Manly Skills

No power tools or forges: Here’s how to make a survival knife using just the stuff in your garage

The looming threat of a nuclear attack launched by North Korea has brought about a resurgence in Cold War era anxieties about survival in a post-infrastructure America. If such an attack were to take place, it may not mean the end of the world, per say, but it could certainly mean the end of yours, and in the days, weeks, or months that followed a nuclear or EMP strike, there’s a chance help wouldn’t be on its way.

When you mention such an apocalyptic scenario to many people, the first thing they want to regale you with is a list of their firearms, ammunition stores, and food and water supply. That stuff all matters, and while I too maintain a laundry list of those sorts of things, many tend to forget about what I consider to be among the most important survival tools a man or woman could ever have: a good quality knife.

As I’ve written about before, knives serve a number of purposes in a survival setting. Whether you’re building a fire, preparing a meal, or fighting for your life, having a knife in your hand could mean the difference between today being an easy day, and today being your last one. Even after years of training in knife fighting techniques, armed, and disarmed defenses – I’m arguably more afraid of a skilled combatant with a knife in his hand than I am of the same man armed with a pistol in close quarters. If I can get a grip on that pistol, I’ll probably get out of a fight alive. Try the same thing with a knife, and I may lose a few fingers before he leaves me in a pile on the ground.

The most valuable part of carrying a knife, however, is that you don’t need to have trained to use one outside of the kitchen to be effective. Knives are simple, they don’t jam, they require very little maintenance, and as long as you remember which end is pointy, you’re dangerous when carrying one. For those of you who live in states that are not particularly firearm friendly, or if you’d just prefer to keep your home boom-stick free, knives offer you a legal, inexpensive and relatively safe means of defense to keep inside your home or go bag.

But what if the worst were to happen… and you find yourself without your trusty knife? Is it possible to make a passable survival knife without a forge, power tools, or even electricity?

That’s exactly what I wanted to find out.

Last year, I posted a series of videos depicting all the ways in which I wouldn’t be able to make my own knife. These guys made some incredible pieces of cutlery, but each of the projects were just too far outside my skill set, my budget, and the equipment I have available to me. If making a survival knife is something that’s possible for the layman, it means it’s got to be cheap, simple, and effective using only the sort of things you could easily scrounge up after a disaster.

With that in mind, I swore off of using the internet for guidance and headed into my garage to find whatever I could and see if I could make a passable knife out of it.

Here’s what I came up with:

-One pair of work gloves
-A hack saw with two blades
-One C-clamp
-One hand clamp
-A heavy duty file
-A sharpie

For optimal results, you’ll also need a good knife sharpener of whatever sort you prefer, but in a pinch, you could get away with just the file.
As for the knife itself, I found an old piece of scrap steel that’s been in my basement since I moved in – it was a lucky break, but it likely wouldn’t be too difficult for you to find a decent piece of scrap steel after the world ends either. Mine was about three feet long, one and a half inches wide, and maybe a bit more than 1/16 of an inch thick.

Step One: Cut the steel to the appropriate length

Raw steel next to a Smith and Wesson Search and Rescue knife for scale

Now, you could almost certainly use a ruler or measuring tape to determine the exact length you’d prefer to get started – but in keeping with my overall approach to this project (using as little as possible) and the general demeanor I’ve developed as a new father (“I haven’t slept in six weeks and I don’t care how long it is.”) I opted to just eyeball it, draw a line with my sharpie and go after this poor piece of steel with my hacksaw. The end result is shown above.

Step Two: Draw the basic shape of the knife onto the steel with your sharpie

Using the corner of one side of the steel as your knife tip, draw the basic shape of your knife blade onto the steel. You’ll be using this as your template as you cut the remaining steel away using your hacksaw. Because I did this outside in 20-degree weather, my trusty iPhone shut itself down before I could take a picture of my artwork.

