clearer and brighter your scope will look. However, it does come at a costly price. Larger objective lenses mean smaller scope rings, a heavier scope, and it may even give away your position due to the reflection of sunlight off the lens. So be careful.

With that said…

How Much Objective Lens Do You Need?

If you hunt in close range (>100 yards) with low recoil, go for 28mm & under.

If you hunt in medium to long range (150+ yards) with medium recoil, go for 30-44mm. (Also great for low-light hunters.)

And finally, if you’re solely a long range shooter, then go for 50mm & up objective lens.

With your magnification and objective lens in hand, now it’s time to talk…

Rifle Scope Lens Coatings

This is usually the second feature advertised. It may come packaged in fancy names, however ALL rifle coats fall under one of these criteria:

Coated: They cover at least one surface of the scope in one layer. The budget man’s package.
Fully-Coated: They cover ALL external glass surfaces in a single layer. The standard package.
Multicoated: They cover at least one surface in several layers. The upgraded package.
Fully Multicoated: They pamper ALL your scope’s external glass surfaces in several layers. The luxury package.

Which Rifle Coat Should You Choose?

Most scopes today are fully multi-coated. In fact: Over 90% of the scopes I’ve reviewed on my site so far are fully multi-coated. And if it’s not fully multi-coated, don’t sweat it — coats don’t make up for poor glass quality. However, something you DO have to sweat is…

Scope Reticles

The reticle is the crosshair (or the aiming point) you see. This will either make shooting easier or harder.

Here’s the best reticle to choose based on your use:

Duplex

If you’re a hunter or target shooter, go for a Duplex. It’s the simplest and fastest reticle to use.

Mildot

If what you’re shooting is a life and death situation (like the Military), go for a Mildot. It helps estimate target’s distance.

BDC

This is for the long-range shooter. Sure, it takes longer to use, however it helps adjust for bullet drop. Insanely useful for long distance shots.

But which to choose? If you hypothetically put a gun to my head (please don’t) and said: “Choose a reticle or die!” I’d honestly go for the Duplex. It’s easy, fast, and it plain up WORKS. But don’t take my word for it. Instead, test all these reticles and see which one you like best. The best reticle is the one YOU prefer.

With that said, it’s time to talk…

Focal Planes

This is the most common scope question I get asked: “Should I choose the First Focal Plane or Second Focal Plane?”

Here’s the straight up answer: go for second focal plane. Here’s why: For most general situations, the second focal plane works better. It’s cheaper and doesn’t obscure your view while the first focal plane does. That said, should you ever go with first focal plane? In only one condition: If you’re a long-range shooter (10X+ magnification).

The reason? It’s more accurate as the reticle size adjusts as you move up in magnification. Yet for most general situations, go for a second focal plane. It won’t disappoint. Once you’ve got your focal plane selected, it’s now time to discuss adjustment systems…

Minute of Angle (MOA) vs Milradian (MRAD)

To be completely honest, this part doesn’t matter much, but I’ll cover it anyway. So, which adjustment system is better: MOA vs MRAD? The straight up answer? Neither.

In fact, they operate interchangeably like miles per hour and kilometers per hour. Just choose an adjustment system your hunting buddies use. If you don’t know what your buddies use, just opt-in for MOA. It’s easier and more popular. Simple.

Let’s move onto…

Parallax

Parallax is bad. It happens when your scope’s reticle kind of bobs around with your head movement. Not good. If left unchecked, it can lead to bluriness, fuzziness, and missed shots. You want as LITTLE of parallax as possible for maximum accuracy.

The good news? There’s a way to…

Kill Parallax

This is dependent on the scope (and cheekweld). Scopes usually correct parallax in one of three ways:

Factory-Set. Parallax adjustment is built-in the scope by the manufacturer. This will be advertised.
Adjustable Objective (AO). This corrects parallax through a ring on the objective lens.
Third Turret. Move this knob to correct the parallax.

With that said, which option is best? They all do their job. Obviously the factory-set will be the easiest, but don’t worry about it too much. Only look at parallax adjustment as a tiebreaker between scopes. Speaking of tiebreakers, there’s one core feature that breaks all ties…

Windage and Elevation Turrets

This is by FAR the most important part. Actually, if these knobs (turrets) don’t work, you WON’T be able to zero your scope properly. In other words: You won’t be able to shoot JACK–So it matters. Here’s what you’ve got to know about windage and elevation:

First, make sure the turrets produce a loud “click” sound when they adjust. That way you know when you’ve adjusted. This is usually mentioned in the reviews.

