hunting dog

Conditioning Your Hunting Dog | Scents, Guns and E-Collars

So you have been conditioning your dog, and say it has been going great. At this point, the fundamentals should be well ingrained in your dog. It is better to take some extra time to ensure that your dog has the basics down before you move onto advanced training. You should have “sit” and “down” commands, leash control, voice tones, and his/her behavior in check. If your dog has developed any bad habits, now is the time for some corrective training.

Corrective training is simple. Recreate the situation that occurred and apply a corrective action. Let’s say that your dog took food off of your table when you left the room. Place some food on the table (make it easy for him to get, and something you think he wants), and walk him by that food. When he makes the decision to go for the food, apply your correction. In most cases, this would be a correction on the leash, or a strong correction command using good voice tones. Repeat this process until he understands that this is not allowed.

Scent introduction

I decided that I wanted to begin introducing my dog, Loki, to the scents that I eventually want him to hunt (grouse, pheasant, quail, and duck). I purchased some small and medium Remington retrieving dummies. I also purchased the scents that I wanted in the form of a deodorant stick. The scents also come in a liquid, but I prefer the application of a waxy stick; I find it less messy. If you or your buddies are actively hunting any of these birds, ask them to save the wings, tail feathers, or an entire bird for you.

If you remember in my previous article, I talked about using the 4-in-1 methodology for introducing scents to Loki. I have one dummy that I placed all four scents on. This is the initial dummy that I will use to introduce scents to Loki. As he becomes conditioned, I will introduce the other four dummies that each have their own scent. In doing this, Loki will be learning to look for any one of the four scents that I want him to find. They can be together, or they can alone.

A simple way to initiate this is to use a hallway, or a section of your yard, that can act as a corridor. It is important that the area you use limits his ability to get away from you. Simply place a scented dummy at the end of the hall and bring him to it. Let him discover it, and as soon as he does praise him. Allow him to bring it to you, and praise him again when he does. Grab the dummy and give your drop command (if he doesn’t naturally drop it, gently wrap his upper lips over his teeth, repeat the command, and apply gentle pressure). Once he drops it, praise him again.

Next, throw the dummy back down the hallway (this should be no more than five feet at the start) and repeat. Make sure to keep it fast and fun. Remember to stop while he is still interested. You always want to end on a high note, and he should be left wanting more. If you do this to the point he isn’t interested, then you have gone on too long.

Quick tip: If you get wings or tail feathers, prepare a large shoebox by spreading Borax (or a similar product) about an inch thick on the bottom. Then, sprinkle some Borax onto areas that have any meat left on them (remove as much meat from the wings as you can). The Borax will basically dry up any meat that is left. Place the wings/tail feathers in the box and leave them for a couple of months. If you get an entire bird, place it in a freezer until you need it for training.

Gun conditioning

I’m sure you remember the first time you heard a rifle or shotgun fire. The sound was intense, and it may have scared you. That experience will be no different for your dog. The last thing we want is to end up with a gun-shy dog. To prevent this, follow the same process as all other conditioning: a slow, planned introduction. I started with a toy cap gun. Find something that your dog loves, such as eating, and when he is doing it, simply fire your cap gun once. Repeat this process during different meals, and on different days.

If he shows no concern, then you can move on to a starter pistol. I suggest doing this one outside. Also, don’t forget to tell your neighbors what you are doing so you don’t get a visit from the police. Again, while he is eating, simply fire the starter pistol once. If he seems indifferent about the noise, try firing it while doing a different activity, such as playing in the yard. After doing this for a week or two, without Loki showing any concern, I took him out into the woods with my .22 lever-action rifle. I let him lead me down a trail, and when he was completely distracted, I fired the .22. He didn’t care. We will continue this for a while before we move onto the shotgun.

Another good indication of your dog’s readiness for gun conditioning is how he reacts to random loud noises. The 4th of July, turning on the lawn mower, or firing up loud power tools are all great indicators to see if he is ready to start. If he is skittish during these, then you aren’t ready. Don’t force gun conditioning; wait for your dog to become ready. You can overcome a gun-shy dog, but it is better to prevent it from happening in the first place.

