sniper

Perfecting your zero | A little help goes a LONG way

In the world of marksmanship, more specifically, precision rifle, there are a million different opinions on how to do things. “I’m an NRA shooter and this is how I do it”. “My grandpa fought in WW2 and he said this is the best way to do this”. “I read the blog of a guy who says he’s a Delta-Ranger-SEAL and he says to do this.” We all know those guys; the guys with more opinions than brain cells, the guys that hassle the fuck out of you and your wife at the range because he wants to have the biggest dick on the firing line. Even worse is the guy behind his keyboard, trolling the forums and articles, claiming his trusty Mosin Nagant is a sub-MOA rifle, and he regularly places in thousand yard matches. Fuck that guy. I’m going to give you a quick piece of advice here that you can take and use, or you can tell me to go eat a big bag of you know what. It’s just another tool for your toolbox.

The basis and foundation of hitting any target with your rifle is all about your zero. If you have a shit zero, you’ll have shit shots. It doesn’t matter if you’re just plinking targets with a 600$ AR or if you’re truly passionate about a precision rifle and you need sub MOA accuracy out past 600 yards. I can write an entire essay about proper fundamentals, but I want to be more specific here. So, let’s just assume that you can keep all of your bullets within about an inch of each other. When selecting your zero targets, there are a multitude of them on the market, thousands actually. You don’t need to waste your money on that nonsense. Prior to range day, I just snag some 8×10 sheets of paper from my printer and I sit down with a ruler and draw as many 1”x1” squares on the sheet as I can. Make sure that they’re about 4” apart from one another. Fill in all the squares to make them black, it doesn’t matter how you do this. Make sure that the squares are parallel to the borders of the paper so that they’re not crooked.

The key to having a dead-on zero is having the same point of aim for every single shot you take. With some of the mass-produced targets, they’ll print a big ass bullseye in the center. If you’re shooting a pistol, that’s all great and dandy, but when you’re trying to get the best shots out of your rifle, that leaves a lot of guessing room as to where your last point of aim is. You don’t want your crosshairs floating in the circle or the box (see above image), you need the smallest, most precise aiming point possible. The quote from The Patriot comes to mind, “aim small, miss small.” Human error is the largest contribution to having bad shots, so with this tip, we’re trying to eliminate all human error possible.

What I do is I take the 90-degree angle made by one of the corners of a drawn square on the sheet of paper and I match it up perfectly with the 90-degree angle made by my crosshairs (see above image). This gives me two separate reference points for my point of aim. I know that I can break the shot only when my horizontal and vertical lines are completely flush with the drawn square. When you get ready to take the shot, make sure that you are solely focused on your reticle, not the target square. You want to shoot a 5 round group, using the same point of aim every single time; this will establish where you need to move your turrets so that your point of aim, becomes your point of impact. Adjust your scope accordingly and shoot another 3 rounds. You should be shooting out the corner of the square on the paper; you’re not trying to get your rounds in the box. Once you’re dialed in, annotate the environmental data at your location and slip your scope turrets back to zero. The reason for annotating environmental data is because the temperature, elevation, barometric pressure any number of other factors will change our POI (point of impact) the next time you shoot.

I hope this article was of some use to you, and I hope that it will allow you to get the most out of your gun. Like I said earlier, this is just another method of getting your zero spot on. If you settle for a 2” group at 100 yds, you’re running the possibility of having 20” of error at 1000 yds. That’s a pretty big margin of error. Many other factors can affect your zero, such as cheap ammo, a dirty barrel, loose scope, etc, etc, etc. Give this a shot next time you hit the range and let me know your thoughts in the comments below.

The Modular Evolution Bipod: A solid choice

“The Evolution Bipod replaces, shooting sticks, multiple bipods, and heavy tripod adapters.”

Video first per usual….

The specs and features are as follows –

Removable Legs
Locking Quick Detach Attachment
20 Degree Pivoting Head with lever lock
leg Positions 0,45,90, and 125 degrees
Light Carbon Fiber Legs and Accessories
Spring Loaded Extending Legs
ADM-MFG. Tactical Locking Lever

The base options for the bipod come with a choice of legs in various lengths to include 10”-14″, 8″-11″ or 7”-10”. The height of the bipod is based on an average rifle, from ground level to the center of the bore.