Second, make sure the turrets are reliable. Don’t listen to the advertisers. Instead, read what people say about the turrets’ reliability.

Once you’ve done that, you’ll have found reliable windage and elevation turrets. Now, it’s time for the last important feature…

Eye Relief

Do this part wrong and you’ll look like Mad Eye Moody from Harry Potter. Do you want to look like him? I hope not. (If you do, you’ve got bigger problems than scopes).

Here’s how to save your eye (and comfort) from pain with proper eye relief. Let’s start off by defining eye relief: Eye relief is the distance between your eye and the lens you look through (ocular lens). If your weapon is higher recoil, you’ll need more eye relief. And vice versa for lower recoil.

In short: Aim for at least 3.5 – 4 inches of solid eye relief. Simple enough. With that, you now know EXACTLY what makes a good scope. But the million dollar question remains…

How Much Should You Spend On A Scope?

Here’s the ugly truth: It depends. You can be spending anywhere from $50 up to $1,000+. There’s really no ‘optimal’ amount to spend on a scope. Why? It’s HIGHLY dependent on your rifle, caliber, and usage. But you now know what makes the very best scope. The next part is easy:

Find The Scope That Calls Out To You

Yes, it’s true… you’re going to have to do a BIT of Googling before finding the right scope for you. That’s part of the process. Alternatively, if you’re having trouble finding the right scope for your rifle, visit my site: Scopes Field.

I’ve actually reviewed (and hand-tested) scopes for almost EVERY major rifle and calibers (like the Mini 14). So if you’re having problems finding a good rifle scope, then feel free to stop by for some tips.

And there you go! You’re now fully armed with EVERYTHING you need to know about choosing a rifle scope. Now go out there and buy yourself a great scope!

Feature image: U.S. Marine Corps photo by Lance Cpl. Alexis B. Betances

Author Bio:

Richard Douglas is a scopes expert with over 10 years of hands-on experience and has been featured on Burris Optics, War History Online and more. No wonder his friends call him the “James Bond of Scopes.” Richard now spends most of his time reviewing scopes and sharing his exclusive findings on his blog, Scopes Field.

MTM Tactical Mag Can: A protected method of storage for loaded magazines

How do you store your magazines? I don’t mean loaded or unloaded, but where do you physically put them? It’s easy when you only have a few, you can store them anywhere. Once you get past a dozen they tend to be a pain to stack, easy to misplace, and generally stay in the way. The same goes for transport and storage in a vehicle. A range bag only goes so far. My Mini home armory was a mess of magazine, seemingly laid around in no particular order. Until my wife, the queen of organizing, went birthday shopping and purchased the MTM Tactical Mag Can.

MTM Tactical Mag Can overview

It is built like any other ammo can, but it’s wider and features foam cut outs to fit 15 magazines in a standing position. This model is made specifically for the AR style magazine, but models are available for the AK, single stack handgun magazines, and double stack handgun magazines. The MTM Tactical Mag can is easily stackable, and is almost perfectly square.

The box is a lot bigger than you’d picture and you get a healthy amount of room between magazines. You can easily insert and remove mags. The lid has two latches that snap close, and between and in the right and left of the latches have holes cut for locks.

Fits Just Right

What dictates if the MTM Tactical mag can is a winner or a loser is how the foam cuts work. Are they cut purely for mil-spec aluminum magazines? This would make them too tight for most polymer magazines. Are they cut short and the magazines easily work their way out? Then you’d have mags flopping around during transport.

The good news is the magazine cuts seem just right. I’ve fit Hexmags, Aluminum mags, Pmags, ETS mags, 2nd Amendment mags, Thermolds, Lancers, and more in the foam and they fit perfectly. The foam cuts are high enough to keep the mags secure as well.

This is certainly the easiest way to transport mags in bulk between home and the range. Especially if you’re like me and prefer to load before you go. If you’ll notice in my pictures I have fit a total of 22 magazines in the case. It;s a total of 15 standard AR magazines, 1 5 round magazine, and 6 Scorpion 9mm magazines. You can fit pistol magazines with ease between the rifle mags if you choose to maximize space.