Electronic collar

Loki and I have been doing well with leash training. I have been using Ruffwear’s Chain Reaction collar and Slackline leash (check out our detailed look at both). Using the training principles that I have outlined in previous articles, Loki has made great progress. However, he has learned that I cannot readily enforce a command if he is off-leash, and so I have decided to introduce an electronic collar.

I purchased the Wetland 425 made by Sportdog. I was able to get an incredible deal by using Promotive (for more information on getting pro deals, click here). This is an electronic collar designed for hunting dogs. It has tone, vibration, and stimulation options (up to 16 levels). It has a 500-yard range, expandable up to three dogs, and is waterproof up to 25 feet.

When the collar arrived, the first thing I did was test the various levels on my arm. In law enforcement, you have to be sprayed with OC (pepper spray) before you can use it on others. It is important to realize the pain that you can inflict so that you can more appropriately apply it. It should only be used in conjunction with proper training, and never as an arbitrary punishment device.

Every time I put this collar on Loki, I give him a treat. I wanted him to associate it with something good, and this helps with that transition. This collar has three distinct modes: audible, prick (allows stimulation for a short moment), and continuous (stimulation continues until you let go of the button). This is a great feature because it allows you to scale up or down on the correction method. When we first started using the collar, I would press the audible button as I made a correction on the leash. We repeated this for some time before I moved on. Next, when I made the correction, I pressed the prick button.

He eventually became conditioned to the process. Now I am able to make corrections without also making a leash correction. If he exhibits a behavior that I need to correct, I press the audible button, and typically this is enough for him to stop that behavior. If there is something, such as another dog, that has him so distracted that he doesn’t notice the sound, then I move onto the prick and the behavior stops. This has allowed me to start giving commands absent the leash, because I can enforce my commands from a distance.

I know that some people are against electronic collars. As long as these tools are used correctly, and in conjunction with proper training, they can be a great asset. Having conditioned Loki to the sound, the collar acts as more of a deterrent than it does as an active disciplinary measure. If you are in the market for an electronic collar, I would suggest that you look for one that has this audible feature.

Next week, I plan on taking Loki grouse hunting. It is important to remember that he is still young and that I shouldn’t place any unrealistic expectations on him. If you are taking your dog out for the first time, don’t expect him to be perfect. Instead, treat the trip as a chance for both of you to get experience working together. It is also a great idea to outfit him in something that makes him easier to see. I recently acquired a high-visibility vest from Ruffwear for Loki that I look forward to testing out.

How To Condition Your Dog (Part II)

Last time we talked about: crate training, house breaking, chewing, and traveling. So far, Loki has done remarkable well. At this point, I would officially call him house broken. He still has the odd accident, however they’re typically my fault for not following my own house breaking rules. We installed a vertical dog door from a friend, and now he can go outside on his own whenever he needs to. This was an important step because it has allowed us to leave him out of his crate at night. We still crate him during the day if we will be gone longer then 1-2 hours. A tired, sleeping dog, is far less mischievous than an alert one.

Leash

It may surprise some to learn, but not all dogs initially like being on a leash. Some find the restriction strange and will protest by simply sitting in place. Not to worry, your dog will eventually become accustomed to the restraint. Sometimes bringing a treat a long will help with this stubbornness. When starting leash work they will be under your feet constantly, making you trip, or have to stop short. During this, you can make a minor correction by pulling up on the leash and give your correction command (remember voice tones).

Quick Tip: If you are transitioning to a long-line, or your dog exhibits extreme distress from having his leash on, take him to your backyard and simply drop the leash. From the other side of the yard coax him over with some treats so that he is dragging the leash behind him. Do this for several days and he will become accustomed to the longer leash, or your normal leash.

Camping

If you were thinking about postponing a camping trip because you have a new pup, don’t. This is a great opportunity to expose your dog to the woods, other people, and potentially some other dogs. If you are lucky, you may stumble upon some wild birds, however this shouldn’t be your goal at this early stage of training. On a recent camping trip I learned that I wasn’t as prepared for the needs of Loki as I thought. You will need to pay close attention to your dog during this trip. Let him investigate, but try to keep him out of trouble. Remember your K9 First-aid Kit.