I went with the 7”-10” leg option (322.99$) for use at the range on normal shooting benches. I have it mated to a KRG Bravo chassis rifle chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. The 7” height has worked perfectly on seated shooting benches with a small shot filled rear bag to adjust elevation. The weight of the Evolution Bipod in this configuration is approximately 13 oz.

There are several options for longer lengths of legs that extend to 29 inches for about $100-$127, if you want to use the bipod to sit in a stand. Additionally, the legs will attach to each other, which is a neat feature (see below). This means if you have a 10-14in leg and an 8-11in leg you can put them together for an 18 – 25in leg. Kind of nice if you want to have several of the shorter length legs that you would use more frequently, but you still get more height out of the bipod when you need it.

Two legs attached to each other to make a longer leg.

With that said, my preference would be to get the tripod adapter or trekking pole adapter if you’re getting anything longer than the 10-14 inch high legs. Both are around 49.99$ and both, to me, are significantly more versatile than the 22-29 inch legs. I also feel that, at that length, you will benefit from a more robust platform (like a tripod) for a steadier hold. The trekking pole adapter is great for long hunts when you will already be utilizing the poles. Gear that does double duty so you can leave something behind to save weight and pack room is always a bonus and appreciated on long hikes.

From the Evolution website — the Trekking Pole Adaptor:

“The Trekking pole adapters work with any trekking pole that has the 1/4″-20TPI stud on the top of the pole for camera/gopro attachment. There are two adapters in this kit. You will need a pair of trekking poles with studs to work as a standing length bipod.”

From the Evolution website — The Tripod Adapter:

“It takes just a few seconds to convert from a two-legged bi-pod to a tripod mounted shooting support with the “Tripped Out”! This tethered pin locks the bipod pivot into the adapter so the rifle will be attached to the tripod. But can be quickly and easily released by pulling the pin and reinstalling the legs.”

Photo of the base of the Bipod with legs removed. All other accessories utilize this base unit and are very quick to change and are plug and play.

The legs themselves are adjustable to 0, 45, 90, and 125 degrees. There is a button on the side that, when pushed in, allows the legs to rotate. The joints are machined very well with no burrs or hang-ups and the legs rotate very smoothly when deploying and the Bipod. It feels like a well put together piece of equipment. Once the legs are deployed and are locked down, the whole bipod is rock solid. There is no wiggle room at all – tight tolerances and great machining. Pair the bipod with a rail mount that’s bolted tight to the rifle chassis and this is an extremely solid setup that won’t wiggle around on you.

Close up of the 4 lock positions for the bipod legs. Lock up is solid with great machine work on the parts.

To make the bipod more solid when deployed. it is built with non-rotational legs so you do not have to worry about it walking on you. If you are the kind of shooter who pushes the rifle forward into the bipod, one leg won’t spin and take you off target. It is a great feature and one I appreciate.

The latch that allows removal of the bipod from the rail has a lock on it. In order to use the latch you have to depress the “safety” shown below, once that’s depressed you can then open the latch.

This is a great feature that will stop you from inadvertently catching the latch on clothing, a sling or even a branch when hunting. I am very happy to see a lock like this and it shows how well thought out this whole system is. Every small detail was thought through and solutions were integrated into the bipod.

The handle for the swivel lock that allows the bipod to swivel the rifle right or left is also well thought out. If you pull the lever straight back you can turn it without engaging the swivel lock itself. This allows you to move the handle out of the way if you’re trying to rest the bipod on a railing or branch. Another great feature and a well thought out solution.

This is a solid bipod that has all the features that I was looking for. The legs lock in very tight and the whole system is rock steady with no play in the joints. The options are great, from tripod mounts to trekking pole mounts this bipod fills many roles and can become a go-to piece of equipment for everything from hunting to precision shooting. Although the price is higher than some entry-level bipods on the market, it is on par with other high-end bipods that do not have as many features. The Evolution Bipod is worth every penny.

Scott Peeler has been shooting for over 15 years, jumping head first into the weekend competition world only recently. Due to his OCD tendencies, he can’t leave anything alone, is constantly tweaking gear and equipment and is always on a quest for that perfect hand load. In his spare time, he reviews equipment for his blog HooksandAmmo.com

US Special Operations Command’s quest for new armor-piercing sniper round

Eager to satisfy the Special Operations Command’s (SOCOM) appetite for technological innovation and improved efficiency, researchers are developing a new armor-piercing sniper round.