Size Restrictions

If you are curious this thing is only made for 30 round magazines. Well, 32 for Daniel Defense magazines. Magpul 40 rounders are not compatible. The 5 rounds I have is a ten round mag permanently altered to five rounds, it’s just long enough to fit and be removed easily. Anything shorter than a 10 round magazine would be a bit short.

Getting Organized.

To my wife’s chagrin, I’ve now bought another and figured I need to really fill it up to be useful. So more mag purchases are necessary. The MTM Tactical Mag Can is an excellent item for any man room or home armory. It’s also pretty affordable at around 20 bucks on Amazon. A perfect gift for the fellow gun lover.

Top five preferred weapon modifications

Everyone, civilian or military, who enjoys weapons loves to trick out their gun. We all have personal preferences to how we set up our firearms to cater to our own style of shooting. Maybe it’s the technique that dictates the specific placement of certain mods, it could be purpose-driven reasons for particular accessories, or maybe it’s just simple aesthetics and we like the way it makes the weapon look. The following are my top favorite modifications to weapons and why I chose them.

Tritium Iron Sights

I love optics, especially dual systems such as the Trijicon ECOS where a red dot is mounted on top of a magnified optic with BDC (Bullet Drop Compensated) reticle. For close quarters based weapons, I prefer a solid red dot generally consisting of a 2 moa dot and more importantly I want it to co-witness with my Iron Sights. But before I ever go to an optic, I always select a quality pair of Iron sights with tritium inserts. This was something I always liked the idea of but after several night fights, and engagements where all I had was a set of Tritium backed irons, I realized it was a must for any weapon. There are a plethora of makes and models out there, something for the whole family. When you’re in the dark and you have to rapidly and accurately engage threats, tritiums are a force multiplier not to be underestimated.

The Magpul BAD Lever

This device is specific to right-handed shooters. An attachment designed specifically designed for the M4/M16 and AR series of rifles, the Battery Assist Device mounts to the bolt release paddle located on the left side of the receiver. Not only does this piece of kit allow you to shave time off of reloads but it gives the end user the ability to fix a malfunction with speed and ease. By simply lifting your trigger finger and moving the lever up while pulling the charging handle to the rear, the bolt will lock back allowing the shooter to maintain positive control of the weapon while clearing the stoppage. When the problem has been solved or a fresh mag has been inserted, the shooter simply pushes the lever in and the bolt is released. With practice, this is a game changer for manual of arms.

Aftermarket Pistol Grip

There are many different models out there that span over several different weapon systems, but personally, I’d have to say my favorites are Bravo Company USA and Magpul. Both models of grips offer a more extreme vertical angle allowing the shooter to adopt a more squared-up posture when shooting, which is good for me because I favor the isosceles stance. They also fill up the hand better, giving me a more solid grip on the rifle which equals more control.

PMags

Good magazines are the heart of a properly functioning weapon and you can’t beat a Pmag for the price/performance. Made up of a polymer body, (the AK pmags have metal lip inserts to prevent breaking due to the way an AK magazine functions) coupled with a spring and anti-tilt follower the Pmag is simply the finest. They work and have been fielded heavily since their introduction into the shooting scene. Not much else to say about them; simple, effective and affordable.

NVGs and IR Lasers

Now my absolute favorite addition to shooting is night vision and to make that addition even more effective, a solid Infrared laser. Obvious by my Tritium sights bit, I’m a huge fan of night operations. When it comes to shooting at night, the man who can see in the dark is god; especially when the enemy cannot. This is a luxury I am not afforded in the Peshmerga; but if I could have anything it would be this. (Not to mention when you’re rocking all that ninja gear you look cool as fuck.) Being dependant on NVGs is a weakness, but if you can learn to be proficient in the dark without them, the moment you have them you’re that much better off.

Originally published on The NEWSREP

Full-Auto vesus Semi-Auto

I grew up in a family full of Veterans and one of my favorite memories was heading to coffee with my Grandpa Jim and all the other WW2 Vets in town. Hearing the way they bullshitted with each other left a strong impression. Deja Vu set in once I joined the Army, as hearing a group of Rangers (or when near my brother, Marines) bullshit in the modern era doesn’t sound much different at all. Ditto to the few Vietnam Veterans I’ve had the pleasure of hearing stories from. While “shooters preference” may be a common term in training, it leads to the very best of arguments outside of the range.