Quick Tip: I would recommend waiting until your dog is house broken before camping. It could be pretty disappointing if your dog had an accident inside your tent and you wanted to stay longer. An option that can help with this is keeping your dog in his crate at night.

Other Dogs

An important part of a dog’s socialization is exposure to other dogs. You don’t want him to be scared or aggressive towards other dogs. Initially, this is best done in a controlled environment. We have a neighbor that has an extremely well-trained German short-haired pointer. I took Loki over to his house and we were able to allow them to play while supervised. Should your dog exhibit any aggression (not playing, but actual aggressiveness) make your correction command. This is something that you will need to eliminate immediately, and should not tolerate. Your dog needs to be able to work around other dogs if you want a successful hunting dog or companion.

Whoa Command

The goal of this command is to get your dog to stop exactly where he is, without sitting. This is a great command to stop your dog while in a field, or from entering a dangerous situation. Loki is still pretty young, however there are plenty of opportunities to begin conditioning him to this command. With Loki on leash, as we prepare to leave the house I will give the whoa command, and gently pull up on the leash so that he cannot move forward. Once he stops squirming around and realizes that he cannot go anywhere, I give the come command and let him move again. I follow this will some praise to show him I am pleased with his behavior. I use this when I take him out of his crate, going into the backyard, while on walks, and any other time it can be inserted into what we are already doing.

Quick Tip: Teaching whoa is easier if the dog has NOT been taught to sit.

Retrieving

Hopefully, your dog will start to bring you “things”. When your dog brings you an item get a firm hold of the object and give your drop command while pulling the object out of his mouth. If he doesn’t drop, try gently wrapping his gums into his teeth and squeezing. Once he drops, give him praise and let him go back to what he was doing. He isn’t ready for formal retrieving training, but you should take advantage of his natural retrieving ability.

Quick Tip: Make sure to tell your family members to praise your dog when he brings them things. The last thing you want, is an annoyed family member making a correction to the very skill you eventually want your dog to use.

Loki has done extremely well with his initially training, and transition to our home. Sometimes I need to remind myself that he is still a baby and I need to be patient. It is not a race, conditioning can and will take time. Over the next month, we will continue to work on our daily conditioning. I will do some basic scent exposure, but I need to give Loki a little more time before we dive into more formal retrieving training. When we come back we will learn about dummies, dead birds, and gun conditioning.

How To Condition Your Dog

Crate Training

So you survived the first night with your pup. If you’ve decided to crate train your pup like me, odds are you didn’t sleep very well. Loki barked on and off for the majority of the night. It is important to remember your dog has most likely never slept alone, and he or she is in a new place. The most important consideration with regards to crate training is to NOT give in to his barking. If you give up in the middle of the night and let him out, he has learned if he persists long enough, he will get his way. If you stay consistent and leave him in there each night, he should slowly lessen his barking and accept he is in there until the morning.

Originally, we wanted to crate Loki in our living room. However, during these first few days the barking was so loud it was waking up our kids and we had to change our plans. Loki’s crate is now setup in a nearby bathroom. This actually turned out to be a great idea. We can close the door to reduce the noise, turn on the bathroom fan to add some white-noise for him, and it’s very close to where we want him to end up sleeping when out of the crate. Another idea to help with crate training, is to randomly leave treats inside the crate during the day. If your dog is exploring and finds his way in there on his own he will start to associate the crate with something other than jail. For Loki, it was the fourth night where he gave up barking significantly sooner, and the sixth night where I had to wake him up to take him out of the crate.

How to condition your dog — Loki super unimpressed about our crate training.

Quick Tip: Make sure the crate is just large enough for your pup to turn around – too large and he will go to the bathroom inside. Also if you add an old shirt with his towel/blanket it can help him with separation anxiety.