Step Three: Use the hacksaw to cut along your drawn line

Clamp your steel to a secure surface – I used a good sturdy wood table, but if you happen to have a vice it could make this process much easier. Once the knife is secure, put on your work gloves and eye protection and set about sawing along the line you drew on the steel. Depending on the quality of steel and the state of your hacksaw, this step could be both times consuming and count as your cardio for the day. When you’re finished, the steel should resemble a knife in profile, despite lacking an actual edge.

I also chose to make the handle portion of the knife more narrow than the blade itself for the sake of an improved grip. I had to go back inside for my where my weak-willed iPhone was resting by the fire to snap this picture, but as you can see, I also cut notches on the top and bottom of the handle portion in order to make it easier to secure my paracord handle later on.

Step Four: Use the file to create an edge

With the basic shape of the knife established, now it’s time to get your second cardio session in for the day. Clamp the knife down at the end of your table or secure it in your vice and set about filing the steel into an edge. You’ll have to re-position the knife a number of times as you work to ensure you’re achieving a fairly even grind throughout the length of the blade, then flip it over and repeat the process on the other side. If you’re anything like me, you’ll likely have to flip it back and forth a few times as needed to ensure a reasonably even edge emerges.

Step 6: Finish the edge with a knife sharpener

If you have a knife sharpener available to you, use it to refine the edge you started with the file. The sharpener will help you to do away with any small burrs left behind by the sawing and sanding process and create a sharper edge. Although stabs and thrusts are important elements of a knife fight, you can actually do away with an opponent much faster with effective slashes to the carotid artery, for instance, rather than a stab to the gut. Likewise, a sharp edge will make the knife more useful in everyday applications, like making tinder for a fire or cutting meat.

Step Seven: Fashion your handle

The raw steel handle my knife was left with would probably chew up my bare hand almost as quickly as the blade would, so it was important that I fashion a handle for the knife that protects these old callouses I’ve worked so hard to develop over the years. I’m a Marine, so there’s paracord in a dozen places in my house, but there are a number of materials you could feasibly use to the same end: leather straps, cloth, duct tape, even shoelaces.

The sailors among us may have some better suggestions for knots, but because I wasn’t using the internet for guidance, I was forced to rely on what I could remember – so I tied what is commonly known as a “perfection loop” at the end of a length of paracord, then fed the other and through the loop and tightened it onto the top groove of the handle. I then wrapped the paracord around the steel as tightly as possible and secured it again on the other end before repeating the process.

What I was left with is a pretty passable survival knife. From start to finish, the project took about three hours, though it may take you longer if you find yourself gassed from the sawing and filing. All that’s left to do is see how well it holds up when put through its paces. My testing of this knife will be the subject of a subsequent article, so you can see how well it holds up to real-world use.

Hopefully, we won’t find ourselves needing this sort of know-how before then.

Originally published on NEWSREP and written by ALEX HOLLINGS

How to escape handcuffs with a hair pin

Being able to escape handcuffs can be a valuable skill for multiple reasons, the primary one being escaping illegal detainment. Whether traveling abroad as a private citizen or conducting clandestine operations as an elite operative, getting out of a bad situation should be made easier through the pursuit of specialized skills. Getting out of handcuffs is actually a fairly easy task compared to lock picking and other similar problems. There are specialized tools available but for demonstration and practicality purposes, I will be using a run of the mill bobby pin.

First of all, you should be able to access the bobby pin from a cuffed position; If you can, I recommend slipping the cuffs to the front of you because it makes the whole task a lot easier if you can see what you are doing. Keep in mind there are a variety of handcuff designs out there, but I will try to cover the fundamentals while demonstrating on a pair of Peerless Model 700s. There are two options available when using a bobby pin to escape handcuffs, pick the lock or shim past the teeth. Both have their limitations but I find that shimming them is not only faster but often easier to accomplish (especially when your hands are behind your back).

So to knock the hard one out, picking the locking mechanism, you’re going to want to insert the bobby pin into the lock and bend the tip into an “S” shape. From there you use it to first pop the locking pin out if it has been employed, then go the opposite direction and attack the lever that holds the teeth. By applying the right amount of pressure at the correct angle, the bar will lower and the cuff should slide out. Essentially you have created a makeshift key as it functions in the same fashion.