During the National Defense Industries Association Armaments Symposium (NDIAAS), researchers with the Crane Division of the Naval Surface Warfare Center (NAVSEA) had the opportunity to present their ideas and show the progress they’ve made on the development of these armor-piercing sniper rounds.

Their primary concerns have to do with the projectile’s cost, effect on rifle barrels, and uniformity. What they have come up with is the Aeroshell projectile. The Aeroshell uses a tungsten penetrator—similar to those used by armor-piercing projectiles like anti-tank missiles—jacketed in a polymer shell casing as opposed to the more traditional copper jacket.

NAVSEA researchers are planning to manufacture approximately 150 Aeroshell armor-piercing rounds in the following three calibers: .338 Norma Magnum, .300 Norma Magnum, and 6.5 Creedmoor. To gauge effectiveness, they will test the rounds against personal body armor at different ranges (100, 400, 800, and 1,000 meters).

The purpose of the round, according to one of the presentation slides used during the briefing, is to “provide snipers and advanced marksmen with the capability of shooting low-cost armor-piercing projectiles that will safely pass through suppressors, muzzle-brakes, and flash-hiders. [It will] greatly reduce sniper-barrel wear [and] provide all war-fighters with new ammunition that will extend barrel life and be environmentally friendly.”

Although the last point must have certainly raised some eyebrows—combat operations are probably one of the more harmful things to the environment—the statement of purpose anticipates the improved personal protection capabilities that troops of potential adversaries, such as China and Russia, may have. Hitherto, snipers have resorted to using the Barrett M107 .50 BMG sniper rifle to ensure armor-piercing results. But the M107 is an anti-material rifle and its use against anti-personnel targets is somewhat overkill.

Recently, Barrett Firearms Manufacturing won a five-year contract to produce the Advanced Sniper Rifle (ASR) for SOCOM. The award is worth approximately $50 million and is expected to be fulfilled by March 2023.

The ASR is a modular, bolt-action sniper rifle that can be outfitted with a number of different barrels, thereby adjusting its caliber according to the situation. It has an effective range of at least 1,500 meters and can be chambered in 7.62x51mm NATO, .300 Norma Magnum, or .338 Norma Magnum calibers.

NAVSEA Crane is one of the 10 command locations of the Naval Surface Warfare Center (NSWC). Alongside its sister locations, NAVSEA Crane is responsible for assessing capability gaps in the U.S. military and coming up with technological solutions.

This article was written by Stavros Atlamazoglou at NEWSREP

Feature image: (U.S. Army photo by Visual Information Specialist Jason Johnston/Released)

Precision rifle zeroing | Basics done right by Ranger sniper team leader

I’ve seen some pretty talented shooters making the same basic mistakes at the range. Over and over again, I see (and have fallen victim to) brain farts that should elude all but the most basic shooter. Screws that weren’t properly torqued coming loose in scope rings, spending far too long (and too many rounds) trying to zero, or just failing to have adequately prepared for the range day.

Former Ranger sniper team leader, owner of RocketFFL.com, MaydaySafety.com and best-selling author of “Long Range Shooting Handbook” Ryan Cleckner is renowned for his ability to impart complex shooting knowledge in easily digestible chunks. His youtube videos produced with the National Shooting Sports Foundation (NSSF) are extremely informative and offer a number of insights and shooting hacks. In the below video, Ryan walks us through a live range session while zeroing a precision rifle. Simple topic, lots of expensive wisdom being sent your way. Long video, worth the watch.