House Breaking

This can be an easy process or a difficult one, it is up to you. Although your pup can walk around and interact with you, you need to treat him like a baby. He hasn’t yet gained complete control of his bladder. Help him learn by giving him every opportunity to use the bathroom where you want him to. There are three major times where your pup is at an increased risk of having an accident: after eating, while excited (playing, new visitor, etc.), and after sleeping. In each of these instances you should take your pup outside and wait until he empties out.

When I first got Loki I made sure that I had a few days off work to stay with him and help him in his transition. One of the things I did was watch him until he was about to go to the bathroom inside. As he prepared to use the bathroom I made a firm correct (remember voice tones), and immediately took him outside to empty out. Once he finished outside, I praised him up and gave him a lot of affection. Praise is key here and he needs to want to go outside to earn affection. Remember, he needs your help at the beginning to know what he should or shouldn’t do. It can be frustrating when your pup has an accident but unless it happened right in front of you, there is no point trying to make a correction. Your pup cannot make the connection to something he did hours ago and your present disappointment with him.

Quick Tip: Pick up all water sources 1-2 hours before you put your pup down for the night. When you first take him out of his crate, pick him up and carry him directly outside to his bathroom area.

Chewing

There is no way to stop a pup from chewing, it’s going to happen. What we can do is lessen the impact to our gear we really care about. First, make sure you have an ample amount of chew toys for your pup, and know where they are. If you see your pup chewing on something you don’t want him to, make the correction and immediately give him one of his toys. Repeat this process every time you see him chewing on something and eventually he will understand.

Help him stay out of trouble by keeping a clean house and putting your things away. Yes it is wrong for him to chew your shoes, but why didn’t you put them away? Another preventative measure is to never make toys from old shoes, socks or anything you wouldn’t want chewed if new. Your pup will not know the difference between the old thing and the new thing and will think all instances of it are acceptable to chew on.

Quick Tip: He needs something to chew, if you won’t provide it, he will find it.

Traveling

After your pup has settled in, start taking him with you whenever possible. Since I am crate training Loki I also use the crate for travel. I have a Pick-up truck with a canopy that has venting side windows. I secure his crate in the back and he is all set for travel. Be responsible when taking your dog with you. Look for shaded areas, put the windows down, have source of water, and limit the time you leave him unattended.

Short trips around town are perfect for socialization and some modular training. Every new adult, kid or dog he meets helps shape his future temperament. Each time I place Loki into his crate I give the Kennel command, and place him inside. When I take him out of the crate I give the come command. In both instances I praise him immediately after he complies. As with all things involving your pup, consistency is paramount. Don’t say come today, and here tomorrow, it will confuse the pup.

Quick Tip: Place a treat inside the crate before bringing your pup over. He will be much more eager to go inside.

Consistency, personal responsibility, control, quality equipment, and voice tones are going to be the pillars on which you build your pups behavior. Come back next time to learn more household conditioning, and the whoa command.

Need to catch up on the series? Click here for the previous article.

Picking up your Hunting Dog Wirehair Pointing Griffon

Meeting and Training Your Hunting Dog

After all of the preparation, today is the day that you will get to meet your hunting dog. Depending on your circumstances you may be driving to the breeder, or like me, you may pick up your pup from an airport. Either way you should come prepared with water, food (amount depends on your trip), paper towels, collar, and a leash. From this point on, everything you do is conditioning your hunting dog for good or bad behavior.

I would like to formally introduce Loki, my wirehair pointing griffon. After I picked up Loki from the cargo facility at the airport (example of what to expect when shipping a dog), the first thing I did was look for somewhere I could “break” (term used to describe walking for a bathroom break and leg stretch) him. It was a long flight and I wanted to make sure that Loki had a chance to empty out, drink a little water, and most importantly, meet me. We stayed there until he went to the bathroom.

As I prepared to leave, I wanted to begin some modular training with Loki. When I got him to the back of my truck, I used the command Kennel (using the command tone) as I lifted him into his crate. You can use any command word you chose, but once chosen, you need to stay consistent and use the same word every time. He may whine and give you the “puppy-dog” look, but eventually he will realize he rides in his crate. If you break down and take him out of the crate, he will learn he can make you do things if he whines.