To shim a handcuff is much easier but depending on the shim, in this case the bobby pin, you may need room to tighten them a few clicks. You will still have to defeat the locking mechanism (if it has been engaged) somehow for the teeth to move. Bend the bobby pin into an “L” shape and wedge the end of it in between the cuff’s shackle and the mechanism housing. An important thing to take not of is that this will not work if the bobby pin still has the resin on the tip of it. That will need to either be shaved of prematurely or rubbed against a rough surface to remove it. Once the pin has been inserted, push it in further will simultaneously tightening the cuff for the best results. Eventually the bobby pin will create a barrier between the shackle and the locking bar, enabling the shackle to slide open.

I should note that this is not a skill you want to learn on the fly and practice is going to get you a long way. My disclaimer is that I in no way condone the use of these techniques to break the law or circumvent lawful detainment. That being said, this is a really cool party trick that you can do after a few beers to impress your friends; good luck and you are doing this at your own risk, just saying.

Article written by Kurt T. for Newsrep

How to field strip and clean an AK series rifle

A well made AK variant can be incredibly reliable and accurate believe it or not. It still requires routine maintenance to stay at this level of overall quality though. Sure, you can neglect the rifle or run it dry (unlubricated) but it’s not the most ideal state of operation; for any weapon system for that matter. Basic cleaning of an AK is extremely quick and easy though, it can be done with a rag and some solution alone but of course utilizing proper cleaning equipment is ideal. So for this process I will discuss the field expedient steps for cleaning it in an undesirable environment. This process will not cover all the different AK based designs and their minute mechanical differences, however it will apply to the most common variants.

Before you can clean anything, we need to break the rifle down first. Before doing any disassembly we should remove the magazine and make sure that the rifle is unloaded. After this has been accomplished, we start by removing the dust cover. To do this, push the button on the rear of the dust cover forward and lift up the cover with the other hand; It should pop right off, but some can be snug or loose depending on wear. With the dust cover removed we are going to remove the spring/buffer assembly by pushing that same button forward until the entire rod/spring pops out of its fixture in the rear trunnion.

Next we remove the bolt carrier group/op-rod assembly, make sure the hammer is down and take the safety off. Then pull the BCG to the rear of the receiver and slide it up through the opening at the rear trunnion; it should lift out easily because of tension from the hammer underneath it. the bolt should twist out of the carrier in a clockwise motion with little effort.

After we set that aside, we need to remove the gas-tube contained within the top portion of the handguard. This can be achieved by flipping a small lever on the right side of the rear-sight block. By pushing the lever up into a point of alignment, the gas tube will lift up and out but, again, some variants may be a tighter fit than others.

Ok, we are ready to do a basic clean or field expedient cleaning of the rifle. So essentially we are going to use a rag and cleaning/lubricating solution (or not if you don’t have any on you) to wipe down everything. While it’s important to do your best to remove as much carbon, dirt, or grim as possible, the purpose of a field clean is to make sure the AK will function acceptably so it’s okay if it’s not perfectly clean after we’re done.

Start by wiping down the bolt carrier group. Ensure to make a pass at all the nooks and crannies, especially the surfaces where the bolt rotates and the bolt-face. Then wipe down the piston head on the op-rod; take note here because a lot of the carbon found here will be caked on, so don’t worry too much unless you’re doing a full cleaning. Next give the spring/buffer a few passes with the rag. Next wipe out the gas-tube as best you can but it usually doesn’t get too bad. Finally, the internal components should be wiped down along with the receiver walls/rails. If it’s possible, use the AK’s cleaning rod (if it has one it will be under the barrel, running parallel to it) to punch the bore and barrel with some cloth soaked in cleaning solution.

Now that everything has been quickly scrubbed/wiped down with the rag and cleaning/lubricating solution, we can re-assemble the rifle if we are only doing some quick maintenance/cleaning. This whole process can be relevant during a trip to the range, in a training/field exercise, or being in an operational environment. By maintaining a minimal level of maintenance like this, the AK weapons platform will serve you well, provided it is of quality to begin with.

