AK-47

How To Choose A Rifle Scope: The only guide you’ll need to read

Finding the right scope is like running through a maze, you don’t know WHERE you’re going. Couple that with the countless landmines of confusing technical jargon, specs, acronyms — and you might be in the maze for LIFE.

Not good.

That’s why I wrote this article — to help serve as a guide through the scope maze. In fact: This will be the LAST guide you’ll ever have to read to find the right scope…for YOU.

Let’s dig in!

Magnification

This is the part 99% of people screw up on. They either buy TOO much magnification or too little — ESPECIALLY when buying the best AR-15 rifle scope. Rest assured — you won’t make that mistake after reading this. So, let’s first start off by defining magnification.

Magnification is how much closer you can see the target than a naked eye.

For example, if the magnification is 2X that means you can see TWO TIMES closer than the naked eye. Easy enough?

So…

How Do You Find Magnification?

It’s usually the first number (or range of numbers) on a scope. For example: if a scope says 3×32… then the first number (‘3’) is the magnification. However, if it says 2-7×32… then the first range of numbers (2-7) is the magnification. In other words: you can choose a magnification between 2-7X. Because of this, there are actually two scope types:

Fixed power scope
Variable power scope.

Fixed power scope means there’s only 1 magnification (Ex: 3X), while variable allows you to choose from a range of magnifications (Ex: 2-7X).

Easy, right? But…which should you choose?

Fixed Power vs Variable Power

That depends on your use. If you require more than one magnification, then go for the variable. However, fixed power scopes are faster, higher quality, and cost less. So, keep that in mind when you’re choosing your scope. Don’t worry about making a decision now — we’ll touch on that in just a bit. But for now, let’s answer the lingering question that we left unanswered:

**How Much Magnification Do You Need?**

This is HIGHLY dependent on your rifle usage. If you use your rifle primarily for small game or homestead defense (>100 yards), then go for a magnification between 1 – 4x. Pro Tip: Go for a fixed power scope. It’ll make your short-range encounters faster.

However, if you use your rifle primarily for hunting large game in forests or mountains (>200 yards), then go for a magnification between 5 – 8x. Or, if you’re a sniper that hunts in fields or deserts (200+ yards), then go for a magnification between 9 – 12x. Simple enough, right? Now that you have your magnification, the next thing to find is the right…

Objective Lens

The objective lens is the lens at the end of the scope. The size of the objective lens is usually found at the END of the numbers (or after the x). For example: 3x32 means it has a 32mm objective lens. What about if it’s a variable scope? Same thing.

For example: 2-7x35 means it has a 35mm objective lens.

Understood? Cool. So…

WHY Is Objective Lens Important?

In layman’s terms: The more objective lens you have, the clearer and brighter your scope will look. However, it does come at a costly price. Larger objective lenses mean smaller scope rings, a heavier scope, and it may even give away your position due to the reflection of sunlight off the lens. So be careful.

With that said…

How Much Objective Lens Do You Need?

If you hunt in close range (>100 yards) with low recoil, go for 28mm & under.

If you hunt in medium to long range (150+ yards) with medium recoil, go for 30-44mm. (Also great for low-light hunters.)

And finally, if you’re solely a long range shooter, then go for 50mm & up objective lens.

With your magnification and objective lens in hand, now it’s time to talk…

Rifle Scope Lens Coatings

This is usually the second feature advertised. It may come packaged in fancy names, however ALL rifle coats fall under one of these criteria:

Coated: They cover at least one surface of the scope in one layer. The budget man’s package.
Fully-Coated: They cover ALL external glass surfaces in a single layer. The standard package.
Multicoated: They cover at least one surface in several layers. The upgraded package.
Fully Multicoated: They pamper ALL your scope’s external glass surfaces in several layers. The luxury package.

Which Rifle Coat Should You Choose?

Most scopes today are fully multi-coated. In fact: Over 90% of the scopes I’ve reviewed on my site so far are fully multi-coated. And if it’s not fully multi-coated, don’t sweat it — coats don’t make up for poor glass quality. However, something you DO have to sweat is…

Scope Reticles

The reticle is the crosshair (or the aiming point) you see. This will either make shooting easier or harder.