Such is the nature of the argument of “Full-Auto” versus “Semi-Auto”. There are no brainless politicians in my perfect world, so we’re not mentioning “Fully Semi-Auto”. While every combat Vet I’ve talked with has agreed full-auto has an appropriate time and place for it’s use, there’s a bit of gray area as to just when you’ll want to use it, and as to how much training you’ll need ahead of time to be effective while using it.

Below are two videos covering the old “Full versus Semi” argument. The first if by YouTube user Hickok45 and demonstrates the M4/AR platform at close range, against menacing water jugs. The second video is by the legend Larry Vickers on his YouTube channel Vickers Tactical, where the Delta Force Vet and famous trainer demonstrates the AK platform against three paper targets.

Enjoy and discuss!

-Rex Nanorum

@Rexnanorum

Now, however, it would seem Russia’s military is set to begin fielding two new service rifle platforms — and in characteristic Russian style, they appear to combine elements of their Soviet history

Russia’s new service rifles: Soviet firepower with an American flare

Few rifles have achieved the legendary status of the Soviet rifle of choice: the Kalashnikov AK-47. Its price, reliability and .30 caliber stopping power have made it a favorite among gunslingers everywhere from Third World dictatorships to high-end gun collections. Its legacy even continues to thrive in the Russian military today, in the form of the modernized AK-74 and later, the AK-74M.

However, Russia has long been on the lookout for a more modern replacement for their service rifle. The AK-74M was introduced in the early 1990s, chambered in the same 5.45x39mm as its predecessor but that was the last time Russian troops saw a new platform make its way into service.

There’s good reason for that of course: Russia’s economy, hindered by sanctions established by the United States and other nations as a result of Russian aggression (like the annexation of Crimea in 2014) have left the Russian economy stagnating, forcing officials to prioritize defense initiatives in order of necessity and with an estimated 2 million AK-74s in their inventory, a new service rifle sat patiently on the back burner in favor of more glamorous endeavors like hypersonic missile platforms and massive payload nuclear submersibles.

Now, however, it would seem Russia’s military is set to begin fielding two new service rifle platforms — and in characteristic Russian style, they appear to combine elements of their Soviet history with some modern features that have become commonplace in the militaries of their diplomatic opponents.

The AK-12 and AK-15 are the latest iterations of the storied Kalashnikov line and come chambered in the more recent 5.45x39mm as well as the traditional 7.62x39mm respectively. Why field very similar rifles in two different calibers? Russia hasn’t officially said but it can be safely assumed that Russia has quite a bit of old 7.62 ammunition lying around since the Soviet era. All the brass and lead isn’t free, even if the state of the propellant might be questionable.

With one new platform running their modern ammo and the other using the old, what’s the point of new rifles at all? The answer appears to be in the accessories. Both the AK-12 and 15 have top and bottom Picatinny rails, allowing for the addition of optics and foregrips. While the aftermarket has offered railed solutions for AK platforms in the past, they have never been standard for Russian soldiers before.

New Kalashnikov rifles combine famous, battle-proven high reliability with modern ergonomics, increased hit probability and capabilities to effectively use all modern accessories, from red dot, night and IR sights to underbarrel grenade launchers, forward grips, lasers and flashlights, sound suppressors and more.” Kalashnikov explained in a press release.

Picatinny rails were first developed for use with the M16 service rifle and derive their name from the Picatinny Arsenal in New Jersey, who were responsible for testing and evaluating the rails to serve as a new military standard.

Both rifles will come with thirty-round magazines and both are said to weigh in at 7.7 pounds unloaded making them a bit beefier than an M4 carbine with a full 30 round magazine and even a tad heavier than the AK-74M. That added weight is likely caused by the rails and new buttstock.

According to TASS, a Kremlin-owned media outlet, the new rifles have already started making their way to units but the Russian military has been tight-lipped about when these new rifles will completely replace their dated forefathers. Russia seems interested in exporting the platform, which may ease the cost of production and expedite their deployment.

Images Courtesy of Kalashnikov Media

*Originally published on SOFREP