*Originally published on NEWSREP and written by Kurt T

How to simultaneously walk and shoot like a pro

Walking and shooting is an incredibly simple task that is often made unnecessarily complicated by instructors and the general shooting community. For instructional purposes, this article will be targeting beginners — but you paper-slayers out there might learn a thing or two as well. There are a great deal of practical uses for shooting while on the move, anything from competitions to creating your own base of fire while maneuvering on a threat in a gunfight. However, to attain any level of competence at this skill, you should know how to shoot standing still first; learn the fundamentals and master them, then move on to more complex things.

The good news is that you already know how to walk, hopefully. Walking while shooting is pretty much the same thing with some minor changes. The most noticeable change is that you will be wielding a firearm, but let’s forget about that for a minute. To get started let’s imagine walking in a normal fashion down a sidewalk. Now we modify it starting from the ground up — and remember to relax a bit, don’t walk like a robot.

Beginning with the feet, you should roll from the heel to the toes with each step. Lower your center of gravity slightly by bending the knees and leaning forward a bit at the waist. This is often referred to as the combat glide, duck walk, or Groucho walk because of its similarity to how Groucho Marx would walk around with a cigar in films or how a duck heel-toes when it waddles on land. The idea here is to create a steady stride that is smooth and has as little bounce in the step as possible. The smoother, flatter the walk is, the less vertical sway there will be when a firearm is introduced into the mix.

Now that a technique has been introduced we need to establish a tempo. Many people try to time their shots between or during steps and this is a poor way to do things because it is forcing you to focus on way too many things at once. Instead pick a pace and stick to it, then take shots accordingly. Much like a tank turret, the upper body should function separately from the legs here; the upper body pivots at the waist to engage targets. Stride length can also be a factor here, shorter steps equal more stability because larger steps can create increased vertical sway of the weapon. Your stride length should be a balance and entirely dependent of the individual shooter’s body type.

Now we sling lead; simply apply the technique and practice keeping your sights on target in a steady fashion. Terrain can make things difficult depending on how uneven it is, so it’s best to practice on a flat surface first. Avoid sidestepping when possible here, keep your momentum going in the direction your toes are pointed. Just remember that this is an advanced skill and will require a good deal of practice to master. Work on doing it dry (with an unloaded firearm) and then if you can practice it somewhere safely, move on to live fire.

Featured image: U.S. Marines and Sailors perform “combat glides” while shooting during combat marksmanship training at Melissatika training area near Volos, Greece, June 10, 2009. The Marines and sailors are assigned to the 22nd Marine Expeditionary Unit. By English: Cpl. Theodore W. Ritchie [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

*Originally published on NEWSREP and written by Kurt T

How to clean your rifle like a Marine

“The deadliest weapon in the world is a Marine and his rifle.” General John Pershing, U.S. Army.

No matter what their MOS is, every Marine is a rifleman. They are all trained to effectively engage targets out to 500 meters, perform basic battlefield maneuvers, and professionally maintain the standard issue service rifle. This is one of the defining characteristics that makes the Marine Corps the world’s finest fighting force; feared and respected by our enemies and allies alike. No better friend, no worse enemy.

As a United States Marine, I will personally attest to this and as such I can tell you that we individually and institutionally perform weapons maintenance at the level of an art form. Ask any Marine and he can tell you about long hours spent at an armory table scrubbing away with essentially a toothbrush and CLP, (a brand of cleaning/lubricant that Cleans Lubricates and Protects). I will be the first to admit that the level of cleanliness we strive for is a bit obsessive and overkill, but it is honestly a good habit to have. It is one of the small details that contributes to us being able to identify as professionals in a community of warriors.

Now, hands down probably the fastest way to clean your rifle is by throwing it into a solvent tank for a bit or sticking a 20 dollar bill inside the chamber when you hand it back to your armorer. But if neither of these is an option afforded to you, there is always the good old-fashioned way of doing it yourself by hand. To really accomplish this to a better standard, a few essential tools and products need to be acquired first.