Here’s the best reticle to choose based on your use:

Duplex

If you’re a hunter or target shooter, go for a Duplex. It’s the simplest and fastest reticle to use.

Mildot

If what you’re shooting is a life and death situation (like the Military), go for a Mildot. It helps estimate target’s distance.

BDC

This is for the long-range shooter. Sure, it takes longer to use, however it helps adjust for bullet drop. Insanely useful for long distance shots.

But which to choose? If you hypothetically put a gun to my head (please don’t) and said: “Choose a reticle or die!” I’d honestly go for the Duplex. It’s easy, fast, and it plain up WORKS. But don’t take my word for it. Instead, test all these reticles and see which one you like best. The best reticle is the one YOU prefer.

With that said, it’s time to talk…

Focal Planes

This is the most common scope question I get asked: “Should I choose the First Focal Plane or Second Focal Plane?”

Here’s the straight up answer: go for second focal plane. Here’s why: For most general situations, the second focal plane works better. It’s cheaper and doesn’t obscure your view while the first focal plane does. That said, should you ever go with first focal plane? In only one condition: If you’re a long-range shooter (10X+ magnification).

The reason? It’s more accurate as the reticle size adjusts as you move up in magnification. Yet for most general situations, go for a second focal plane. It won’t disappoint. Once you’ve got your focal plane selected, it’s now time to discuss adjustment systems…

Minute of Angle (MOA) vs Milradian (MRAD)

To be completely honest, this part doesn’t matter much, but I’ll cover it anyway. So, which adjustment system is better: MOA vs MRAD? The straight up answer? Neither.

In fact, they operate interchangeably like miles per hour and kilometers per hour. Just choose an adjustment system your hunting buddies use. If you don’t know what your buddies use, just opt-in for MOA. It’s easier and more popular. Simple.

Let’s move onto…

Parallax

Parallax is bad. It happens when your scope’s reticle kind of bobs around with your head movement. Not good. If left unchecked, it can lead to bluriness, fuzziness, and missed shots. You want as LITTLE of parallax as possible for maximum accuracy.

The good news? There’s a way to…

Kill Parallax

This is dependent on the scope (and cheekweld). Scopes usually correct parallax in one of three ways:

Factory-Set. Parallax adjustment is built-in the scope by the manufacturer. This will be advertised.
Adjustable Objective (AO). This corrects parallax through a ring on the objective lens.
Third Turret. Move this knob to correct the parallax.

With that said, which option is best? They all do their job. Obviously the factory-set will be the easiest, but don’t worry about it too much. Only look at parallax adjustment as a tiebreaker between scopes. Speaking of tiebreakers, there’s one core feature that breaks all ties…

Windage and Elevation Turrets

This is by FAR the most important part. Actually, if these knobs (turrets) don’t work, you WON’T be able to zero your scope properly. In other words: You won’t be able to shoot JACK–So it matters. Here’s what you’ve got to know about windage and elevation:

First, make sure the turrets produce a loud “click” sound when they adjust. That way you know when you’ve adjusted. This is usually mentioned in the reviews.

Second, make sure the turrets are reliable. Don’t listen to the advertisers. Instead, read what people say about the turrets’ reliability.

Once you’ve done that, you’ll have found reliable windage and elevation turrets. Now, it’s time for the last important feature…

Eye Relief

Do this part wrong and you’ll look like Mad Eye Moody from Harry Potter. Do you want to look like him? I hope not. (If you do, you’ve got bigger problems than scopes).

Here’s how to save your eye (and comfort) from pain with proper eye relief. Let’s start off by defining eye relief: Eye relief is the distance between your eye and the lens you look through (ocular lens). If your weapon is higher recoil, you’ll need more eye relief. And vice versa for lower recoil.

In short: Aim for at least 3.5 – 4 inches of solid eye relief. Simple enough. With that, you now know EXACTLY what makes a good scope. But the million dollar question remains…

How Much Should You Spend On A Scope?