–Rex Nanorum

Sniper’s Choice | Bolt-action vs. Semi-auto precision rifles

Bolt-action vs. Semi-auto

There is an ongoing debate as to whether someone should purchase a semi-automatic rifle or a bolt-action rifle for long-range precision shooting. There are a few key variances in both which make them very different, and probably contribute to the wide divergence in opinion. Typically, the bolt-action precision rifle is considered more accurate than a semi automatic. However, this depends on numerous factors with regard to both firearm and ammunition, and modern semi-automatic rifles can be exceptionally accurate when designed with long-ranging shooting in mind. Some of the factors that precision shooters take into consideration when accuracy is discussed between the two platforms are:

Recoil
Gas release
Moving components

Recoil

The bolt-action rifle, when fired, has only one stage of recoil, this being recoil to the rear—into the shooter’s shoulder pocket. The semi-auto precision rifle, when fired, has three stages of recoil: One being to the rear as the bullet exits the muzzle, another to the rear as the bolt slams into the buffer, and the final stage as the bolt slams forward, picking up an additional cartridge. Because the bolt-action rifle has only a single stage of recoil to the rear, some shooters find they can “drive the rifle” in a superior manner to semi-automatic rifles.

Gas release

When a cartridge is fired inside the chamber of a bolt-action rifle, the force from the burning charge and expanding gases propels the bullet down the barrel. However, some of the energy is transferred to the shooter through its normal recoil. In a semi-automatic rifle, some of the energy used to propel the bullet down the barrel is used to cycle the action.

Moving components

The moving components of the two rifle platforms must also be considered. Typically, precision-rifle shooters prefer the bolt rifle simply due to its lack of moving components, and by extension, simplicity and reliability. Taking a look at the bolt rifle, the only moving part is the bolt, which is manually operated by the shooter. Once the bolt is locked, the entire rifle is merely one solid component, thus making it easier to control through recoil and avoiding bullet-impact deviation downrange due to shooter-induced movement.

The semi-automatic precision rifle will always have a moving part in some section of the rifle, this usually being in the upper and lower receiver. If you’ve ever looked through the scope while in the prone position, you may have noticed that the slightest movement with your firing or support hand causes the upper receiver to shift slightly left or right, or in some cases, up or down. This slight shift/movement within the scope may be caused by a number of factors: shooter flinch, undue sympathetic squeeze as the rifle is firing, etc.

As the shooter begins to fire or begins to perceive recoil, the shooter may cause the upper and lower receiver to shift where the two components meet, thus causing a change in desired point of impact when the rifle is fired. To the untrained or novice shooter, this may seem like a “sloppy gun,” or a rifle that is unable to achieve 1MOA.

Malfunctions

Semi automatic

As with any semi-automatic rifle or handgun, we can find an array of weapon-induced or shooter-induced malfunctions. Some of the malfunctions I have commonly seen within the semi-automatic family of precision rifles include the following:

Stovepipe: A stovepipe occurs when the casing that has been ejected is caught in the ejection port by the slide. This could be due to unburned powder, obstructions of various sorts that are placed near the ejection port not allowing the complete ejection of the spent casing, and poor-quality ammo.
Failure to extract: This results when the cartridge case remains in the chamber of the rifle. While the bolt and bolt carrier could move rearward only a short distance, more commonly the bolt and bolt carrier recoil fully to the rear, leaving the cartridge case in the chamber. A live round is then forced into the base of the cartridge case as the bolt returns in the next feed cycle. This malfunction is also one of the hardest to clear. A failure to extract could be caused by short-recoil cycles brought on by a fouled or corroded rifle chamber. A damaged extractor or a weak or broken extractor spring can also cause this malfunction.
Failure to eject: Here, a malfunction occurs when the cartridge is not ejected through the ejection port and either remains partly in the chamber or becomes jammed in the upper receiver as the bolt closes. This could be a result of carbon or fouling on the ejector spring or extractor, or from short recoil. Short recoil is usually due to a buildup of fouling in the carrier mechanism or gas tube. Resistance caused by a carbon-coated or corroded chamber can impede the extraction, and the subsequent ejection, of a cartridge.

Double feed: This malfunction occurs when a round is in the chamber and a second round attempts to feed into the chamber. This results in a true jam. On most semi-automatic weapons, the slide has a limited motion and the magazine will not eject by pressing the magazine release.
Failure to feed, chamber, or lock: A malfunction can occur when loading the rifle or during the cycle of operation. Once the magazine has been loaded into the rifle, the forward movement of the bolt carrier group could lack enough force (generated by the expansion of the action spring) to feed, chamber, or lock the bolt. Some of the causes could be the result of the following:

Excess accumulation of dirt or fouling in and around the bolt and bolt carrier.

Defective magazine (dented, bulged, or a weak magazine spring).