First and foremost you are going to need a cleaning solution of some form. There are a variety of brands out their but as long as it one- prevents corrosion; and two- lubricates the firearm; you are generally good to go. However you are probably going to want to stick to an established brand that’s designed specifically for firearms. I prefer some of the following:

FrogLube
Fireclean
CLP
Rem Oil
Hoppes No. 9

That being said, I have successfully lubricated weapons with motor oil, Vaseline, Aquafor, etc. I have also successfully cleaned weapons with diesel fuel, soap and water, WD-40, etc. Sometimes you have to get creative to improvise, adapt and overcome.

When it comes to tools, there are several preferred ones and kits you can buy, but this can also be very subjective to the rifle make and model. For the majority of this article, I will be referencing a kit associated to an M16/ M4 style of rifle, specifically a U.S. Military issue cleaning kit. Some universal items included or beneficial will be,

Small brush
Cleaning rag
Q-tips
Bore punch/cleaning rod
Bore brush
Eyelet

The small brush could literally be a tooth-brush or something similar in size and bristle strength. A cleaning rag could an old shirt or mechanic’s rag but can also be substituted by tissues or paper towels. Paper products often make things more difficult in my opinion. A bore punch and brush plus eyelet for cleaning a rifle bore and chamber is pretty much a standard for any service rifle cleaning kit.

What kind of operating system the rifle uses greatly dictates exactly where the carbon is deposited and build up can be seen. It should be noted that the majority of functional components are inherently going get dirty as well but at a much slower/smaller rate. To be specific, there are three primary types of operating systems that you are most likely to encounter.

Direct impingement
Gas-piston driven
Blowback

Each one has a somewhat different way of operating but an altogether near-identical function which exists to cycle the firearm reliably.

Direct impingement is the system that governs the M16/M4 rifle’s form and function. When a round is fired, the hot gases expand up into the gas block, returning the gases back to the chamber via small gas tube where the force hits the bolt carrier group (BCG) back to chamber another round. This system, while reliable and more than functional, suffers from the downfall of having those hot gases being dumped directly into the BCG where they gradually foul up the interior. That can potentially cause the firearm to cease operation. To remedy this, the firearm should be frequently maintained and treated with lubrication, this will greatly decrease the chances of a malfunction occurring.

Gas-piston is the overwhelmingly more popular design that is employed by semi automatic rifles employed around the world. It functions by having the hot gases, upon reaching the gas block, force a metal rod that is either attached to or seated against the bolt carrier group to force itself backwards, chambering the next round. As it does this, the hot gases are vented out the sides of the gas tube, where the rod sits, up near the gas block. This method of operation is incredibly clean running as a result. It also has the benefit of keeping the BCG cool due to the lack of recycled heat. The downside of gas-piston operated weapons is that all that carbon build up occurs on the piston head and they are usually heavier in the front end, so they can be slightly more fatiguing to use.

Gas blowback operated rifles are rare and, for the most part, only seen used in pistols. The HkG3 and MP5 are two iconic firearms that employ this system. Blowback uses the force of the hot gases pushing against the spent cartridge, and BCG sometimes, to cycle the firearm’s action. Pistols do not get incredibly dirty because of a very open system, but the most can be found around the chamber’s exterior and coated lightly throughout the interior. Rifles tend to see a large amount of carbon due to their system being, enclosed but you could argue the BCG does not suffer the same abuse as the direct impingement’s. It’s kind of weird happy medium between the latter two systems.

There are different levels of cleaning and maintaining a service weapon: a field strip and a detailed strip of the firearm. A field strip only requires you remove and service the main components while a detailed strip requires the entire weapon be disassembled and serviced. Each weapon is different and will have, while similar, different components that pertain to the respective level of maintenance. I find that the order of component priority can be categorized accordingly when it comes to a service rifle,

Sights and/or optics
Operating system specific components
Bolt carrier group
Bore and chamber
Main spring and essential parts
Receiver
Fire control groups
Other miscellaneous parts
Magazines

In this order a firearm can be maintained in accordance with its situational needs and restrictions.