Here’s the ugly truth: It depends. You can be spending anywhere from $50 up to $1,000+. There’s really no ‘optimal’ amount to spend on a scope. Why? It’s HIGHLY dependent on your rifle, caliber, and usage. But you now know what makes the very best scope. The next part is easy:

Find The Scope That Calls Out To You

Yes, it’s true… you’re going to have to do a BIT of Googling before finding the right scope for you. That’s part of the process. Alternatively, if you’re having trouble finding the right scope for your rifle, visit my site: Scopes Field.

I’ve actually reviewed (and hand-tested) scopes for almost EVERY major rifle and calibers (like the Mini 14). So if you’re having problems finding a good rifle scope, then feel free to stop by for some tips.

And there you go! You’re now fully armed with EVERYTHING you need to know about choosing a rifle scope. Now go out there and buy yourself a great scope!

Feature image: U.S. Marine Corps photo by Lance Cpl. Alexis B. Betances

Author Bio:

Richard Douglas is a scopes expert with over 10 years of hands-on experience and has been featured on Burris Optics, War History Online and more. No wonder his friends call him the “James Bond of Scopes.” Richard now spends most of his time reviewing scopes and sharing his exclusive findings on his blog, Scopes Field.

Choosing between the AR-15 and the AK-47

The debate between AK-47s and AR-15s is perhaps a bit more civil than the digital spats between the likes of Glock fanboys and 1911 historians in your Facebook newsfeed, but there are certainly some similarities. Arguments about stopping power, reliability, and accuracy get touted about by both sides in such generalized and exaggerated ways that one could be forgiven for thinking no AK platform in the world has ever malfunctioned and every AR-15 is a sniper rifle. Of course, the fact of the matter is, both platforms are made by a variety of manufacturers and in a variety of different set ups; some more reliable, more accurate, or more affordable than others.

I’ve gone on record in the past as saying the warring factions of the firearm world, like the automotive one, miss the forest for the trees when ranting at one another in forums and on Twitter. There are lots of great, budget friendly 1911 platforms available out there, and there are lots of solid shooting Glocks out there too. There’s nothing wrong with having a preference, but in our modern upvote/downvote culture, we seem to think liking one thing means having to hate the other… as though the solid reliability of your Glock in some way diminishes the accuracy of its competition in the 1911 camp. In truth, they can both be great guns, and if you’re not able to see that… you may be being guided by the team dynamic, rather than the facts.

I bought my AR-15 years ago at Wal-Mart along with a six pack of beer and a few hundred rounds of ammunition. At the time, it bore a striking resemblance the rifle my father carried in Vietnam, but there was no denying the familiar comfort that set in as a slung it over my shoulder and found my hands settling on the pistol grip in the same way I spent so many hours standing around in uniform. It was like visiting my old home town and finding everything just where it had been.

To this day, I still get that same sense of coming home when I hang that rifle over my shoulders. It’s changed a bit since that day years ago, and now looks and acts a lot more like the rifle Uncle Sam loaned me. Each time I remove it from the safe and do my usual tinkering or maintenance, I feel a connection to a younger me – one that saw a rifle as a companion as much as a tool.

Still seems like a totally normal way to spend an afternoon to me.

My AK-47, however, was the product of a chance meeting and a good deal. I had fired a few AK-47 platforms before, but not extensively, and in contrast to the AR I bought years ago, it was my unfamiliarity, rather than history with the platform, that prompted me to buy it. I looked forward to the challenge of learning how it functions, how to care for it, and of course, how to mess with it until it was uniquely my own. A new project, I told myself, and nothing more.

I was wrong. I love the damn thing.

While I left to serve in the Marine Corps, my older brother continued working in racing, eventually finding himself behind the wheel in a number of races before starting his own business. His budgets are bigger and interests are different, but his approach to cars is very much like my approach to guns: tailor each to a purpose, and you could always use one more. I spent some time driving and then shooting with him recently, and I realized that the AK and AR platforms are similar to two of his cars: the Dodge Charger Hellcat and the Dodge Viper SRT-10.

At first glance, I don’t see why you’d need both. At 505 and 707 horsepower respectively, they’re both scary fast, plenty loud, draw a crowd and rarely turn up on the losing side of a race. To the uninitiated, one certainly seems enough… but when you look more closely, you see that each is designed for variations within that “go fast” purpose. The Viper will tear the Hellcat to pieces in the twisties, the Hellcat will roar to victory in a drag race.