Improperly loaded magazine.

Defective round (projectile forced back into the cartridge case, which could result in a stubbed round or the base of the previous cartridge could be separated, leaving the remainder in the chamber).

Damaged or broken action spring.

Exterior accumulation of dirt in the lower-receiver extension.

Fouled gas tube resulting in short recoil.

A magazine resting on the ground or pushed forward could cause an improper lock.

Failure to fire: This malfunction occurs when a cartridge fails to fire despite being chambered, the trigger pulled, and the sear releasing the hammer. This occurs when the firing pin fails to strike the primer with enough force, or when the ammunition is defective. Probable causes of this malfunction include excessive carbon buildup on the firing pin, thus restricting the full forward travel of the pin, or a defective or worn firing pin. Proper inspection of the ammunition could reveal a shallow indentation or no mark on the primer, indicating a firing-pin malfunction. Cartridges that show an indentation on the primer but did not fire may indicate faulty ammunition.

Bolt action

One major benefit of having a bolt-action rifle is the lack of malfunctions they produce. Here are a some of the most common bolt-action malfunctions that I have seen over time, both shooter induced and weapon induced.

Falling firing pin: A falling firing pin occurs when the shooter closes the bolt too fast or too hard. The firing pin will not stay in the rear position, but will instead “fall forward” and move into the fired position. When this occurs, the shooter is not able to fire the rifle. The most common causes are a lack of maintenance on the bolt, dirt or buildup on the bolt face, etc.

Failure to fire: Failure to fire in a bolt gun occurs in the same manner as in the semi-automatic.

Failure to feed: A failure to feed occurs in the same manner as the semi-automatic. The problem usually occurs when the shooter bolt overrides the cartridge in the internal or external magazine.

Performance in the field

Although one rifle platform may surpass the other in certain applications or instances, we must also understand that a given platform is only a tool for a certain task, and may not be applicable in every situation. Let’s take a look at each platform’s advantages and disadvantages by discussing different situations/environments.

Multiple engagements

Precision shooters may find themselves in a multiple-target engagement situation not only in combat (defensive or offensive), but in a timed competitive event as well. As we all know, holdovers and holdunders will greatly increase our speed at getting rounds on target, but when time matters the most, the semi-automatic rifle will by far surpass the bolt rifle. The amount of time it takes to run the bolt, acquire the target, and get a proper trigger squeeze on target is greater than that of the semi, as the shooter only has to transition through targets and apply a proper trigger squeeze while utilizing the trigger reset.

Use in urban and woodland environments

In regards to the use of a precision rifle in an urban environment, speed, accuracy, and possible presentation of multiple targets plays a big role in the choosing the superior platform. While the bolt rifle may have the greater advantage in accuracy, which is commonly needed when engaging partially obscured targets at various ranges, it may lack the speed needed to engage multiple targets.

The semi-automatic rifle, while being superior in speed and engaging multiple targets, may lack the accuracy needed to engage small, partially obscured targets. This is usually due to the shooter not properly driving the rifle while in various alternate shooting positions, but it’s a consideration, notwithstanding.

Aerial platforms

As difficult in nature as aerial shooting can be, the amount of rounds used to engage a target while the shooter is airborne are typically more than three, due to the lack of a stable platform, the amount of time the shooter is actually on or able to engage the target, and proper lead needed to engage the target. This being the case, the semi-automatic rifle surpasses the bolt-action.

*Featured image courtesy of DVIDS

Ranger sniper discusses getting on the rifle

One of the best sayings I heard as a Ranger was, “the experts don’t have a bunch of secret knowledge, they’ve just mastered the basics”. Mastering your standard shooting positions, trigger control and sight alignment are the vast majority of what is needed to shoot precisely. Every now and then, former Ranger sniper team-leader Ryan Cleckner (and the National Shooting Sports Foundation) release a video covering one of the fundamental elements of shooting in great detail.

This lesson we’re covering walks us through getting set in the prone position. At its most simple, this is just laying down and snuggling up to the rifle, right? Cleckner has some tips regarding making your prone position the most comfortable, stable and consistent shooting platform possible.

For more information on Ryan Cleckner, try Cleckner.co, MaydaySafety.com or the Long Range Shooting Handbook.

–Rex Nanorum

@rexnanorum