Once we arrived at the house, I attached his leash and collar to restrain him from running out of the crate. Once he realized he had to stay put, I then used the command come (again using the command tone), and gently pulled with my leash to lead him out of the crate. I then picked him up (don’t let puppies jump from tailgates as they could be injured) and lead him to where I wanted him to use the bathroom. We stayed there until he went to the bathroom. When finished, I made sure to praise him (using the high-happy tone) and gave him a good pat.

I cannot over emphasize the importance of using good voice tones. Every thing the dog does that pleases you needs to be praised. Conversely, anything considered overtly bad needs to be corrected. Think like a mother baby-talking her child, “good boy Loki, you went potty, good boy”. It feels silly, however your dog will understand that what he did made you happy, and that will make him happy. When making a correction remember to use the low-growling, deeper voice, “No Loki”.

Don’t overdo corrections, or negative voice tones at this point. Remember your pup is currently going through the most traumatic event(s) of his or her life. He has been separated from his siblings, mother, and everything familiar. During these first few days he needs plenty of attention and affection. Once you notice his comfort level rising you can slowly incorporate more conditioning.

Next article we are going to get more into conditioning. Specifically, daily house and yard conditioning. Unfortunately, we are going to need to wait a bit before starting bird training. Just remember, the act of conditioning successfully will only make it easier to train for birds later. In my opinion, these first few weeks are some of the most important. Don’t worry- soon you will have a hunting partner you can count on.

Quick Tip: If you leave it on the floor, your pup will chew it. Be responsible and remove situations that will force you to make corrections (example: put shoes in a closet). You are as much at fault as your pup if those shoes get chewed on. Only correct behaviors that must be stopped. If your pup is whining or doing something unpleasant that isn’t destructive, ignore him. Negative attention is still attention and it is something that he can develop into using to control you. Remember, your dog doesn’t dictate your behavior.

Need to catch up on this series? Part 1, 2, 3, 4.

Hunting Dog Behaviors and Training Principles

Before we progress further into this series, I think it’s important we go over some fundamentals. First, not all dogs are the same. Like people, they have different capacities for learning, different speeds at which they learn, and different limitations based on their genetics. Additionally, there is no single correct answer on how to train your dog. You may find success by emulating my techniques, or you may use something completely different and still have great results.

When we see behaviors in dogs they can generally be separated into two categories: genetic behavior and environmental behavior. Genetic behavior is determined by the dog’s genes, born into the dog. A dog’s potential is limited by his genetic makeup. Environmental behavior is learned through environmental conditioning. These concepts become clear when we use the courage/confidence example.

Courage is genetic while confidence is environmental. A dog lacking courage towards a situation will be unable to overcome an obstacle (slick floors, heavy underbrush, swimming, etc.), whereas a dog lacking confidence can overcome such an obstacle through slow introduction to the area (having another dog go first, use treats/rewards, etc.). It is important to identify which behavior your dog is displaying, so it can be addressed correctly.

Throughout all training/conditioning your voice tones are extremely important. Until your dog is conditioned to your command, and even after, he will surmise what you want by the tone(s) of your voice. Remember to stay consistent with these tones or you will confuse your dog. It takes a little getting used to, but with practice you will be a pro.

Command short monotone bark

Correction low growling

Permissive high to low

Praise high, happy

Agitation suspicious, whispering

I will use three training principles while training my dog: 4-1 methodology, modular training, and conflict training.

4-1 methodology is used to introduce odor to your dog. Up to four odors (this isn’t a magic number, I intend on training: duck, quail, grouse, and pheasant) are packaged (or applied) to a single training aid (tube, dummy, etc.). The dog is then conditioned to locate this object. Over time I will separate these odors into pairs, and eventually alone. I want my dog to be constantly looking for any of the four odors all the time.