It’s all about picking the right tool for the job, but if the job is just going out to have some fun, it’s all about picking the one that best suits your preferences.

My AR-15 feels like a precision weapon. It’s crisp, light enough, it talks to me through its behavior and, if I’m honest, occasionally gets in moods. The rifle exudes the confidence we’ve developed together: I know I can hit a target at 500 yards with iron sights with my AR because I’ve done it plenty of times. It’s hard not to develop an attachment to something like that.

In contrast to the AR, my American made RAS-47 feels like a tractor. It clunks and clinks as it releases rounds with little more recoil, but a noticeable difference in tone from the barrel, as it’s simple mechanics lumber away inside the pressed steel body. When I run and gun with the AR, I feel like a precision instrument. When I do the same with the AK, I feel like I’m throwing hammers at the target – and I freakin’ love it.

These two rifles, while similar in purpose, vary widely when it comes to execution. The AR, like a Viper, gives you a sense of confidence and poise. The AK, like a Hellcat, gives you this sense of primordial power: like that concrete wall doesn’t mean shit to me, I’ll just go straight through it.

One could argue that there are distinct advantages to each platform, and by and large, there are – but with so much variety on the market, your reliability and accuracy (often the two biggest talking points involved in this debate) are really just a matter of your budget. Both platforms are capable of being incredibly accurate as well as reliable.

Picking a favorite, then, really comes down to shooter’s preference. Some will be drawn to the comfort of the familiar, others will succumb to the allure of simplicity and cheap ammo… but the fact of the matter is, neither is a bad choice.

My recommendation? Get them both if you can. You never know when you might be in the mood to throw some hammers..

Images courtesy of the author

The RECCE Rifle: Originally Developed for the SEAL Teams

Reconnaissance teams of all different origins have always been centered around the ability to be a minimalist, highly maneuverable element that can discreetly observe and report on the enemy, providing valuable intelligence for command elements that often dictates when and where the fight takes place. With this mission comes the desire for lightweight and versatile equipment when applicable or available. This philosophy extends to many facets of reconnaissance but one that stands out the most is the rifle these individuals or teams select. There have been many stages in the evolution of the recce rifle over time and while I will touch on these variants briefly, my primary topic will be on the rifle as it is most commonly setup today.

The original Recce Rifle was developed through the Naval Surface Warfare Center’s Crane Division in an effort to provide SEAL snipers with a lightweight semi-automatic weapon that possessed greater lethality than the M4 carbine but at the same time was far more versatile than the current precision rifle options at hand such as the M14 or even, later, the M110. What they came up with is commonly known as the Mk12 MOD 1 and MOD 0 SPR (special purpose rifle), essentially an accurized M16A4 and for its time and purpose served the operators who carried it well; for that matter, it is still in use today. It can be argued that many other rifles such as the M14 EBR, M110, SR25, and AR10 are similar in nature, almost a big brother category; but they are not the same given their weight and caliber. The Recce Rifle today has changed quite a bit and given that there really aren’t any real specific guidelines to classify the rifle as such, it comes in many versions but generally speaking, has some specific characteristics.

Ukrainian Recon team members participate in a sniper course.

Optics wise a variable power is the current preferred choice, usually a 1-6 power but recently the introduction of 1-8 powers has started a new trend as well. The rifle pictured is outfitted with a Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6×24, a low-cost, budget-friendly optic but very much a viable option. Many of these optics are outfitted with BDC (bullet drop compensating) reticles that account for set distances, usually in 100-meter increments, and give the shooter a means to measure targets distance using size for reference. While first focal planes are a great here and are generally of a higher quality production, also higher cost, they are not necessary with the addition of an offset red dot optic. This allows the shooter to leave the second focal plane variable power optic on its maximum magnification and simply can’t (tilt) the rifle to utilize the red dot for close quarters engagements. This same technique can be applied to FFP optics of course but they do not suffer from the same detriment as the SFPs.