A firearm’s sights are the difference between an effective weapon and a paperweight that makes a lot of noise. Unless it’s an extreme close quarters gunfight, you’re going to need the use of your sights. They are a professional warrior’s difference between life and death. Taking the time to inspect and maintain a rifle’s sighting system is absolutely top priority for this reason and should be done above all else. Luckily this can be done on the fly and is an easy process if nothing requires physical repair.

Your operating system’s specific components will be anything that pertains told the function and operation involving the cycling of the firearm. So the BCG, gas system parts, and barrel fall into this category and should be cleaned first and foremost to prevent future malfunctions. This is where field stripping the weapon comes into play and is a routine process for a combatant worth his salt. It is here where we scrape the heaviest deposits of carbon away and clean out the internals, hastily if the situation demands it.

The bolt carrier group is essentially the heart of a rifle and suffers from the majority of the stress, regardless of operating system. These should be disassembled and cleaned thoroughly whenever applicable. If the BCG is not maintained it could, again, result in a malfunction that cost precious seconds in a firefight. If the malfunction is bad enough, the rifle could cease operation and that takes the end-user out of the fight; that’s not good.

The barrel of a gun, while doing most of the work involving the bullet, does not usually require the upkeep that most main components do. The majority of modern service rifle barrels are built using insanely high quality steel and are coated in a corrosion-resistant substance, usually a chrome lining if it adheres to mil-spec standards but melonite, nitrite and other methods are becoming popular in the commercial market. The bore punch is the tool for the job here; using the bore brush attachment, the barrel should be initially scraped with cleaning solution. After that, the eyelet is attached and a cleaning swab is pulled through the barrel several times until the lining has reached an acceptable condition. The chamber should be scrubbed using a brush as well. A bore snake makes this whole process a lot faster, I’d add that they are definitely worth checking out.

From there you will want to wipe down all remaining components, especially the main spring and/or buffer system. The fire control group plus selector switches and magazine releases should be cleaned next. While you do these things, you may as well wipe down the inner receiver walls before reinstalling anything.

Lastly, magazines are a highly overlooked component that have to be properly maintained. The only reason this is at the bottom of the list is because it is incredibly labor-intensive to disassemble and thoroughly clean magazines in comparison to field stripping a service rifle. Ammunition must be removed and it does not need to be done as frequently, depending on your operational environment so it is at not prioritized. Nonetheless it is absolutely essential and without a properly functioning magazine, a service rifle is damned near useless.

A USGI standard issue magazine (soon to be phased out by the PMAG).

Follow these steps while considering the disclosed information here and I can guarantee, you will have a rifle that will not let you down because of negligence on your part. A Marine’s rifle is his life and without it he is useless, as the creed goes.

*Originally published on NEWSREP and written by Kurt T

How to Survive Anything: Finding water in the wilderness

In a survival situation, water is your first priority. Your stomach may be shouting at you for food, but rest assured, it’ll be fine without any for a lot longer than you can go without some hydration.

In a lot of parts of the world, water isn’t actually all that hard to find, as long as you know the right places to look.

Start by finding some high ground and listen for the sounds of running water. Sometimes it really can be just that simple.
Keep your eye out for animal tracks that converge on a trail. That’s a strong sign that the trail itself leads to a ready water source.
Head downhill. Water pools at low points between elevated areas and always flows downhill. If you’re on sloped terrain, follow it downward until you find where water may be collecting.
Use mosquitoes and other insects to guide you. They are almost always more plentiful near bodies of water.
In a jam, dig into muddy ground using a tool or your hands until the hole pools with water. You’ll want to remove as much sediment from the water as possible in your filtration process.

Just about any water source you find in the wild today will require filtration or purification before it’s safe to drink. If you don’t have any gear that can do that, check out our video on how long to boil water before its potable.