Modular training is short and simple lessons which work on one facet of a finished product. This is done through hard/easy or easy/hard searches. Hard/easy (hard search, easy find) is when the dog works for a long time and when the source is found they’re rewarded quickly. Easy/hard (easy search, hard find) is when the dog works for a short period of time but must hold his position for a long time before being rewarded. This kind of training, when done correctly, helps to keep the stress low for your dog.

Conflict training is constantly changing training, so the dog doesn’t become patterned into an incorrect response. Imagine if all you ever did was train at once specific field, with only one kind of bird, and you always placed the bird in the same place. The dog would learn that a bird is always in that spot and would run straight there without actually looking for a bird as he went. Everything in your training should be conflicted, other than proper handling skills, and your trained odors.

In my K9 school, we were taught that what you allow the dog to do, is what you train the dog to do. For the dog to make the proper association, a correction or reward must be delivered within half to one second after the command. Punishing your dog eight hours after he had an accident in your house will teach him nothing. Finally, never give a command that you cannot immediately enforce, never allow the dog to disobey your command, and never repeat the command without enforcing it.

Remember, it will take time to build a good hunting partner. Don’t overdo the training initially. When you do start your training, keep it fun, fast, and most importantly stress free. This was a lot of information to cover quickly. If have any questions or want any clarifications, please feel free to comment below.

Other parts of this series: 1, 2, 3

(Featured image courtesy of bestgundogs.com)

How To Prepare For The Arrival of Your Hunting Dog

So we have selected the type of hunting dog, the breed of the dog, and the breeder. Typically at this point there will be some down time before you get your hunting dog. Depending on when you made contact with your breeder (or if there is a waiting list), you could be waiting anywhere from a few weeks, up until the next breeding cycle (perhaps a year). Not to worry, there are plenty of things that need to be done prior to your pups arrival.

Establish who in the family is going to be the master. This should be the person who will be the primary hunter in the family. Although it will be expected that the pup will listen to all family members, there should still be someone whose word should be final about the majority of the pup’s upbringing, training, and care. The master should do most of the conditioning in the beginning (bathroom training included), helping to establish a bond between the two. Remember dogs are pack animals, as are hunting dogs, and they look to find the leader whom they will follow. If there is no one to lead them, then they will act however they want. You don’t need to be mean, instead be consistent and firm throughout all aspects. Remember this should be fun.

How To Prepare For The Arrival of Your Hunting Dog — Removable day pack, harness, collar/leash from Ruffwear. (Image courtesy of Ruffwear.com)

Determine where your hunting dog will be sleeping and get that space ready. Maybe it is in the garage, office, kitchen, or in a kennel. I decided that my pup would primarily be sleeping in our living room area. I purchased a crate (metal) and have already placed it where he will be sleeping prior to his arrival. Additionally, you should also sort out the day-to-day living conditions. Will your pup have free run of a fenced yard or will he use a kennel run. Using kennels or crates should not be considered mean or cruel to the pup. As long as you are removing your pup for regular exercise and not neglecting him, this confinement does more good than harm (prevention of diseases, fighting, destruction of property etc.).

Chose a veterinarian and book your first appointment. Do some research, go to the facilities and if possible, talk to the doctor. Make sure that they can/will treat your breed (some veterinarian offices specialize or restrict the kinds of animals they will service). More often than not, your breeder will require you to have a veterinarian visit within a week of your pups arrival. Additionally, consider pet insurance. Similar to humans an emergency visit for your pup could be costly. This is preventable with a reputable pet insurance company such as Trupanion (90% coverage). There are others out there, so shop around.

Last but not least, get some gear. The above images show some of the products available from Ruffwear. I recommend taking a look at their full line-up. Your pup will need: collars, leashes, bowl (indoor and outdoor), whistle, training equipment (specific to the kind of hunting you will be doing), and whatever else you decide to spoil him with. Your pup will be too small for choke chains or electronic correction/training collars (we will address these at a later time). Focus on things that fit him snuggly, without falling off. Also, remember to check the fits often, your pup will grow fast during the first 12-18 months.

Click to view part one, or part two of this series.

(Featured image courtesy of idahohuntingdogs.com)