Barrel profile is a subject of constant debate but what I can say is a Recce Rifle should ideally have a 16″-18″ barrel length for optimum performance; in my personal opinion, a 16″ barrel with a mid-length gas system is perfect though. I choose an enhanced lightweight profile but a standard profile would be fine too; heavy barrels are overkill given the rifle is not designed to be used for extended periods of heavy sustained rates of fire and that its purpose is to be lightweight for long-range reconnaissance patrols and such. I believe the mid-length gas system is an excellent choice because the rifle should be precise and stable especially for mid-range to long-distance shots; a carbine length gas system, while very reliable, produces more recoil than the mid.

A Ukrainian soldiers Recce style modified RPK-74.

A free floated rail system is also desirable to achieve the necessary level of accuracy expected of a Recce rifle, generally, a key mod or m-lok based model would be desired as well for the simple fact of keeping the weight down as much as possible or reasonable. An adjustable stock is a good option as well for versatility when shooting depending on equipment, terrain, and position. I advocate flash hiders almost exclusively because of the smaller signature but compensators can give the shooter an edge in marksmanship so that’s a user preference option. Lastly, a good sling, magazines, and trigger are what you want; everything else like lights, lasers, night vision, and ammunition type are mission dependent so make your own decision there. No doubt will current shooting and combat trends continue to change with the times and technology but as long as it gets the job done then that’s all that matters in my mind.

Yankee Hill Machine Backup Iron Sights

With the quality of primary optics being at an all time high, I’ve noticed a trend of many shooters skipping back-up iron sights (BUIS) on their primary fighting rifle. I feel that if a gun is to be used for more than competition or as a range toy, BUIS are still a critical component to have. I was able to get my hands on a set of Yankee Hill Machine’s (YHM) HK styled front and rear quick deploy sights (QDS) to see how they held up.

These BUIS’s are made from solid aluminum and are hardcoat anodized in matte black. They are a scant .435 tall when folded. They lock when up or down, with a small button on the left side (or port side for you squids) unlocking spring-loaded deployment. The front sight is adjusted for elevation using a standard A2 front sight tool. The rear sight is adjusted for windage by twisting the knob on the right side. While the front sight has the HK “hooded” design, this set of BUIS’s differs from traditional HK sights by moving away from the “diopter drum” rear sight. Much has been made by internet commandos on how this setup being used by YHM isn’t functional without a rear diopter, the argument being that without a fixed front post being centered in the rear sight, the eye won’t naturally center the post in the circular sight picture provided by the rear sight. I call BS! In using the YHM sights, I found them to be perfectly functional. More on that after this picture.

Sight picture YHM BUIS. Photo by Rex Nanorum

Take a look at the sight picture there: Sure it’s hard to get the camera to duplicate what the eye sees, but you can use that for reference. The circle of the front is centered naturally with the circle of the rear sight. Minor adjustments for elevation can be made by adjusting point-of-aim slightly while keeping the circles lined up. With that out-of-the-way, I can say the BUIS’s I have here are solid. They spring right into place and lock up tight. Zeroing was easy and they’ve held zero just fine during a number of range trips. Adjustment clicks are crisp and tight. These don’t feel flimsy or weak in any particular area. I’ve actually taken off the primary optic (a red dot of middlin’ quality) and am using these irons for deer hunting.

As fate would have it, I was finishing up a near-ish Honey Badger clone when I came across these and the YHM’s hooded front sight fit in nicely with the intended aesthetic. From a functional standpoint, these have performed very well. Most of my experience with flip-up BUIS’s has been with the ubiquitously common plastic ones. These feel very solid in comparison. These run $218 on the yhm.net website and $184 on midwayusa. These are good irons and I’ll keep banging away with them on my primary rifle. As always, if I get more pertinent info on them (such as failure due to engineering flaw) I’ll post an update.

ShotStop Develops Bulletproof Backpack Insert that Stops the Infamous AR-15

Stow, Ohio, USA, May 1, 2018 – Following the February 2018 school shooting in Parkland, Florida, that left 17 dead, bulletproof backpacks and backpack inserts received a lot of attention across the country. But, the question that always came up was, “Will it stop an AR-15?” (The gun used in the Parkland shooting and in most mass shootings in recent history.) And, at the time, the answer was almost always, “No.”

“Nearly every time we talked with someone – whether it was a concerned parent or a news reporter – the question about AR-15 came up,” said Jason Henkel, Director of Operations at ShotStop® Ballistics in Stow, Ohio. “It really bothered us that there wasn’t a truly lightweight option out there that would defeat a shot fired from an AR-15 or AK-47.”

ShotStop immediately began to focus on developing a solution that would ultimately keep kids safer in school, in public places, and in other areas where a potential threat may arise. And, in just over two months ShotStop has developed the lightest, thinnest, and strongest bulletproof backpack insert in the world.

Under Two Pounds and a Half-Inch Thick…and Stops AR-15

ShotStop is always driven to do more than what’s expected, and its new BallisticBoard backpack insert is no different. Utilizing ShotStop’s patented Duritium® technology, it is the world’s first rigid bulletproof backpack insert that stops the AR-15 and AK-47, weighs less than two pounds, and is around a half-inch thick. It’s called the SSB-III-RA and retails for $299-349.

“There are other protective inserts out there,” explained Henkel. “But there’s nothing like our new BallisticBoard inserts. Absolutely nothing!”

To ensure access to as many people as possible, ShotStop also developed a slightly heavier version called the SSB-III-RA2, which weighs a little more than 3.5 pounds and is just 0.9 inches thick. The RA2 comes in around $200. At that price, it’s the least expensive bulletproof backpack insert under 4 pounds.

Civilian Body Armor Becomes “Normal”

While 100 percent of parents would say they would rather not send their child to school with a bulletproof backpack, that same 100 percent would absolutely agree that they would do just about anything to keep their children safe – at school or wherever they may be.

In the wake of the shooting at Parkland’s Marjory Stoneman Douglas High School, the idea of putting a bulletproof insert into a student’s backpack became commonplace as parents scrambled to respond to concerns about school safety. A few days after the Parkland shooting, one father in Ohio had decided to place a ShotStop soft bulletproof insert into his son’s backpack, and the next day a would-be-shooter happened to walk into Jackson Township High School where his boy attends. Luckily the threat was avoided that day, but parents began to have second thoughts about the safety of their kids in schools.

Several New Developments in School Safety

Several school districts have reached out to ShotStop and are considering purchasing the backpack inserts as a school asset to assign out to students at the beginning of the school year for return at the end of the year.
ShotStop is in talks with a school safety-consulting group about how it can use ShotStop’s BallisticBoard material to convert standard school equipment – desks, bookshelves, doors – into bulletproof items to use as cover in an active shooter situation.
BallisticBoard inserts also fit in computer bags and purses, not just in backpacks.

“The goal at ShotStop has always been to save more lives,” said Henkel. “And while we didn’t start out thinking we’d be making bulletproof backpack inserts, the unfortunate truth in today’s world is that a product like this is needed and parents are asking for it.”

Find out more at http://www.ShotStop.com/ballisticboard, or call 800-986-0795 or 1-330-686-0020.

About ShotStop Ballistics

U.S.-based ShotStop Ballistics is developing the lightest, thinnest, and strongest advanced armor technologies in the world. From body armor plates and armored vehicle protection, to its innovative BallisticBoard® material and custom armor solutions, ShotStop Ballistics is leading the way in improving the protection of our police, military, special forces, S.W.A.T., security personnel, and more. With technical expertise that spans more than 35 years (see Vallmar Engineering), the ShotStop team brings together engineers, Ph.D.’s, chemists, product developers, and ballistic specialists, to create ballistic technology that saves lives, reduces physical encumbrance, and maximizes performance. ShotStop consistently uses independent and federally accredited ballistic labs, including the Department of Defense and National Institute of Justice, to ensure ShotStop armor provides our servicemen and women with the best possible protection. Contact ShotStop Ballistics at www.ShotStop.com, call 800-986-0795/1-330-686-0020, email [email protected], or write to 1000 Campus Dr., Suite 300, Stow, Ohio 44262.

AK-47 Accuracy and Reliability

Before the price gouging of weapons, while I was stationed at Ft. Benning GA, I purchased an AK-47 (Romanian) at a local dealership for $174.00. I wanted an AK-47 after a few deployments to Iraq and Afghanistan, everyone in those areas of operations had one and it seemed to serve its purpose for them just fine. I’m sure we’ve all heard the rumors about how reliable and accurate they are, but just how true are they? I must say, I’ve seen a plethora of AK’s pulled off of targets and personnel that were in really bad condition, some appeared as if they hadn’t been cleaned in at least 10 years and they shot just fine. As far as their reliability, I’m not sure, after all the guys we were fighting didn’t necessarily aim them. I wanted to see just how accurate these rifles truly were and exactly what they can withstand and why.

Accuracy

As we know, the AK-47 is not the most accurate weapon when compared to other assault rifles, such as the M4/AR-15, why is that and exactly how accurate is the AK. I’ve been shooting my AK-47 for around 7 years now and put over 35,000 rounds through it. The accuracy of the AK when I first took it out of the box was a steady 4.73 MOA rifle. Though over time, I’ve seen changes in its accuracy as I am now only capable of holding a 5.8-inch group at 100 yards. This is more than likely due to poor maintenance which I did intentionally to test reliability. When compared to the accuracy of the M4, this may seem bad to some, especially when a standard M4 can easily hold a 3-inch group at 100 yards.

I’d have to credit the AK’s lack of accuracy to its “functioning” and the projectiles ballistic coefficient. The AK-47 is made up of only a few “moving” parts. Though there are fewer parts, these parts are made up of large chunks of metal. Take the bolt for example once fired. The hunk of metal that unlocks and flies back once fired is pretty heavy when compared to the M4. As it rides the railing and slams to the back, the weapons harmonics are disturbed significantly, take a look at a few videos of the AK-47 fired in slow motion and note the amount of barrel whip. You may also find a decrease in accuracy due to the fact that the rifle’s handguard is made up of wood. Wood has a notorious tendency to bend, tighten, and loosen under temperature changes. For example, in the summertime, the doors within your home may become harder to open and close because wood expands and shrinks when hot. This shrinking and expansion of the wood handguard, though minuet, changes the harmonics of the barrel.

Another reason I believe the weapon lacks in accuracy is due to the projectiles harmonics. The 5.56 has a G7 ballistic coefficient of ≈0.304 while the 7.62×39 (123 gr) has a coefficient of ≈0.275. The lack of its ability to overcome air resistance in flight is also another reason why the rifle is “less accurate”.

Reliability

With my personal AK-47, I’ve put it through a variety of test since I purchased it. With all of the rounds fired, the environments that it’s been exposed to, I have only cleaned it 5 times. It has seen the desert, mud, cold, extreme heat (109+ degrees Fahrenheit), rain, snow, etc. With all of that being said, I have only seen only 6, I emphasize 6 malfunctions, which were all failures to feed. Why is that?

I believe this is completely due to the weapons design and function. The fact that there are fewer parts needed to operate the weapon, there are fewer parts to get obscured by any foreign objects such as dirt, mud, etc. The debris simply falls out of the rifle, or they are disturbed so much that they simply maneuver away from the critical mechanisms needed to fire the weapon. This is a “crude” weapon, its suppose to be, there is a reason why our enemies continue to use this weapon system. The next time you have a chance, disassemble your AK and compare it to an M4, note the open spaces in the trigger mechanism and the designs of the bolt, just picture how debris would and can maneuver in each platform.

Afghan Local Police recruits gather around AK47 rifles for a safety brief before beginning a dry-fire range class in Nawbahar district, Zabul province, Afghanistan, March 24. The class is part of a three-week course that teaches ALP candidates basic policing procedures, weapons handling and other skills necessary to protect and defend Afghan citizens.

Specifications

Action: Gas-operated, rotating bolt
Rate of fire: Cyclic rate of fire is 600 rounds/min
Semi Auto : 40 rounds/ min
Muzzle velocity: 715 m/s (2,350 ft/s)
Effective range: 350 meters (380 yd)….. I’d beg to differ and push it out to 480 on a silhouette target.
Feed system: Standard magazine capacity is 30 rounds. There are also 10, 20, 40, 75, and 100
round detachable box and drum style magazines.

*Photos courtesy of DVIDS